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Simultaneous high and low beam for a previously H4 powered headlight

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  • #61
    My HD Relay harnesses power my H7 and H1 halogen bulbs at the moment just fine.

    I bought 2x H7 harnesses and swapped the H7 plugs for H4 plugs as they fit better to the OEM plugs, which are 2-wire H4 plugs. The bulbs take H4<->H7 and H4<->H1 adapters for it all to work. Yay Mitsubishi.


    OEM halogen reflector headlights | Osram Rallye H7 65W low beams | Philips Vision H1 55W high beams | Pre-facelift orange indicators

    Retrofits in progress: MDX LED retrofit | RX350/EvoX-R quad w/'moto HD relay, Mitsubishi gen4 ballasts and selectable quad wiring (needs lots of fixing)

    My retrofits

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    • #62
      Good to know, I'll consider installing my H7 harness soon. Just for a faster warm up time, the Denso ballasts definitely benefit from the extra power. Just not looking forward to splicing into the fuse box power feed...

      2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder
      2017 Lexus CT200h F Sport

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      • #63
        Yeah I think you're overthinking it (well last night). Your setup now works fine.

        The motocontrol might not be able to power halogens, but the regular harness can.

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        • #64
          Yeah eff it lol, keeping what I have and maybe installing my H7 harness soon just for the extra power to the ballasts.

          2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder
          2017 Lexus CT200h F Sport

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          • #65
            Originally posted by Haloruler64 View Post
            Got another response.

            "The splitter plugs into the stock connector and splits out to the halogen high beam and then to the harness input. On the other side, the adapter plugs into the stock connector and then to the high beam bulb. High beam flashing will still flash with the stock high beams, but with the low beams off if you flash to pass, the HID ballasts would turn on for that period and then right back off."

            That makes perfect sense, unfortunately that's exactly how my setup works right now. So no point buying anything.

            Also I didn't know that the TRS harnesses can't power halogen high beams. Does this also apply to the H7 harness I currently have? If I happened to install it, would the 9005 plugs power my halogen highs?

            EDIT: I just realized how stupid of a question that last question was. I already have factory high beam wiring going to the bulbs, I don't need the harness for high beams.... I'm way too tired for this lol.
            Since there is factory high beam going to the bulbs, normally shouldn't it power the high beams without turn off the low beams? Also, have you had any luck with this? I ask because the car that I'm working on has H4 bulbs and I want to install aftermarket headlights that have H1 bulbs and I'm having difficulty figuring out how to keep the low beams on when turning on the high beams on rural roads...

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            • #66
              I switched from 00-02 H4 headlights to 03+ H7 + 9005 headlights so yes, on a factory car they would not turn off, but on mine they do. I just ended up soldering the relay together that controls this. Ghetto, don't recommend it.

              2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder
              2017 Lexus CT200h F Sport

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              • #67
                Originally posted by Haloruler64 View Post
                I switched from 00-02 H4 headlights to 03+ H7 + 9005 headlights so yes, on a factory car they would not turn off, but on mine they do. I just ended up soldering the relay together that controls this. Ghetto, don't recommend it.
                Do you mean your factory car light relay? Or did you add in another relay and applied this?

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                • #68
                  Yeah I added a wire bridging two parts of the factory relay.

                  2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder
                  2017 Lexus CT200h F Sport

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                  • #69
                    The easy way to wire this is by usingyour park light to trigger the low beam relay. Highs will function normally., and the HID's won't suht off while using high beam, nor will the low beam turn on your highbeams.

                    Alternatively, you can do what you did but bridge the high to the low beam relay with a diode. AFAIK this is exactly what the moto controller is. I prefer the park light method because it also disables DRLS.

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                    • #70
                      I put together this:

                      Independent lows and highs. Low off, you can flash highs without triggering lows. Simply putting diode between low and high plugs will give you both when you hit the highs.

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                      • #71
                        Originally posted by niZmO_Man View Post
                        I put together this:

                        Independent lows and highs. Low off, you can flash highs without triggering lows. Simply putting diode between low and high plugs will give you both when you hit the highs.

                        That's how I use to do it, but see my post above about simply just using the park lights to trigger the low beams. It will save you a few relays, and a diode.

                        Logic here is with H13/H4 lights prior to modification:

                        Switch off - all lights are off
                        Switch to park lights (one indent over) - park lights on, low beams off, high beams off
                        Switch to low beam - park lights on, low beams on
                        High beam engaged - park lights are still on when high beams are on, factory low beam wire is off.

                        This allows you to keep all of your factory wiring intact and using an H4 or H13 splitter you can simply tap into the new projector highbeam solenoid and leave the low beam disconnected. I cut into the park light circuit and run that to my low beam relay. This requires only one (or two) relays for your ballasts and nothing else, no diodes, etc. The other advantage is that usually the park light circuits aren't can-bus fussy, PWM, and are more reliable in my experience.

                        The only downside is, you won't be able to turn on park lights independently but who does that anyways... Not in my 17 years of driving have I ever drove around like that. Additionally, if you have factory DRL's on the high beam then those will still work without burning out your hid's. If you have factory DRL on low beam it disables it. Personally, I'd run the DRL-1 module and use the turn signals as the DRL's, or use some LED accents.
                        Last edited by kelaog1; December 3rd, 2019, 09:37 AM.

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                        • #72
                          Yeah my 30 year old Skylines don't have DRLs. Plus I don't mind the extra relays, just plug into H4 and away you go.

                          Multiple solutions to a "problem". The main point is we share it here, like the good old days aye (instead of trying to sell it on Facegram or whatever).

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                          • #73
                            Originally posted by Haloruler64 View Post
                            Yeah I added a wire bridging two parts of the factory relay.
                            Regarding a change like this for canbus cars, is there also a chance the car's body control module to restrict this? For example, to read it like it's got a dimmed light or faulty light?

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                            • #74
                              Oh if it's CANBUS I wouldn't do it. No idea how it would mess it up. My car has no CANBUS... or any bulb monitoring.

                              2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder
                              2017 Lexus CT200h F Sport

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                              • #75
                                Originally posted by Haloruler64 View Post
                                I switched from 00-02 H4 headlights to 03+ H7 + 9005 headlights so yes, on a factory car they would not turn off, but on mine they do. I just ended up soldering the relay together that controls this. Ghetto, don't recommend it.
                                Something I forgot to ask. Did you use a diode?

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