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ANNT 120W light bar review

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  • ANNT 120W light bar review

    Light bars are a dime a dozen, but with a market flooded with cheap products, we often see light bars underperform and face quality control issues. High end products are available, but they're very expensive. Thankfully, competition also means that cheaper products are getting better and better.



    Details:
    The ANNT 24” 120W light bar has 40 LEDs, 24 30 degree spot optics and 16 60 degree flood optics, and is IP67 water resistant. The dimensions are 24” x 3” x 5.44” and the weight is 7.7 lbs. The rated current draw is 16 amps at 12 volts. At the time of writing this review, the light bar was priced at around $40.

    Link: http://amzn.com/B00HNP91VO

    Build quality:
    The build quality of this light bar is pretty exceptional. The entire thing is made out of metal save for the lens, and the powerdercoating is excellent. It’s both pretty and tough. The rear fins are well made and there seem to be no defects.



    The mounting hardware is very nice as well. The two brackets have notches that lock in place like gears when you tighten the bolts so the bar can’t shift, and it even comes with rubber insulators that go between the bracket and where you’re mounting to prevent vibrations.



    The wiring harness coming out is encased in thick insulation. Unfortunately, the ends are just spades rather than using a fairly standard 9006 connector like other lighting products do. Soldering/splicing one on is easy, but a make 9006 connector would have been nice.

    Output:
    For the price point, I think the output is pretty great. The light bar lights up the entire road very well, and though it’s lacking in sheer distance (the spot optics aren’t as narrow as I’d like), the beam is very wide and fairly even.

    Compared to the hotspot a good set of 35W HIDs, the ANNT light bar can’t compete. But as supplementary lighting, it’s actually quite good. It lights up more of the road than high beams do, though distance is limited.

    The color of the light is a very neutral white. It actually doesn’t produce the characteristic blue tint of most cheaper LEDs, and it’s easy on the eyes. It also doesn’t overheat and drop dramatically in output, which is nice.

    All of these photos are taken exposure locked, with one photo showing the approximate view without light. This set is at about 25 feet of distance

    Darkness:



    LED reverse lights (2003 Toyota MR2 Spyder housings with P/R Hybrid white 7440 LEDs):



    Mini 6 LED light bar:



    ANNT light bar:



    Now for underexposed photos:

    Reverse lights:



    Mini light bar:



    ANNT light bar:



    This next set of photos is at about 145 feet.

    Darkness:



    Reverse lights:



    Mini light bar:



    ANNT light bar:



    Underexposed now.

    Reverse lights:



    Mini light bar:



    ANNT light bar:



    This next set is at ~32 feet.

    Darkness:



    Reverse lights:



    Mini light bar:



    ANNT light bar:



    Underexposed now.

    Reverse lights:



    Mini light bar:



    ANNT light bar:



    This next set is at ~32 feet, but with headlights rather than other light bars.

    Darkness:



    HIDs in Toyota halogen projectors:



    HIDs + high beam:



    HIDs + ANNT light bar:



    Underexposed.

    HIDs:



    HIDs + high beam:



    HIDs + ANNT light bar:



    This last set is at 140 feet.

    Darkness:



    HIDs:



    HIDs + high beam:



    HIDs + ANNT light bar:



    ANNT light bar (to be completely fair, part of it was blocked by the side of the car):



    Underexposed now.

    HIDs:



    HIDs + high beam:



    HIDs + ANNT light bar:



    Conclusion:
    For the price tag, it’s a great light bar. Not only is it very well built, but it also provides some great lighting for dark areas and especially off road. The focus on width and flood lighting makes this bar adept for lower speeds. Plus, it can always be used to flash that jerk with the PNP HIDs ahead of you.

    2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder
    2017 Lexus CT200h F Sport

  • #2
    Nice write up. For $40 that ANNT bad

    Comment


    • #3
      How many amps does it actually draw at what voltage?
      2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'
      1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4E 'mom-mobile'

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks Pklemm! Good pun, I wish I thought of that.

        Bitter If you tell me how to check this info, I can check this info for you.

        2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder
        2017 Lexus CT200h F Sport

        Comment


        • #5
          Put a multimeter in line or use a clamp meter around a single power cable (either positive or negative)


          Tapatalktalk

          ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

          Too lazy to browse HK45's mega-long output shot comparison thread?

          Try the HIDP Projector Output Comparison App!

          Comment


          • #6
            At right, I have a clamp meter. I'll get on that.

            2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder
            2017 Lexus CT200h F Sport

            Comment


            • #7
              I tried the clamp part of my multimeter. It showed 0. I'm guessing out of range? I also put it in series, and the light bar wouldn't even turn on. My meter is auto ranging, but has only two amp settings. One for AC amps, and one for DC ľA. I'm guessing it can't handle enough current for the light bar to turn on?


              2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder
              2017 Lexus CT200h F Sport

              Comment


              • #8
                That clamp meter should be able to show the amp draw. Did you have it on dc amps?

                Comment


                • #9
                  I had it on DC ľA, there is no DC A setting. Only AC A. In DC ľA, it showed 0 and didn't move.

                  2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder
                  2017 Lexus CT200h F Sport

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Sounds like it cannot. Time to get a slightly better meter!
                    2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'
                    1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4E 'mom-mobile'

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Yeah, looks like that clamp meter is only good for measuring small currents

                      You've gotta be doing it wrong with the in-line multimeter. Make sure you're not reading mA otherwise you're going to (if you havent already) blown the fuse and as a consequence read 0A. Make sure you're using the dedicated 10A terminal and on the DC10A setting, sort of like this:



                      Also, make sure you get as much copper around those probes as you can otherwise you might end up with a high resistance leading to a low amp reading. Had this happen to me when I was testing my fleabay special bar.

                      ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

                      Too lazy to browse HK45's mega-long output shot comparison thread?

                      Try the HIDP Projector Output Comparison App!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        My meter only has two terminals, and no 10A setting. It's auto ranging, so it only has an AC A and DC ľA. I'll get a pic of it later.

                        2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder
                        2017 Lexus CT200h F Sport

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Yea, it's useless for this. It'll only measure TINY DC amps and AC amps.
                          2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'
                          1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4E 'mom-mobile'

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            You probably blew a fuse inside as well.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              lol halo, go to autozone and buy my meter. I've seen it there. Overpriced there but you'll know it'll work.


                              Tapatalktalk

                              ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

                              Too lazy to browse HK45's mega-long output shot comparison thread?

                              Try the HIDP Projector Output Comparison App!

                              Comment

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