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Backup light manual override switch ?

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  • Backup light manual override switch ?

    Hello All,

    I was wondering if someone know the basic schematics to wire up a switch so you can turn on / off the reverse light on tap. I'm planning to use the Morimoto driving lights as my reverse lights and thus eliminate the factory ones completely. I know these will be insanely bright so I want to have a switch where I can turn them off when not needed anymore. Usually when I parallel park, it takes me a good minute and the last thing I want to do is blind the traffic behind me. I don't plan to use this to flash people who tail gates me because that's just stupid and could possibly causing an accident and delay traffic.

    Here's a few that I found, sorry the pictures are really low resolution, I saved it up snipping tool and shrunk them down for my word file.









    Thanks for all the future advice(s) / help !

  • #2

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    • #3
      You make it way more complicated then what it needs to be... wow

      Two wires. One ground. Other positive (12v). In the 12V line, place a fuse between battery and switch on dash.

      That's a lot of wire to run.. probably about close to 35' of wire.

      Further more..you'd be better off with fusion projector fog lamps (halogen) and just use factory reverse light wiring. Because I assume you want to use HID but want to avoid the constant on/off part of it
      Last edited by BrokenVisaCard; January 12th, 2013, 12:55 PM.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by xator View Post
        Wow it's so much simpler now ! I thought I needed a diode or something but this is a lot simpler thanks ! Did you make the drawing too ?

        Originally posted by BrokenVisaCard View Post
        You make it way more complicated then what it needs to be... wow

        Two wires. One ground. Other positive (12v). In the 12V line, place a fuse between battery and switch on dash.

        That's a lot of wire to run.. probably about close to 35' of wire.

        Further more..you'd be better off with fusion projector fog lamps (halogen) and just use factory reverse light wiring. Because I assume you want to use HID but want to avoid the constant on/off part of it
        Is the wiring schematic pretty close to Xator's suggestion ? I was planning on getting the morimoto bars to mount vertically along my license plate frame because I'm using the OE reverse light spot for rear fog lights. HID was an option but after thinking about it, it's just too bulky and the reflector in the taillights won't do it any good.

        My car is a bare shell right now so wiring something like this is simple compare to the other wiring I'm doing at the moment.

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        • #5
          Yes i draw it in paint.
          If you find the reverse wire in the running board, you dont need to add a wire to the back of the car, you will run LED's right?
          That way it's pretty much just under dash work.

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          • #6
            I appreciate the effort and thanks for the drawing! My entire taillight assembly will be made out of LED's and when you refer to running board, did you mean the reverse wire ?

            So just to clarify, the "from backup circuit" I get that from the positive wire that turns on the factory reverse light. "Reverse lights" that's the output to the morimoto ?

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            • #7
              A slightly more complicated suggestion (relative to BVC's), and something that I've done in the past, is leave the oem reverse light as is, and then tap the oem reverse light as the signal source for +12 & ground on an aux relayed switch. The power side of the relay connects the battery to the aux reverse lights. In my case, they were 35W halogen lights. In your case, it would route to the ballasts.

              So, when the aux switch is off, the oem reverse lights works as it should.
              When the aux switch is on, and the vehicle is in reverse, both oem and aux reverse works.
              When the aux switch is off, and the vehicle is not in reverse, both are off.

              Only 1 oem reverse light wiring needs to be tapped.
              Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

              3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by just_dung View Post
                I appreciate the effort and thanks for the drawing! My entire taillight assembly will be made out of LED's and when you refer to running board, did you mean the reverse wire ? YES

                So just to clarify, the "from backup circuit" I get that from the positive wire that turns on the factory reverse light. YES
                "Reverse lights" that's the output to the morimoto ? YES
                Depending on how many leds the factory wire should be good up to 40 watts or so safely.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by satrya View Post
                  A slightly more complicated suggestion (relative to BVC's), and something that I've done in the past, is leave the oem reverse light as is, and then tap the oem reverse light as the signal source for +12 & ground on an aux relayed switch. The power side of the relay connects the battery to the aux reverse lights. In my case, they were 35W halogen lights. In your case, it would route to the ballasts.

