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Need help wiring switchback strip to existing parking lights/turn signal

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  • Need help wiring switchback strip to existing parking lights/turn signal

    Hi all,


    I recently finished doing my retrofit project, and am installing the housings on my car tomorrow. I'm wondering how I'll wire my LED switchback strips and halos so that they'll turn on with the parking lights.


    My halos have a red and black wire, while my switchback strips have red, black and yellow wires. I figured I could just splice into my existing parking light wires. Looking at my parking light wires, there's a red/black wire, red/green wire, and plain green wire - Which is which? Here's a pic:





    Also, two other questions; Will my parking light wires not provide 100% electricity to my strip and halos? From reading around on the forums, some people are saying that the parking lights are only 30% brightness to allow for 100% brightness when the turn signal is on.. is this true? If so, will the LEDs be affected? 2nd, these lights won't overload the circuit and melt the wires, right? They're LEDs, so shouldn't draw hardly anything.


    Is there possibly another, maybe better, way to wire these? I'm open to ideas.


    Thanks
    Last edited by alexjames23; April 17th, 2015, 11:30 PM.

  • #2


    I mounted my assemblies to my car and everything looks great except my LED strips refuse to work. I found out the correct wiring by using a multimeter to find which wire does steady parking light, and which does turn signal - Solid green is steady parking and red/green is turn signal. I wired my strip wires accordingly, tripe checked them, and they won't turn on. I know the strip works because I can tap the strip wires to a 9V battery and they work exactly like they're supposed to.. What's going on? What am I missing?

    If anyone has ANY ideas, drop a reply.

    Thx so much.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    • #3
      You might not be getting a good connection with the taps you're using. Try stripping the insulation off before you snap the taps into place and see if that works. I always cut the plastic off first because I've had horrible luck with the "self tapping" connections.

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      • #4
        ^^ Ditto I had led turn signals on my last car and I had the resistors connected with vampire connectors and one side would intermittently hyperflash, sometimes even as i'm in the middle of a turn it would change from normal to hyper or vice-versa. Until I cut the wires and used good ol' fashioned butt connectors.
        2006 Chevy Cobalt - SRX Bi-xenon/Denso 35w
        2011 GMC Terrain V6 - 4TL-R retrofit

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        • #5
          Originally posted by FSanti87 View Post
          ^^ Ditto I had led turn signals on my last car and I had the resistors connected with vampire connectors and one side would intermittently hyperflash, sometimes even as i'm in the middle of a turn it would change from normal to hyper or vice-versa. Until I cut the wires and used good ol' fashioned butt connectors.
          Hmmmm did you wire them into your parking lights? I don't see how I could use butt connectors because I'm tapping into my parking light wires.. There's no end to the cables.

          Thx guys


          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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          • #6
            I solder everything now because those quick connect things are more of a pain in my rear than they are worth. Solder + heatshrink takes me longer but I know it'll work...

            Alex: You could strip the insulation, solder on a new length of wire and then use the butt connector on that. So you'll end up with a "Y" shaped wire and one of the top points of the Y will be a bare wire.

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            • #7
              Okay I think I'll give that a try, just have to make sure I'm super careful when I strip away the insulation.


              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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