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7" retrofit (GDAA WRX)

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  • gold94corolla
    replied
    Originally posted by Bitter View Post
    You can't do anything simple and quick can you?
    For Satrya, the destination is the journey!

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  • satrya
    replied
    Originally posted by Bitter View Post
    You can't do anything simple and quick can you?


    But everything you do looks amazing. Keep up the good work!
    Thanks. As much as I want the result, I want to use the opportunity to experiment with things. Most of the things I've been experimenting on (and ended up discarding) are things I haven't experimented on for my headlight retrofits.

    If I wanted simple, I would've been done with leaving the Hella Micro DE halogen fogs in the lower center grille, which I've done one winter just to test the output.

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  • Bitter
    replied
    You can't do anything simple and quick can you?


    But everything you do looks amazing. Keep up the good work!

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  • satrya
    replied
    Originally posted by Joshua Henry View Post
    Any progress? Can't wait for more.
    Nothing so far. I'm stuck on figuring out the best way to mount the trim around the foglights.

    Originally posted by Joshua Henry View Post
    P.S. I finally finished my Forester Retro, let me know what you think!
    I saw. That's quite an extensive mod overall. That front grille is one of the option parts for the JDM STi version isn't it? I remember looking at some option parts for my SG forester many years ago.

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  • Joshua Henry
    replied
    Any progress? Can't wait for more.

    P.S. I finally finished my Forester Retro, let me know what you think!

    Leave a comment:


  • satrya
    replied
    Test fit

    Test fitment of the new piece (on the far side / driver's side); just taping them on.


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  • satrya
    replied
    Lesson learned

    Learning from the heat bending experiment for the driver's side piece, I don't apply pliers or clamps directly onto the plastic piece. What happened was as the plastic was heated to a certain point, the local plastic area became soft enough that as the rest of the plastic piece tries to resist the bending, the local area warped, leaving some plier/clamp marks.

    Instead, I used two pieces of L brackets along the bend line, and progressively clamp the two brackets to shape the final bend on the plastic. All this while heat is applied with the lowest setting on the heat gun (shown on the right).


    The newer piece is shown under the original one. It is hard to see here, but the edges of the bends are a bit more consistent.

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  • satrya
    replied
    Ignoring for the moment, the important issue of how the black piece needs to be mounted, we turn our attention to replicating the black piece for the driver's side, before things go too far ahead.

    First, place some dimensional markers relative to fixed locations on the shaped piece. The arrow and circle-with-dot provides the orientation of up and forward, so as not to mix up the passenger vs driver side piece and so as not to mix up which way is up or down.


    On the raw black piece, place blue tape on areas that may need to be marked, either for alignment or trimming. Transfer measurements from the shaped piece (on the left) to the raw piece (on the right). This bypasses the need to make a paper mache to determine the fine trimming of the plastic piece as was done on the left piece before.

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  • satrya
    replied
    Originally posted by gold94corolla View Post
    I feel like the top edge should be lower so that it matches the bumper better
    Originally posted by that_guy318 View Post
    ^Yup
    Originally posted by Fstrsn View Post
    +2.

    It's not off by much, but enough that it's noticeable.
    The challenge is the contour of the bumper cover itself, where starting from the vertical piece before the 3 vents on the side, juts out further than the recess right above the foglight opening. This means that the black plastic piece will have to have a "bump" around that area. Moving the top edge at the point I placed allows the black plastic piece to be as smooth as possible. The blue tape in this picture emulates the exposed area of the bumper cover, with the area right below it being covered by the black plastic.

    My current thought is to reduce the number of visual features in the corner area, including the sharp change in curvature around that vertical piece (of the oem bumper cover) and the 3 vents, so that the headlights become a stronger focal point of visual details.

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  • Fstrsn
    replied
    +2.

    It's not off by much, but enough that it's noticeable.

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  • that_guy318
    replied
    ^Yup

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  • gold94corolla
    replied
    I feel like the top edge should be lower so that it matches the bumper better

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  • satrya
    replied
    Area around the opening needs some fine adjustment to visually line up with the 7" housing. Defer that for later.




    Top-ish view


    Not sure how to mount the plastic piece yet. Minor detail.

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  • satrya
    replied
    Closeup pic after some more trimming of the top rounded edge; the rounded edge is thinnest at the corner of the bumper cover, and is currently thickest at the back facing vent. The front facing vent doesn't need to stick out that much, because the bumper cover forms a bit of a recess in this area. I figured it would be more than enough airflow. Any more and I risk putting enough positive pressure behind the black plastic piece to blow it out on freeway speeds.


    This is how it currently looks from a bit farther back

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  • satrya
    replied
    That piece has to be removable, because the only way the 7" housing can be serviced is by taking the plastic piece off. I think that pretty much rules out epoxying the plastic piece to the oem bumper cover.

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