7" retrofit (GDAA WRX)

[gold94corolla]

Yeah honestly I don't like how much the projector sticks out compared to the other, but I hoped that it would look OK once it's finished.

[michael.kozera]

i think its gonna come out great, but im with the other guys, sticks out too far, your main headlights a nice and almost vertical smooth so fogs should match that too i think.

[satrya]

Agree x3

[satrya]

How about DRL

It doesn't look like the 2.5" projector's bowl could fit through the opening in the bumper cover without a lot of cutting.

I saw this medium intensity LED on someone's thread, and it certainly is shallower than a projector bowl. Here are 5 of them put together on a piece of cardboard, with 5 holes punched for the LED units.


Trying the output of the LEDs behind the 2.5" ribbed lens, it turns out that the LEDs don't need to be too far behind the lens for optimum placement. All it needs is about 1.5 ~ 2 inches of space.

[satrya]

Makeshift lens holder

Since I'm not too worried about heat on the business end of the LED, I went with two 3" white PVC caps. Mark the center to drill like so (the triangle method to find the center of a circle didn't work as well as eyeballing the center fonts of the markings this time):


The lens needs to be held together behind the opening of the white PVC cap. Since I had two spare acrylic disks from making the mock-up bumper cover opening, I tried to use those. Cut the middle to the right size so the lens can "poke" through.

[satrya]

Drum sander to match both inner and outer diameter holes:

[satrya]

The ribbed lens, sandwiched between the acrylic ring and the pvc cap.


The nice thing about the acrylic ring, is that with a bit of frosting, it can help give out a halo effect on the outer edge of the ribbed lens, when lit. (i think)

[Killjoy418]

Whoa! That looks wicked!! Keep the pics coming! Are these ribbed lens going to be used for the leds?

Nevermind I went back and read it! lol thats cool! But do you think the leds and the lens will just let light go around everywhere? Think itd be possible to build a mini shield? Almost like an LED Q45! haha

[satrya]

^
Thanks
If I do pair the LEDs with the ribbed lens, it is for DRL, which, by definition, needs to not have a sharp cutoff. I haven't taken wall output pictures on the LED + ribbed lens combo, because at this stage I don't have any spare hand to man the camera (since the LED and lens are 2 separate units at this point).
From the right distance, the otherwise diffuse beam of each LED becomes a horizontal hotspot with a gradual transition to dark. That should maximize the visibility from a wide enough angle as seen from other vehicles. It's definitely not the right pattern for low or high beams.
Another option is to use them as auxiliary forward facing turn signal.

[that_guy318]

Looks promising, keep up the good work man

[Killjoy418]

Ahhh okay I see! Sounds pretty good!! Keep up the great work man!!

I still like the idea of an led Q45 haha.

[satrya]

Thanks that_guy318 & Killjoy418. Anyone with a 518 care to chime in?

As for the Q45; imho it would only look good if there are at least 7 units, 6 around and one in the center. Along with the Hella Micro DE, I don't know if the LEDs would fit the 7" opening.

[Killjoy418]

Lol I didn't catch that at first! That's my birthday! Lol


Haha yeah probably not! Just like the idea but then again I love LEDs.
Excited to see the outcome.

[satrya]

^
LEDs have their own pros and cons imho. With a headlight that is very close to an engine bay, I'll stick with either HID or halogen for low beams for the moment.

[satrya]

Mounting bracket for the Micro DE

Need to set the LED DRL / turn signal idea aside to mull over some more...

Either way, the Micro DE foglights need to be mounted. Here's an option where I don't mount it on the 7" unit. Instead, have the Micro DE mounted on the bumper cover, and then treat the 7" unit like a "shroud". This is especially because the aftermarket 7" unit I plan to use have no mounting tabs whatsoever.

2 aluminum L brackets, mounted at ~92 degrees with respect to each other. They are held together by a galvanized steel L bracket. I try to use aluminum for parts I don't need to bend for minimum weight, and galvanized steel where I may need to bend (since they can withstand to more plastic deformation before failing). The blue piece is a mock up of the opening in the bumper cover; made out of clear acrylic (covered with blue tape).


One side of the Micro DE mounts to the galvanized steel L bracket like so:


The other side will need something similar. Since the horizontal-running aluminum bracket is actually aligned with the ground level, it makes sense to use another steel bracket with a hole drilled at the same height.