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JnC's Mounting Method (with Rotational Adj Capability)

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  • JnC's Mounting Method (with Rotational Adj Capability)

    Well time has come to make a dedicated thread about the rotational adjustment method that I have been using over the past year or so in my retros. I have been describing it to other members in their threads but i think its better if I have one thread where I explain everything for people who might be interested in using this method. There are two methods that I imply, one is for retros that you mount on your existing reflector and one is where you actually mount the projector/s to the headlight housing rather than the reflector.

    This thread will explain how to mount on a reflector using brackets.

    If done accordingly you will have fully adjustment capability that is horizontal, vertical and the dreaded rotational even after you are done sealing your headlights .

    I'll be using pictures of an old retro I did back in may on a 2000 Acura TL. Space is very tight in this headlight you can barely squeeze a medium sized projector in there, such as the S2k, and have adjustment capabilities.

    This set used a set of SC430 projectors with a set of E30 clear lenses.

    The actual projector



    Both projectors shaved down to bare essentials.



    I usually take the lenses off before doing the work and install them once the retro is ready, this way you avoid the chance of damaging them



    The headlights



    Acura TL uses reflector based HID set up, i draw rough reference lines to know where the bulb sits, perpendicular axis for cut off reference.



    Now this is very important. Every headlight has guidelines somewhere along the reflector that indicate perfect line out of the headlight i.e. a line that runs parallel to the OEM bulb. This will be used to allow us to figure out where to drill holes to mount the projector. Using this you can get a perfect beam on the horizontal axis and can be further tweaked using factory horizontal adjustment screw. The line starts from right underneath where the OEM bulb sits and is parallel to it.



    There are two lines in the above picture only one is the correct one, when you do yours you will only draw one after calculating the exact location and direction.

    After etching that line and using a ruler draw a perpendicular line to this line. On the perpendicular line you will drill two holes that you will use to mount the projector.

    Notice the perpendicular line and notice the etches in the reflector, all those etches are parallel to the bulb.



    After using dremel to make hole in the reflector this is how the projector looks sitting inside the headlight.




    The Brackets

    Brackets are made out of 1/8'' thick stainless steel, you can pick up a piece at your local body shop or even home depot. As you can see you dont need much of it. They are bent at 90 degrees and are drilled and tapped for 10-24 size screws. Also notice the two mounting holes in the projectors on the bottom, i'll come back to explaining their location in a bit.





    Notice that i have cut corners towards the top of the bracket, this will let the projector rotate without letting the bracket hinder anything by touching with the projector. Every projector is different, the SC and S2k dont give you many options and metal to work with as far as drilling holes go.








    In this method you will use three mounting points. Two holes for the brackets at the bottom and one at the top which will control the pitch of the projector.



    The mounting screws

    As stated earlier these will be placed on the perpendicular line drawn earlier. Each is as far apart from the center line as the holes in the projectors are .







    Dont mind the epoxy on the side, it was to mend a crack in the reflector.



    The hole in the projector is a hair bigger than the actual screw. This is done so that the screw doesnt bind with the projector holds the projector in place yet lets it move freely. Screws would go through the hole in the back and then into the tapped holes in the brackets. They are not tightened fully, a slight play is left and after the final install a dab of lock tight is put on them so they dont come loose later.



    This picture shows what the final mount will look like, notice that i used regular washers for mock up, at the end you will use sealing washers. These are washers that have rubber on one side and aluminum on the other. The rubber side will be against the reflector to ease the pressure on the projector, which is more than what people exert on it using the regular mounting method, also notice that the projector is sitting on the reflector rather than haning onto it.



    Pitch adjustment screw on the top.






    This is how the projector would look when mounted.












    This is the final mount, the excessive brackets sticking out are cut, lenses mounted.



    Notice the sealing washers used.










    Do some initial testing by mounting the headlights on the car.



    Each mounting screw on the bottom when rotated pushes the projector up and down from its side, this way you control the alignment of cut off . Clockwise to lower it and vise versa.

    Initial fire up.



    Some tinkering with the adjustment screws and this is what you get



    After the headlights are sealed you might need a tad bit of adjustment for a perfect beam for this purpose you drill a small hole on the bottom of the headlight to gain access to one of the mounting screws, pick whichever one you can have easier access to after the install.

    This is how the output looked after the sealed headlights were installed .











    This concludes today's session ladies and gents . I hope this thread helps, i am sure it will since a few members have already used it. I see some people have used springs as well, although i love the idea but the springs may wear out after a while hence I suggest the drill and tap method for the brackets. You can pick up a drill / tap set for 10-24 screws at home depot for 3.99 .

    If mods think that this thread will help the masses then feel free to move it to the university section .


    Edit 5/01/2008: Rehosted all images-- JnC
    BST Rules

    00 GS300
    06 TL
    06 RL
    00 S2000

  • #2
    F, what do you normally use to cover those screws at the bottom?
    My Feedback
    http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=28898

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    • #3
      Originally posted by surreal612
      F, what do you normally use to cover those screws at the bottom?
      ABS plastic followed by a shrouds such as the S2k.
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      • #4
        amazing write up, and nice method. that's definitely new to me.

        could you clarify exactly where you mounted the brackets on the s2k projectors? i did a set in my is300 and just used the two screws that secure the bowl to the lenshousing to secure my brackets.
        it's definitely not secure enough for my liking, and i'm getting ready to pull them out to paint my housings, and i think i'll try your method to remount them.

