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M-led 2.0 in 2010 F-150, but still have questions

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  • M-led 2.0 in 2010 F-150, but still have questions

    First things first, wall shot:

    I just put in some morimoto M-led 2.0 from lightwerkz. I used aftermarket oem-style projector headlight housings, widely sold on eBay, and many other outlets. Mine were "Akkon", but probably exactly the same as Spyder ones. Black, no DRL strip. Supposedly, they use E55/evox-r bolt pattern, but the mounting posts on the top were 50mm apart and above the two sets of mounting holes of the e55/evox-r style. Here's the adjusting plate:

    I bought some e55 to m-led 2.0 brackets from lightwerkz. They didn't have the 50mm spaced holes, but were tall enough that I could Dremel out two slots for screws. No picture of modified bracket, because lazy, but here's the original bracket with the adapter bracket behind it:

    The original bracket was a little thinner, and the lens screw/reflector registration pin holes were spaced a little wider than the original bracket. This made putting the lens on pretty tough because it made the screws a bit of an interference fit with the bracket and lens holders. The new bracket was also missing the lens holder registration pin hole on the lower left (wrt the lens face). I drilled a blind hole deep enough for the lens holder pin, also because lazy, no other reason for blind hole. No picture, again, because I forgot.

    The adjusting plate needed to be cut on the bottom of the projector mounting window to accommodate the heat sink fan. Also shaved a little from the sides for the heat sink.

    Anyway, I mounted them up and did some on-truck alignment. I had to turn them ccw wrt to driver's position (left side was too high), but mostly fine. I baked them back together, and mounted them up. Apparently my parking light filament is out, but there's some pretty harsh reflection off the housing lens which lights up the inside panel.

    I aligned them left-right using a cross-projecting laser level aligned to the front and rear wheels. The inner "elbow" is aligned to straight ahead. The lower cutoff is 2” down from level at 23'6" forward from the headlights (garage faces the alley, made a pretty convenient aiming surface). This is equivalent to 2-1/8” down at 25'. Headlights are 38-1/2" above ground level. That projects (on level ground) out to ~450'. This is probably too far. If I want the lower cutoff to project to 200' (~60m) I'd have to use 5" drop at 25'. What do you guys think?

    One issue is that the new projector lens to mounting bracket distance is smaller than the stock ones. The lens doesn't poke out of the housing. Side view:

    I'm wondering if I should space them out toward the housing lens. Would I lose less light due to reflection? I think that if I move it forward it will put the center of mass further forward of the axis of rotation of the mounting plate and cause some suspension-induced flexing of the mounting plate. It's pretty flimsy. I think it's a glass fiber reinforced polyethylene? Lightweight as well. Putting the original shroud on made the light dip in alignment a bit. Anyway, I'm fine with the way it looks, but if I'm losing light due to the lens distance I'd probably move it forward. I don't think I'm losing width, but it's possible there's some shading of the projector at extreme angles.

    Another thing is that I got a lens with anti reflective coating (reflections are green) and one without it. I saw a 4.7% increase in max lux on the AR lens. The color doesn't really seem too different but looks a little warmer shining on my closed garage door. Maybe a few degrees K. Anyway, the AR lens is in the passenger side housing. I didn't choose that, just how it worked out. Maybe I should put it in the driver's side?

    I have plans to put a small PTC electric heating element in the c-channel because I do a lot of driving in the snow at altitude. I just don't think the LED projector will throw enough heat to melt ice. I'm going to tie it to the fog lights, and have a bimetal thermostat in the housing somewhere. I'm also going to leave the incandescent parking/turn indicator light for a little more heat. Anyway, I'm going to reopen the headlights whenever the parts come in.

    I also put in some Diode Dynamics SS3 sport amber fog lights, if anyone wants some pictures of that as well.

  • #2
    i would try and get the projector mounted as far forwards as possible, youre loosing alot of width due to how far back it is.