New to the forum: f150 retrofit

[jpf150]

Hi all, the name is James. This is going to be my build log (which hopefully won't take too long) for my retrofits. Lately I've been visiting here quite frequently and even see some names from f150online...

On to the build

The vehicle is a 2001 f150. I'm replacing my harley headlights with lightnings and doing the retrofit to those.

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Can't believe I don't have any recent pics on this computer but oh well. Step bars and bed rail bars are off along with red mirror caps now.

As I said before I ordered lightning headlights and also the 3" FX-R kit from TRS along with the gatling gun shroud and amber halos.

Here is the progress so far:

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[jpf150]

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I've got the holes cut in each headlight and while the projectors fit no problem, the shrounds are just a little too tall. I've tried everything short of shaving the top of the shroud off to get them to fit.

So here is where I am stuck at. Any suggestions on how to make them fit or another shroud to use? I've been thinking of just not using a shroud...would this be a problem at all?

[gold94corolla]

Nice progress so far! Are you going to paint the lights at all, since you removed most of the chrome on the rest of the truck?

As for the shroud, yeah you'll have to trim the top of it. You should be able to do it so that you can't see the cut once it's all done. Cutting shrouds is normal.

[satrya]

If you'd rather not over trim the shroud, one way would be to copy the general shape of the shroud on something else, and trim that something else until you are ok with the final shape. Then, transfer the outline to the shroud.

For example, you could use a paper mache (a simple mix of water and all purpose flour + a bit of salt; on used strips of paper) to replicate the general shape of the shroud (or foglight housing in my case):


Trim the replica as much as you want:


Add tape on areas you cut too much (the white tape):


Transfer the final outline to the piece you need to trim:


And cut once:


Even if you happen to have a pile of disposable shrouds, fine trimming paper mache generates dust that is easier to clean compared to ABS plastic, which usually accumulates some static electricity during the material removal (e.g. using a metal saw). They could then "cling" onto the reflector bowl, headlight lens, etc. I've had that happen on a clear taillight project, and it's quite annoying to clean.

[jpf150]

Thanks guys for the warm welcome!

Gold, as far as painting anything, that's another thing I am debating. I'd like to match the red of the truck on the reflector bowl and use my halos and an led strip around the outside of the bowl, but I am not sure what to do with the corner lights since I still need those reflectors...

Satrya, thanks for the help! I might actually have to give that a try today. Not much would need to be cut off so it wouldn't take long at all to make something and trim it up.

Also have a question for anyone that would like to answer it. Would it be ok not to use a shroud? I've been debating this option as well.

[that_guy318]

I'd leave the lights chrome if I were you, the chrome ties in with the rest of the front end of your truck nicely.

[jpf150]

Thanks man! I'm going to try to get these mounted to the truck today to make sure the projectors are aligned correctly and I'll snap a few pictures to do some renditions.

[satrya]

Also have a question for anyone that would like to answer it. Would it be ok not to use a shroud? I've been debating this option as well.

Since the fx-r has a closed design, there isn't any stray light that would have escaped without a shroud. In that sense, there is no functional need for one.

As for the aesthetics, that is up to you. My take is that if you don't use a shroud, it makes sense to change the theme of the headlight to a more of a bare bones look. In other words, have more hints of exposed bolts etc. that makes it look like an engineering cutout. Otherwise, the mix of covered look and no shroud might be a bit odd.

[jpf150]

Thanks for the answer and suggestions. I like the bare bones look and to me it looks less crowded. I'll see what I can come up with and post any progress.

[satrya]

Maybe something like the inside of a watch. I don't mean the modern one with solid state chips, but the one with tiny gears.

[2003 SSEi]

get a different shroud. I had the same problem with my Retrofit. The lip of the shroud hit the lense. I went with the e46 shroud that doesent stick out from the projector so far.

[jpf150]

If I don't use a shroud I'll do something with the halo wires to give it more of an "exposed look". Not sure what else to do besides maybe brackets on the front to help hold the projector in.

SSEi: Not sure if I am to keen on the looks of the e46 but I'll keep it in mind if I decide to go with a shroud. Thanks for letting me know about it!

I was able to run pretty much all the wires today except for drilling the grounds. Still need to make brackets to better hold in the ballasts and zip tie up all of the wires from the harness. I did hit one snag today though. One of my lenses is cracked. It's the 3" inch clear version. Anyone know where I can buy another? I might just contact TRS and see what they say since I am not sure if it was that way when I got it or if I accidentally cracked it (don't think I did but who knows...). I'll post some pictures up in a bit.

[satrya]

I was able to run pretty much all the wires today except for drilling the grounds. Still need to make brackets to better hold in the ballasts and zip tie up all of the wires from the harness. I did hit one snag today though. One of my lenses is cracked. It's the 3" inch clear version. Anyone know where I can buy another? I might just contact TRS and see what they say since I am not sure if it was that way when I got it or if I accidentally cracked it (don't think I did but who knows...). I'll post some pictures up in a bit.

Regarding the ground, if there is any existing bolt on the chassis or the front clip, you can consider sanding the area right under the bolt head, and mount them there.

As for the lens, depending on the size of the crack, you may be able to orient it such that the crack doesn't affect the output.

[jpf150]

Thanks man. I was planning on doing what I did for my amplifiers. Just grind down to bare metal and use self tapping screws. That way I can put them about where I want for neat wiring.

As far as the lens goes I guess it's better described as a chip. If I can get the projectors mounted tomorrow with at least a few bolts I'll see if it affects the output. Any rough idea on the cost and skill needed to replace a lens if need be?

[jpf150]

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