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Positve or Ground Switched Dual Fiament Database Thread

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  • Positve or Ground Switched Dual Fiament Database Thread

    Honda Civic 01-05 Ground Switched H4
    Honda Civic <00 Positively Switched H4
    Toyota Tacoma 98-00 = neg. switched -superjoe83
    Toyota Yaris 2007 ground switched -Violin
    1992 Taurus SHO 9007 (+) switched
    2001 Nissan Maxima = H4 ground switched
    Saturn Ion Ground Switched
    1997-98 infiniti Q45, Ground controlled H4
    Mitsubishi Montero 1986 Positive Switched H4
    Toyota MR2 - mk1 / 1985-1989 - Ground switched
    1995-1999 nissan maxima- Switched power
    2004-2006 Chevy Aveo --> H4 Positive Switch
    1991 lexus ls400 ground switched
    2000 toyota corolla positive switched
    2003 Volkswagen Jetta TDI - Positive switched This could possibly go for all american Jettas 1999-2004 (9007, wire colors: Yellow/low, Brown/Ground, White/High... kind of rhymes!)
    1991 Toyota 4Runner - Ground Switched (h4/6054 sealed beam)
    1997 Pontiac Firebird - Positive Switched
    Honda Pilot: H4 Ground Switched
    2007 Honda Ridgeline RTL - positive switched (H4)
    1999 toyota solara H4 is Positive switch
    1997 Toyota camry is ground switch
    96-02 Toyota 4Runner - H4 Ground switched

    Guys, Gals,
    I would like to start a thread for reference whether your vehicle is positively switched or negatively switched. This is really only important to those of us with a vehicle with a dual filament bulb, i.e. H4, 9004, or 9007. Because all the others, 9005,9006,H1,H7,H9,H11 etc... have both and it's inconsequential. So let's hear it, if you know what your vehicle is, please state the make, model, year, and bulb type and I'll make it a reference for everyone. Thanks -Oce

    *A big Thank you to anyone who participates ahead of time"

    The easiest way to test is with a multimeter, but you can also use a test light. I have provided a form which basically has spots for results for 2 different tests, Continuity to ground, and Positive voltage (nominal 12v ranges 10-15v).

    Continuity to ground just means it's connected to your ground, switching ground systems use this to make the connection, leaving 12v active at the switch and just make or break connection to ground. Positive switched means that power is switched on, and ground is always available. The way to think about the two differences is, which commodity is most available. In a ground switched circuit, positive voltage is always available, and ground is the hard to find commodity. In a positive switched, ground is always available and positive voltage is a rare commodity. Positive voltage switching is what you probably learned in school.

    To fill out the chart with a multimeter, you are going to do 2 tests. One for continuity to ground, meaning the black lead on the negative battery terminal and the red one probing the 3 sockets. The other test (for positive voltage) is with the same black lead on the negative terminal and probing with the red one, but this should be on voltage usually denoted by an equal sign = instead of the squiggly equal sign ~ which means AC. You test all three sockets in all three states, off, low and high beam (high beam in the full on state, not flash to pass high beam).

    If you don't have a multimeter, you can use a test bulb... For the continuity to ground test, start with one lead on the positive battery terminal, and probe each socket and see if the bulb lights up. If the bulb lights up, this means continuity to ground. Now for the +12v (nominal may range between 10-15v) test, start with the bulb's test lead on the negative battery terminal and probe each socket, if it lights up, you have a +12v signal.

    Fill in the chart and feel free to post it back and I can tell you what it means. I will post people's names by their car's test, so future people can know who to thank.

    For those of you with 9004 or 9007, you can apply these same tests to your sockets, and just modify the drawings to reflect that... Here are the pinouts for various dual filament bulbs. Ignore the Polarity, just use Common, Low, and High, and run the tests above.