        93 civic - SOLD
        02 is300 - Modded s2k retro w/auto-leveling
        Vouches: Bandaid182, mhschiefs806, drrice, underwhere, JSMexUsa, and everyone else I missed!

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        • #5
          Originally posted by SOHKeg
          amazing write up, and nice method. that's definitely new to me.

          could you clarify exactly where you mounted the brackets on the s2k projectors? i did a set in my is300 and just used the two screws that secure the bowl to the lenshousing to secure my brackets.
          it's definitely not secure enough for my liking, and i'm getting ready to pull them out to paint my housings, and i think i'll try your method to remount them.
          When properly shaved both the SC and S2k projectors are identical. so the bottom two holes would be almost at the exact spot as they are in the above shown SC projectors.
          BST Rules

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          • #6
            I figured this would be the best place to ask this possibly silly question. As for the any of the 3 adjustment mounts; the bolt seems to be tight to the reflector/housing of the entire light assembly. How will this be able to be twisted to move the threaded brackets up and down? I would assume if properly tightened down, then the bolt/adjuster would not be able to spin enough to successfully rotate or raise the housing. Any incite JnC? Thanks (PS I have read this thread a few times now and have run the different possibilities through my head before attempting my retro)

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            • #7
              Originally posted by yetti96
              As for the any of the 3 adjustment mounts; the bolt seems to be tight to the reflector/housing of the entire light assembly. How will this be able to be twisted to move the threaded brackets up and down? I would assume if properly tightened down, then the bolt/adjuster would not be able to spin enough to successfully rotate or raise the housing.
              I believe the nut on the inside of the reflector is a stop nut. F allows the nut to be tight enough to not be loose and shake, but loose enough so that when he turns the nut from the bottom to make adjustments, it's still able to turn.
              *MY FEEDBACK*

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              • #8
                Originally posted by san~man
                Originally posted by yetti96
                As for the any of the 3 adjustment mounts; the bolt seems to be tight to the reflector/housing of the entire light assembly. How will this be able to be twisted to move the threaded brackets up and down? I would assume if properly tightened down, then the bolt/adjuster would not be able to spin enough to successfully rotate or raise the housing.
                I believe the nut on the inside of the reflector is a stop nut. F allows the nut to be tight enough to not be loose and shake, but loose enough so that when he turns the nut from the bottom to make adjustments, it's still able to turn.
                You got it, thats why in the final assembly i use nylock nuts and tighten them just enough so they dont come loose yet there is still some play to adjust the brackets and the top pivot screw . You might think that the projector might shake etc but it doesnt due to the sealing washers (ones with rubber on one side and metal on the other).
                BST Rules

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                • #9
                  Ok cool. I would imagine there would very some adjust-ability with the sealing washers and nylock nuts, but there is no need to torque down a bolt that goes through plastic, lol. Thanks for the clarification.

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                  • #10
                    hey, i went to lowes today to get the hardware and i picked up some nylon spacers to used with the springs. this what i'm thinking: i'll use the spacers to push the projector out to where i need it and then cut maybe 2 coils on the spring and put that after the spacer just for minor adjustments. what do you think? i was going to use some springs as spacers and for adjustment but i don't want to risk having the projector bounce around while i'm driving. this is going on a lowered tc and it doesn't exactly ride like a BMW, lol.
                    also, do you think the nylon spacers will be ok with the ammound of heat comming off the projectors? and should i put reflective tape on the projector where the 2 parts come together or will i be ok? TSX's btw.
                    thank you.

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                    • #11
                      ^^ Nylon spacers are fine, as far as springs bouncing they wont bounce if there is enough tension between them and the headlight reflector. Post pictures of your devised mounting method and me and others can chim in with opinions as to how it can work for you.
                      BST Rules

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                      06 TL
                      06 RL
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                      • #12
                        Hey JnC, great writeup... I think I will be using this for my tsx accord retro due to its adjustability. Can I ask a few completely stupid questions? haha.

                        1. How important is the upper screw for pitch? Would you be able to suffice with just the two bottom screws?

                        Thanks in advance

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                        • #13
                          ^^ The top screw is also an anchor it doesnt let the projector rattle when your car goes over bumps.
                          BST Rules

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                          06 TL
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                          • #14
                            you use a threaded drill bit right?

                            where did you get the springs that you were using in other bracket system?
                            2006 350z Projector Color Mod
                            06 Infiniti G35 Coupe Bi-xenon color mod
                            2004 G35 Quad Projector OEM Style
                            FX Hybrid with G37 Bowl "Mountain No more!"

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by IvoryGT
                              you use a threaded drill bit right?

                              where did you get the springs that you were using in other bracket system?
                              The tapping and drilling bit can be found at Homedepot along with the tension springs .
                              BST Rules

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                              06 TL
                              06 RL
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