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FAILED AT MY RETRO 😤

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  • 06BlkMax
    started a topic FAILED AT MY RETRO 😤

    FAILED AT MY RETRO 😤

    So I can't believe I failed on doing my retrofit of the 4TLrs. I had already taken apart even dealing with the PITA of baking my lights open. I really feel defeated on not completing my retro. Well, what I ended up doing was putting a couple of #8 washers on the OEM 4gen projectors. I must say just by adding 3 washers to the Len's holder pins made a huge difference from what I started with.

    Here's a couple of pictures of what I ran into.


  • satrya
    replied
    Originally posted by 06BlkMax View Post
    satrya Thank you so much for that! As long as I've been on this site, you are very knowledgeable and helpful!!
    You're welcome. Just passing along information I got from the forum. (plus a little of my own)

    Originally posted by 06BlkMax View Post
    With 3 #8 washers on the bottom pins. And I know the rotation is off a bit.
    Good progress then

    Leave a comment:


  • 06BlkMax
    replied
    Originally posted by Doc McStuffins View Post
    Buy coarse threaded standoffs. Even spacing on all 4 corners... i promise.
    usually used for mounting circuit boards, but they have larger sizes available
    With 3 #8 washers on the bottom pins. And I know the rotation is off a bit.

    This was with a tsx clear Len's and CBIs, output was garbage.

    Leave a comment:


  • Doc McStuffins
    replied
    Originally posted by satrya View Post
    This PSU, something inside a tower type desktop computer. It powers the computer's motherboard etc.. I suspect you could buy these for very low price online either new or salvaged from retired computers:
    https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/for...s-for-atx-type

    That thread is a simplified how to to make the PSU work for powering HID ballasts. I referenced Ocelaris' more comprehensive thread, which took longer for me to absorb because it applies for more types of PSU. As long as you get one that looks like what I posted in my thread above, the steps are a lot easier.
    Xbox power supplies are perfect for this stuff

    Leave a comment:


  • Doc McStuffins
    replied
    Buy coarse threaded standoffs. Even spacing on all 4 corners... i promise.
    usually used for mounting circuit boards, but they have larger sizes available
    Last edited by Doc McStuffins; August 27th, 2019, 05:13 PM. Reason: Added more info

    Leave a comment:


  • 06BlkMax
    replied
    satrya Thank you so much for that! As long as I've been on this site, you are very knowledgeable and helpful!!

    Leave a comment:


  • satrya
    replied
    This PSU, something inside a tower type desktop computer. It powers the computer's motherboard etc.. I suspect you could buy these for very low price online either new or salvaged from retired computers:
    https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/for...s-for-atx-type

    That thread is a simplified how to to make the PSU work for powering HID ballasts. I referenced Ocelaris' more comprehensive thread, which took longer for me to absorb because it applies for more types of PSU. As long as you get one that looks like what I posted in my thread above, the steps are a lot easier.

    Leave a comment:


  • 06BlkMax
    replied
    Originally posted by satrya View Post

    Wait.. DC to AC inverter? I assume you're talking about testing projectors out of the vehicle, right? And I assume you want to include the HID ballasts in the test. So, why not a PC power supply unit (PSU)?
    Yes, that's exactly what I want to do. Test projector out of the car before I put things back together. I'm not familiar with "PSU" could you elaborate more on the power supply unit. Sorry I've never done this before.

    Leave a comment:


  • satrya
    replied
    Wait.. DC to AC inverter? I assume you're talking about testing projectors out of the vehicle, right? And I assume you want to include the HID ballasts in the test. So, why not a PC power supply unit (PSU)?

    Leave a comment:


  • 06BlkMax
    replied
    Originally posted by satrya View Post
    Hard to see from the pictures. As long as the headlight housing is secured and you have a far enough wall for aiming, it should be ok.
    https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/for...-power-station

    Leave a comment:


  • satrya
    replied
    Originally posted by 06BlkMax View Post
    Can you comment on my post about the work station?
    Hard to see from the pictures. As long as the headlight housing is secured and you have a far enough wall for aiming, it should be ok.

    Leave a comment:


  • 06BlkMax
    replied
    It's a h11 halogen bulb in the DRL. But I'll definitely try that. Can you comment on my post about the work station?

    Leave a comment:


  • satrya
    replied
    If you try to shim the base of the LED, will you be able to find a position where the alignment is a bit better? If so, then you can epoxy a smooth base after you found where to tilt the base and how much wedge you need to tilt the base with.

    Leave a comment:


  • 06BlkMax
    replied
    Originally posted by satrya View Post
    Looking at the pictures; maybe I'm missing the context beyond information in this thread. Is the DRL a PnP on the high beam reflector? or is it the small area under the turn signal (which is also next to the headlight)?
    No. It sits directly besides the headlight. But I think I know what you're talkin about.... just below the DRL there are little "notches" that makes it look like it's DRL. At night time those notches look like there is a LED strip running across the headlight.....but it's not. It's just the light reflecting off those notches.

    Leave a comment:


  • satrya
    replied
    Originally posted by th23 View Post
    The DRL on the 4G TL uses the reflector halogen high beam at reduced voltage.
    In that case, 06BlkMax ; could one of the LED units be different from the other? Swap and see?

    Leave a comment:

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