  • #2
    1998-00 Toyota Tacoma = neg. switched
    '99 Toyota Tacoma, TL\ZKW, DL50's, yourhid 50w ballasts, S2K fogs with 85122 35w
    '08 Can-am Renegade, 9005 Hid kit 4300k
    '76 Chevy 3/4 ton pickup, Hella E-codes, Catz Zeta boosted H4 GE Nighthawks


    • #3
      2007 Toyota Yaris liftback - H4 - switching ground (positive always supplied, even with ignition off)


      • #4
        Can you tell me how you can tell so I can may be contribute? My car (98-01 Altima) is 9007 but I had Doh Doh make the harness for me so I have no clue!
        My Feedback thread:


        • #5
          01-03 honda civic
          negative switched
          civic 2003 coupe



          • #6
            '06 Toyota Tacoma = positive switched H4. Thanks for your help Ocelaris.
            "We are ALL spiritual beings going through a temporary human experience."


            • #7
              tested and/or FSM schematics.

              96-04 tacoma H4 (+)
              96-02 4runner H4 (+)
              02 civic H4 (+)


              • #8
                Profuse, are you sure the 02 civic is positively switched? Because I have a 02 civic Si, and it's ground switched, and I have made 30+ harnesses for the 02-03 civic which were all ground switched.


                • #9
                  I am pretty certain. there is only one wire that goes to the H4 harness, which is the postive (or 86). I ground out all the other wires at factory points.

                  just wondering, for those 30+ harnesses, any bixenon for the h4?


                  • #10
                    My Ion is Positive Switched, super lame


                    • #11
                      350z - pos. switched w/ seperate h7/h1 + bulb leads and common ground. the other city light/parking lights are also pos. switched and have their own common ground. :drinkers:


                      • #12
                        The 95-99 Mitubishi Eclipse uses both a positive switched (low beam) and a negative switched (high beam) system.

                        Also note these Eclipses already have a very healthy relay system to provide power to your HID retro-fit. There is NO NEED to make a new harness for these cars. I've run for 3 years with my HIDs as DRLs so you know my lights turn on and off constantly with never a failure or power drop to my ballasts. See notes below about flashing your brights and multiple ballast re-strikes.

                        Here's the power logic.

                        Turn on the low beams. A small ground signal from inside the car activates a relay under the hood thus providing power to both the low beams and the high beams. Only the low beams will turn on as they have a permanent ground at each fender just behind the lights.

                        The high beams have power whenever the low beams are on but will not turn on until the ground path has been completed. That path is inside the car on the steering wheel stalk switch. Pull the switch back, and the high beams find a ground and turn on.

                        Note: Due to the above arrangement, the flash-to-pass feature will always activate both the low and high beams.

                        I use my HID low beams as DRLs so when I use the flash-to-pass feature, the HIDs are already on so I'm not stressing the ballasts by multiple re-triggers. When I flash my brights the bi-xenon shields pop up as well and my standard halogen high beams turn on.


                        • #13
                          time to get this thread moved to university.... haha. sorry, i have very little knowledge of what this is talking about and the 04 taco has been posted already. good thread!
                          MY FEEDBACK

                          2004 Toyota Tacoma Ext. Cab v6 TRD 4x4 w/ TFX projectors and black ABS plastic shroud.


                          • #14
                            Maybe I should have specified this before, but this really is only for the dual filament people, i.e. H4, 9004, and 9007 users because it is life or death for them.

                            I'm not saying it's not important for the single filament users, i.e. H1, H3, 9005, 9006, H7, H9, H11, H12, but making a harness is not challenging for them because it's 85 and 86 terminal takes 2 wires...

                            Dave you want to make a more technical explanation of the pros/cons of positive vs. Ground switched? Mainly why anyone would use ground switched, because it doesn't make much sense at first glance... feel free to change around the first post. Just keep the theme that the dual filament people are in need...


                            • #15
                              Ocelaris my mitsubishi montero.. I don't know if positive or negative ground but I do these

                              I tested this afternoon my mitsubishi montero 1986. I use a test +12v and #2 (negative beam) turn on....parking lights +12v and #2 (negative beam) turn on......the low +12v and #2(negative) turn on....low the negative terminal in the battery and #1 (positive) turn on .... high +12v and #3 on (negative) turn on

                              #1 positive beam
                              #2 negative beam
                              #3 high beam