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H13 Mopar Spec / Help with Stand Alone Canbus

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  • H13 Mopar Spec / Help with Stand Alone Canbus

    Im looking for help on my 2013 Mini Cooper R60 Countryman. It is factory Halogen equipped. I have retrofitted HID projectors and am using the H13 Mopar Spec Bi-Xenon harness. With the assumption and expectation that the dual resistors and single capacitor will resolve and prevent canbus \ pulsing voltage \ bulb out errors. However after installation of the retrofit, when you start the car, the low beam fires up for like 5-10 seconds, then goes off and quickly fires on and off and on and off again. Then presenting low\high beam bulb fault warnings on the dash. My assumption is this is part of the car computers bulb check process it does at startup. It was my understanding that the resistors and capacitor would trick the computer to make look like all your normal halogen bulbs were present and normal.

    However that doesnt seem to be the case. I read online that a while back someone was doing a MINI too and they said Matt from TRS built them a custom harness. Not sure if it was something specific to a H13 OEM Halogen MINI or if it was just before Morimoto made these specific expensive H13 Mopar harnesses. I've spoke with TRS via chat and was told that I probably needed the pair of Stand alone Canbus modules thrown into the mix with my setup. I guess I can see how they might solve the problem but I dont want to be spending random money for parts based on assumptions. Definitely when the rep didn't seem too convincing and that its my understanding that the Mopar harness I have with the resistors and capacitor are doing the same thing the stand alone canbus modules are doing. I'm hoping to understand and find definite answer to know whats going on and what should definitely be done to resolve. There is another alternative which is modifying the cars computer parameters to stop doing the bulb checks, but i really want to do that as a last resort based on the complexity and process of doing that. (more on this discussion later below).

    Here's a video below I made of the problem in action when you start the car. Regardless of the Low beam projector issue at hand. Also notice the two ProfilePrism Halo rings also faintly flash their amber chips real quick a few times. While i'm not too concerned with that at this time. My assumption is that, that may be happening because the mini is also checking the turn signal bulbs presence as well. The stock halogen turn signal bulbs are still present, which is probably why i get no errors about that on the cars dash. I just also wired the Halo drivers negative and positive amber turn signal function internally to the turn signal bulb circuit. That's my only guess why they do that when the car starts as the MINI runs it bulb checks or something.

    Now onto my wiring and the need to help understanding these Stand Alone Canbus Adapters. Assuming it makes sense and this is deemed what I need. First off, when looking at the Stand Alone Canbus wiring install\instruction pdf, i'm a little confused on exactly what scenario i'm supposed to be following. They have 3 scenarios(Internally wired, Externally and Dual-filament). Now obviously Dual filament is what the car is\was when it was stock. But not with this retrofit, so i'm a little confused there. I want to describe and then also show with the diagram that I made below how I wired these retrofitted lights.

    My drivers side light basically has two different connections\wires coming out of it. My AMP connectors from the HID bulb, and a 9006 plug which is the high beam going to the solenoid.

    My passenger side light has the same thing, with the additional OEM H13 female connector that originally would of been going to the OEM Halogen H13 bulb on the inside. This is now routed out the back side of this light so it can be used as the trigger source to the H13 harness.(With that being said, the same H13 OEM plug is NOT being used\plugged into anything on the drivers side light since you only need one side to trigger the relay. Wouldn't this cause bulb check\errors no matter what the harness setup is?).

    Now onto the H13 harness I'm using as i mentioned previously. The harness is quite simple as i understand it. You basically have two 9006 female output plugs that each go into a ballast. You have two 9006 female output plugs that each connect to the 9006 high beams coming out of the lights. And lastly you have the H13 input trigger connector that in this case connects to the OEM H13 female connector coming out of the passenger side which triggers the entire relay.

    Here is basically how my setup is...

    From the one TRS representative, it is my understanding that the Stand Alone Canbus modules should be inserted between the harness and the ballast on both sides. If that's the case I would assume I would need the 9005/9006/9012/H10 connection configuration when ordering them. I'm also a little confused though because if you look at some of the specs\details of the product it says its not supposed to be used with a relay harness?
    Last edited by emerica243; September 10th, 2019, 10:20 AM.

  • #2
    Soooo after hours and hours of searching web. I think I found my answer I need to go with. And I think that easiest\safest answer is using the BimmerCode app to quickly and easily disable the bulb checks.

    But can anyone still confirm, arent the resistors in this harness setup performing the same thing the Stand Alone Canbus adapters would do? Which is just absorbing extra wattage to simulate the halogen bulb in the car? Hence preventing \ tricking the Canbus system from thinking theres a bulb error?