                  So, when the aux switch is off, the oem reverse lights works as it should.
                  When the aux switch is on, and the vehicle is in reverse, both oem and aux reverse works.
                  When the aux switch is off, and the vehicle is not in reverse, both are off.

                  Only 1 oem reverse light wiring needs to be tapped.
                  satrya, I think that may work, can you help by providing a drawing ? I'm just using the OE reverse wire as a signal for the relay and use the Morimoto driving lights as reverse lights. I didn't want to take the risk of running them without a relay just to be on the safe side. I'm thinking they're under 20W for both bars.

                  Thanks in advance.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by xator View Post
                    Depending on how many leds the factory wire should be good up to 40 watts or so safely.
                    xator I'm thinking they'll be under 20W as each bulb is about 1W I assume.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by just_dung View Post
                      satrya, I think that may work, can you help by providing a drawing ? I'm just using the OE reverse wire as a signal for the relay and use the Morimoto driving lights as reverse lights. I didn't want to take the risk of running them without a relay just to be on the safe side. I'm thinking they're under 20W for both bars.
                      I used to have a build thread in another forum. In the meantime;

                      Assume you have routed battery positive to the back of your vehicle, plus some chassis ground or battery ground. I'm going to call these B+ and B-
                      Assume you have a power relay (the common ones used in aux light harness). I'm going to call the power side pins RP1 & RP2. One of these (doesn't matter which one, should be labeled pin 87. The signal side are RS1 & RS2.
                      Assume you have a switch. Lit switches have more than 2 pins. The most important part are the 2 that connect the circuit; the 3rd one is usually for the bulb. Call the 2 main pins S1 & S2.

                      Access your tail light, and using a multimeter, find the pin that goes +12 when the gear is in reverse. Label this R1.

                      For each of your LED bar, you have 2 pins. L1 & L2.

                      On the signal side:
                      Connect R1 to S1 (switch); this is probably a very long cable that goes from the trunk all the way to your dashboard
                      Connect S2 (switch) to RS1 (signal side relay); this goes from your dashboard back to the trunk
                      Connect RS2 (signal side relay) to B- or any chassis ground. I'm assuming the relay is in the trunk, somewhere close to either the LED bar or the oem tail light cluster.

                      On the power side:
                      Connect B+ (battery) to RP1 (power side relay); this goes from the engine bay, through the firewall, through the side sill, into the trunk
                      Connect RP2 (power side relay) to L1 (LED bar).
                      Connect L2 (LED bar) to B- or any chassis ground

                      That should be it.
                      Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

                      3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

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                      • #12
                        So I drew up a diagram using your labeling system, I hope it's the right diagram.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by just_dung View Post
                          So I drew up a diagram using your labeling system, I hope it's the right diagram.
                          Looks good. You even drew a slightly less common relay with the "always closed" pin 87a (I use these for my 3 way quad wiring)
                          The only thing I can't say for sure is the power source to the switch' light bulb. Depending on the wiring of that bulb, S1 and S2 may need to be swapped.

                          Since you need to route power wire to the trunk anyway, how about installing a backup camera connected to the R1 pin too?
                          Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

                          3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

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                          • #14
                            If S1 and S2 needs to be swap, that will be an easy task. Most likely the back up camera will be wired up to the R1 pin as well.

                            My battery will be where by back seats are located. The whole car is getting rewired for all the extra stuff I'm adding so that's why I'm working on little bits and pieces here and there. My car is a shell right now getting ready for a complete color change so I figure I clean up the wiring.

                            Thanks for the help Satrya and Xator !

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                            • #15
                              I see. I assume these are not the conventional lead acid battery then, since outgassing makes it undesirable for in cabin relocation. Pics would be interesting.
                              Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

                              3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

                              Comment

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