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7" retrofit (GDAA WRX)

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  • satrya
    replied
    Sealing potential sources of water ingress

    I've been using the silicone based aquarium glass sealant (picture below) for several days now. I read from many threads to be cautious of using silicone based sealants for the potential of the acetic acid hazing the lens from the inside. I read that aquarium sealant was allegedly ok, but was a bit alarmed that it too had the smell of acetic acid. Either way, to minimize the issue, I've taken a very gradual approach to using this sealant; little by little, one thin layer a day; to let the curing process release the acetic acid byproducts outside instead of into the housing. The seal for the 7" glass lens is still butyl rubber.


    Clamping the back panel to the housing as the silicone cures. The L bracket is just there to keep the edge straight.


    A little added insurance on top of the rubber grommets put in place. I doesn't look aesthetically pleasing, but better that than a leaky housing imho.

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  • satrya
    replied
    Originally posted by Flipswitch View Post
    It's always fun checking out your work :-)
    Thank you.
    Glad I entertained someone.

    Still running quads on the GDAB?

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  • Flipswitch
    replied
    It's always fun checking out your work :-)

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  • satrya
    replied
    Originally posted by TRSAndrew View Post
    Decided against that due to limited supply.
    I see. But you had at least one pair of the MKZs, didn't you?
    Maybe that and the prius LED might work stacked on top of one another.

    Or if you could source one of these from Europe to stack with the MKZs...
    http://www.autoblog.com/2014/06/18/u...ed-headlights/


    That would top everything imho

    You just need to fit the inner one with 24 individual LEDs

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  • TRSAndrew
    replied
    Originally posted by satrya View Post
    @TRSAndrew, you've gone through some crazy retrofits yourself... I was looking forward to the MKZ 2 x 2 lens per side retrofit in the Tacoma.
    Decided against that due to limited supply.

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  • satrya
    replied
    ^
    For the aux turn signal housing, the slightly smaller diameter of the 9W isn't enough to fit 3 of them in place of the 3W. A bigger housing won't clear the space, as the current aux turn signal housing already squeezes itself next to the Micro DE.

    If I make it large enough to fit 3 of them, I would have to get rid of the Micro DE. In the order of things, I prefer to have the Micro DE and the ES300 in the retrofit, and everything else only if there's space.

    Or did I misunderstand your feedback?

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  • gold94corolla
    replied
    I like how bright the 9W version is, but I don't like how smaller it is. Bigger = better in terms of visibility. Maybe you can fit 3 of the small ones instead of one of the larger ones?

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  • satrya
    replied
    Originally posted by TRSAndrew View Post
    This is the craziest fog light retrofit ever
    Originally posted by csjoh View Post
    Indeed
    Thanks; that is assuming it gets completed someday.

    @TRSAndrew, you've gone through some crazy retrofits yourself... I was looking forward to the MKZ 2 x 2 lens per side retrofit in the Tacoma.

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  • csjoh
    replied
    Indeed

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  • TRSAndrew
    replied
    This is the craziest fog light retrofit ever

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  • satrya
    replied
    Originally posted by Fstrsn View Post
    Mmmm, given how much brighter it is I thought you were going to explore switching over to the 9W, but if the 3W is already better than the OE unit, and it's not going to be a "painless" process I'd leave it also.
    Indeed.

    If the duration of this thread is any indication, I'm not in a hurry to finish the retrofit just for the sake of the result. That's why even though I recently made the switch from the 3W white LED to the 3W amber LED (of identical construction), I still bought and compared the 9W amber LED I ran across.

    But I have to draw the line somewhere. I might use it for my aux rear facing turn signal (on the rear wing riser); it currently uses old technology LEDs (amber emitter instead of blue emitter with phosphor-based amber colorshift) and is not visible in daytime at all:

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  • Fstrsn
    replied
    Originally posted by satrya View Post
    Yes. A very good question indeed. I will have to enlarge the mounting hole to account for the slightly larger diameter. The hole in question is buried deep in the frame of the housing. Given the additional heat stress of the "9W", and given that the "3W" seem a bit brighter than the main turn signal bulbs already, I'm not inclined to change anything.

    I suppose I posted the pictures above for whoever else that might run into these 2 LED variants and might consider which one to use. If I want to use the "9W", I would mount it in a good amount of properly vented metal to increase both the convective cooling and the thermal capacitance of the area near the LED board.

    The difference in intensity is quite noticeable.

    Mmmm, given how much brighter it is I thought you were going to explore switching over to the 9W, but if the 3W is already better than the OE unit, and it's not going to be a "painless" process I'd leave it also.

    Leave a comment:


  • satrya
    replied
    Originally posted by Fstrsn View Post
    But will the 9w be easily transferrable to the current assembly or will it require you to recreate that assembly with the new smaller diameter?
    Yes. A very good question indeed. I will have to enlarge the mounting hole to account for the slightly larger diameter. The hole in question is buried deep in the frame of the housing. Given the additional heat stress of the "9W", and given that the "3W" seem a bit brighter than the main turn signal bulbs already, I'm not inclined to change anything.

    I suppose I posted the pictures above for whoever else that might run into these 2 LED variants and might consider which one to use. If I want to use the "9W", I would mount it in a good amount of properly vented metal to increase both the convective cooling and the thermal capacitance of the area near the LED board.

    The difference in intensity is quite noticeable.

    Leave a comment:


  • Fstrsn
    replied
    But will the 9w be easily transferrable to the current assembly or will it require you to recreate that assembly with the new smaller diameter?

    Leave a comment:


  • satrya
    replied
    Head-to-head test, "3W" vs "9W" amber LEDs

    The smaller sized, "9W" on the left, the larger sized, "3W" on the right. The pictures below are taken at a progressively underexposed camera settings.

    At 1/100sec, f/6.3, ISO200


    At 1/200sec, f/22, ISO200


    At 1/4000sec, f/22, ISO200


    The last picture reveals the LED dots at the center. The "9W" is more noticeable from farther distances.

    Leave a comment:

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