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2006 Honda Accord Bi-xenon Wiring

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  • 2006 Honda Accord Bi-xenon Wiring

    I am installing Morimoto mini DS2 projectors and I have a couple of wiring issues. My model has DRLs that double as Hi beams. How do I wire it so my bi-xenon solenoid gets voltage when I select Hi-beam from the cabin but doesn't get voltage the whole time the car is running from the DRL circuit? I would also like to have a LEDs (halos, strips or a combination) be my DRLs instead. How would I tap into the DRL circuit without tapping into the Hi-beam circuit? Lastly should I have my LED DRLs shutoff when my projectors (Hi or Lo) are running? Is that too much light? Thanks for anyone who may help!

  • #2
    DRL are 6-8v depending on car. so it could trip the highbeam solenoid in either your relay, or in the projector. what most do on here is disable the DRL then run a the relay harness off your ignition to your ballast and wire the oem cars highbeam wires directly to the highbeam solenoid on the projector.
    Octa projectors, eight OEM bulbs, ~30,000lm , and 169 degrees of driving heaven!

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    • #3
      I see what your sayisng. Problem is the Accord will give off a dash warning light when the DRL fuse is pulled. Is there a way to "uncombine" the DRL/HI circuits? In other words use the DRL circuit just for the new LEDs and then the HI beam circuit for the solenoid?

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      • #4
        interesting, in most cars when a bulb dies, or is not connected the DRL is illuminated on the dash, but if you pull the 5A fuse under the steering wheel that illuminated DRL on the dash will go away.
        Octa projectors, eight OEM bulbs, ~30,000lm , and 169 degrees of driving heaven!

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        • #5
          Yep.

          http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=21583

          I get a lot of half answers doing research on this stuff but no one seems post gives me everything. I can't even get a reply from TRS. I promise when I'm done I'm going to post a step by step that includes "THE WIRING". Installing the projectors is the easy part.

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          • #6
            Personally the best way to run this is either have a DRL bypass (mini circuit that just takes voltages less than 8V and causes those signals not to pass, however 12V will pass) using this in conjunction with splitters the solenoid wires will not get power with DRL, and high beams will still be DRL ready and high beam ready.

            This relay harness costs 40 bucks on ebay and only 1 seller has this. I personally have built the same circuit (concept wise) and can build them, but definitely wouldn't charge 40 bucks for a harness haha.

            Another option is to use a relay to have the solenoids disconnected when low beams are off, and when low beams are on the solenoid connects the highbeams to solenoid.

            options options options.

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            • #7
              Hey when you remove the DRL fuse you don't get the DRL light on the dash. I have an 2010 accord with my DRL fuse removed. You only get the DRL light when your fuse is in but you connect an HID in high beam socket or something that requires more power than DRL

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Str2010 View Post
                Hey when you remove the DRL fuse you don't get the DRL light on the dash. I have an 2010 accord with my DRL fuse removed. You only get the DRL light when your fuse is in but you connect an HID in high beam socket or something that requires more power than DRL
                thats what i said, and thats the case with 99% of cars on the road. but apparently a 2006 honda accord is "different"......
                Octa projectors, eight OEM bulbs, ~30,000lm , and 169 degrees of driving heaven!

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