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Morimoto D2S 4.0 VS G5-R Projector Output Shot Comparison

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  • #91
    Originally posted by lowfat View Post
    I tried to state on Headlight Junkies that width on projectors is mostly useless. They fought me hard. Unless you are driving like 10kmh all the light to the far sides is indeed useless. A) the animals or what not is either too far away so you don't need to react or B) the animal is too close and you'll hit it anyways, whether you saw it or not. It is just like foreground, false comfort.
    Originally posted by Haloruler64 View Post
    Disagree. Very important for sub-40 MPH driving. Not LS430 levels of course, but shitty width to me makes an uncomfortable driving experience. Again, you don't need much... but all the width of the RX350 halogens is concentrated into points up high and makes foreground lighting nonexistent. Horrible for turns in the city as you can't see pedestrians or animals in dark areas. On you're on the highway it's not important at all.
    Originally posted by bnevets27 View Post
    I find it kind of funny the arguments for what's is "the best". Honestly for some things it's dependent on a lot of factors. And more or less width is definitely dependent on where and how your drive. Personally for where and how I drive at the moment I prefer width over distance. Basically back road driving, with reasonable amount of turns. Therefore not fast enough to need distance but definitely need to see things coming out of the forest. Even if the animal is coming out right in front of the car, even seeing it a split second sooner may give you a better chance of not hitting it. The other one I see talked about is the high beam shooting up too high. Sure on flat ground that's a waste but when aproching a hill it lights up the top and over a bit, rather than being dark until you've crested the hill. But if you are driving on flat highways then a focused beam/bright hotspot is more adventageous. Thankfully when retrofitting you get to make that choice.
    All three of these are great posts, and as bnevets27 said it best there, "when retrofitting, you get to make that choice". There is no blanket "golden rule" about which projector you should use, that's why there are so many options. You just have to design a setup that works according to your needs. My needs are all over the place, that's why I like to balance distance and width. Yes, the LS430s were wonderful when turning corners in dark residential streets (like the one I live on) but on highways, I want brighter light down the road than the LS430s provide. So now, I just take a "hit" on dark-corner turning at my home street, for the benefit on the highway. And as bnevets27 said, having the higher hot spot in the highbeams is wonderful on hills, as I have benefitted from myself. But, I don't drive hills enough to need that, so while having the D2S 4.0 high beam was great on my mountain driving, it's useless in my normal driving, so I went with the lower hotspot.

    nd of course, it doesn't stop at retrofitting. Most of these situations are when you're alone on the road, so you can use any lights you want. That's why aux LED lights are helpful, so you can have extra light at the sides or down the road or everywhere if you choose. Again, it's just all about what the individual person wants, there's no one right answer for everyone.

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    • #92
      I see people are discussing adjusting the cutoff shield to move the hotspot. I don’t have any of the projectors noted in this thread, but I have a set or TYC OEM replacement projector assemblies on my Ram 1500 that has the issue of the gap between the steps on the left and right beams, and it appears to be partially caused because the hotspot is below the step when looking at them on the road in the distance. If I decide to open them up, I might just replace the projectors with a pair of the G5’s, but if cutoff shields can be adjusted on any projector, that would obviously be a cheaper fix (no need to buy different bulbs/harnesses/projectors). I’ll try to google it, but any advice on how to adjust the shield? Thanks in advance and apologies if this post is too off topic.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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      • #93
        They have halogen projectors. Open it up and throw those in the bin, put some good HID projectors in.

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        • #94
          Originally posted by evo77 View Post
          Thank you Gold! I have discovered the problem. Yes I bought'em from Lightwerkz. I went and put a bubble level to ensure the projector was perfectly horizontal. Then I fired it up. I aimed the beam on my test wall slightly above the H-line so it's easy to see if the cutoff is straight.
          ِIs it the G5R h4 quick retro version or the OEM version with plastic bulb holder

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          • #95
            bumping this thread! So I was doing a retrofit on 2 vehicles, my 2016 Ram and my parents motorhome which uses a 7" headlight. I read all the reviews, and went against my better judgement using the G5-R over the D2s 4.0. I have always used morimoto in the past, but it seemed like the G5-R was a "better" version over the d2s 4.0. It seemed better in every way, including price.

            I'm not exactly pleased.Well, not completely displeased, but I wish I bought 1 pair of each to compare myself. Brightness and width is decent on the G5-R, but the cutoff is so curved it would make a flat-earther second guess their beliefs. At the hotspot area it's pretty straight, but the further away you get, the more curved it gets. Compared to my mini h1 7.0 in my trailblazer retrofit, the g5-r is VERY curved. Everything else with the g5-r's seem okay, but I'm not happy about how curved the cutoff gets toward the outsides.

            It was like this on all 4 projectors too, so it wasn't just one that was bad.

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            • #96
              Where did you get them?

              2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder
              2017 Lexus CT200h F Sport

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              • #97
                Honestly you don't notice it when driving, it's so far off to the periphery and so dim when driving that it's a non issue.
                2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'
                1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4E 'mom-mobile'

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                • #98
                  Originally posted by Haloruler64 View Post
                  Where did you get them?
                  Lightwerkz

                  Originally posted by Bitter View Post
                  Honestly you don't notice it when driving, it's so far off to the periphery and so dim when driving that it's a non issue.
                  I do lol. Mainly because on my truck the headlights are pretty high up, so I see the edges often. They are aimed correctly as well, but I see the cutoff curve constantly. Especially now that it "bothers" me haha.

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                  • #99
                    Ok, that makes sense then.
                    2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'
                    1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4E 'mom-mobile'

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                    • Well, get the other projectors and compare them and see how it goes and report back!

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                      • Time for custom curved shields maybe?
                        2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'
                        1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4E 'mom-mobile'

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                        • anybody feels that fxr 2.0 or 3.0 seems like a better option?

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