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Ocelaris' PC power supply mod: easy version (with pictures) for ATX type

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  • Ocelaris' PC power supply mod: easy version (with pictures) for ATX type

    There's a very useful thread started by Ocelaris on how to make bench top power supply from pc power supplies. The link is here:
    http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...s+power+supply

    Starting from post #1, the thread is very comprehensive. The one downside to that, is that it may be difficult for some of us who are not too familiar with electronics DIY.

    Using the excellent information in that thread, I'm posting a simpler version that applies for ATX type power supply only. (It is actually covered in that thread, but it can be overwhelming to read in one sitting) Unlike Ocelaris' post, this one shows the minimal number of steps to get the power supply to work, and may not be as elegant as when following the instructions in Ocelaris' thread (with work to remove wiring clutter and possibly adding a switch).

    What does it apply to?
    A PC power supply that has a connector that looks like this:


    Tools & materials:
    1. PC Power supply, ATX type
    2. Crimping tool (Figure 2)
    3. Electrical tape
    4. Two quick-splice terminals (Figure 3)
    5. One pair of bullet connectors (Figure 4)
    6. Insulated wire. (~6 inches should be enough; 20 to 16 AWG should be ok)

    Figure 2. Crimp Tool; from Kragen's/O'reilly website


    Figure 3. Quick splice terminal; from Kragen's/O'reilly website


    Figure 4. Bullet Connector; from Kragen's/O'reilly website



    Note:
    With the power supply I used, I was able to ignite 1 ballast at a time, & sustaining a total of 2 Morimoto 3Five (35W) ballasts powering Morimoto 35W D2S bulbs. The relevant power rating is the number in the blue highlighted box below (=144W for my case)
    Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

    3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

  • #2
    Here's a connector from the power supply that would have normally connect to a PC's motherboard. The connector shape and wire color coding here is consistent with an ATX power supply. Ocelaris' thread has a full list of all the wire colors in post #1.

    Pins #1 through 10 are behind the pins marked 11 through 20. We will be working with wires going to pins #14 (green) & 15 (black) as marked.
    Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

    3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

    Comment


    • #3
      Place 1 quick splice terminal through the green wire (#14) and around 3 inches of extra wire. At one end of the extra wire, attach a bullet connector (either male or female).
      Place 1 quick splice terminal through the black wire (#15) and around 3 inches of extra wire. At one end of the extra wire, attach the matching pair of the bullet connector (female or male).
      Use electrical tape to make sure no bare conductors/wires from your work are exposed.
      Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

      3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

      Comment


      • #4
        And you're done. Use yellow and black to power a ballast or anything that expects ~12V. Use red and black to power anything that expects ~5V. Enjoy.

        To return the power supply to the donor PC, disconnect the bullet connector you've added. Make sure no metal/conductor/wires are exposed.

        Sometimes, the power supply may not want to power up. Simply wait a few seconds, unplug the AC cable if necessary, and try again. It has worked everytime for me.
        Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

        3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks for this! I was able to build a super cheap, super easy power supply using these ideas. I didn't want to do any splicing or cutting of the PSU, so I bought a PSU with a switch on the back. To connect pins 14 & 15, I made a jumper out of a paper clip and some heat shrink tube, then jumped pins 14/15. To get power off one of those 4 pin connectors, I modified a 4-pin to SATA adapter by cutting off the SATA side and stripping the wires. I soldered the grounds together. I use twist on connectors to cover whichever positive voltage I'm not using, and alligator clips to connect the ground & positive voltage I need. So, I can easily remove any exposed wires by unplugging the adapter.

          Comment


          • #6
            Some power supplies require a small load to start, sometimes you need a fan plugged in or some other device. A simple resistor should also work.
            2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'
            1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4E 'mom-mobile'

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Alpine View Post
              Thanks for this!
              Glad it can be of use.
              Originally posted by Bitter View Post
              Some power supplies require a small load to start, sometimes you need a fan plugged in or some other device. A simple resistor should also work.
              Yes. I use a turn signal bulb sometimes.
              Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

              3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

              Comment


              • #8
                Yeah the old one really needed updating glad to see someone tackle it!!!

                I have both a car battery and a PSU I rigged up with some fused links using a spark fun DIY board. Gives me terminals and pretty much no chance of hurting the PSU.


                Nathanael Carriere

                Facebook l Instagram l Website l Blog

                Comment


                • #9
                  I went a little simpler way with mine.

                  Bought a 500w PC supply, cut the ends off the yellow and black connectors and added four 9006 outputs, and six alligator clip outputs (6 ground, 6 power).

                  I bought a PC supply tester to give it the initial draw, and everything works flawlessly.








                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Frenchy906 View Post
                    I went a little simpler way with mine.

                    Bought a 500w PC supply, cut the ends off the yellow and black connectors and added four 9006 outputs, and six alligator clip outputs (6 ground, 6 power).
                    Thanks for adding. That PSU looks fancy.

                    Did you remove the sleeves off the alligator clips? I would put them back on imho.
                    Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

                    3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      They did not come with sleeves, which was a bummer...

                      I was hoping they would, but they don't... which is why I separated the yellow / black wires from each other, and re-jacketed them so they are grouped together... to keep them from grounding out.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Could one use something like this:

                        http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T2GT9L4/...ing=UTF8&psc=1

                        . . to accomplish the same thing as the CPU power supply mod?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          No, that's a lithium ion battery. Not good at producing large amounts of current at once and won't run long due to low capacity.

                          2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder
                          2017 Lexus CT200h F Sport

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by mrtris View Post
                            Could one use something like this:
                            . . to accomplish the same thing as the CPU power supply mod?
                            Originally posted by Haloruler64 View Post
                            No, that's a lithium ion battery. Not good at producing large amounts of current at once and won't run long due to low capacity.
                            Thanks for responding to that. A current jolt will probably not play nice with the ballast, that assumes a relatively stable voltage source.
                            Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

                            3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              That would power a ballast fine, don't know for how long. Long enough to test a bulb at least, maybe longer.
                              2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'
                              1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4E 'mom-mobile'

                              Comment

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