Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Demon Eye Timer

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Sounds good, keep us updated.

    You could add another feature possibly. If your car unlocks the doors with a positive pulse then you could also use that to also trigger the demon eyes on when you unlock the car. Just find the wire that goes 12v + when you hit the unlock button, run it to the blue wire on the timer with a diode to prevent the IGN power being feed back into the unlock wire.

    Nice idea of using the demon eyes with the car off like this. I couldn't think of when you could ever use them as you technically (at least here) can't have them on when driving so this is an interesting use of them.

    Comment


    • #17
      I have gone through and updated the wiring diagram to look more like a schematic for easier use. After some thought, I am going to be adding a switch in the cabin for the demon eyes, so power would run to the switch before the timer.

      The demon eyes are currently not bright at all only pulling 5.16 volts instead of the 12 volts I was expecting. After some experimentation last night, I found the issue is the connection to the terminal in the fuse box. This has kind of perplexed me as when I put the multi-meter into the same terminal, I am getting around 12 volts, but the demon eyes are only pulling 5.16 volts. After connecting the demon eyes directly to the battery, they are substantially brighter! Which is why I have decided to add a switch inside the cabin so I can switch them off if necessary, since it appears that red and blue demon eyes are illegal to be used on the road regardless if they flash. It also appears that during vehicle inspection if accent lights are not able to be controlled from inside the cabin, it can cause you to fail inspection.

      I have also decided to add a 2.5 Amp inline fuse, for piece of mind. After some research it appears that 18 gauge wire should be limited to 3 Amps, and after checking the draw of the demon eyes (plugged into the battery for the full 12.85 volts) I got a reading of 1.4 mA (or at least I believe since I got 1.4 on my multi-meter when set to 200m).

      I do like your idea of connecting them to the door unlock so that they turn on when I unlock the car. In that case... would I be tying in two trigger wires to the blue connection of the timer, but running a diode inline from the door locks?

      https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zx8...ew?usp=sharing

      Comment


      • #18
        Wiring diagram is much better. And you were close but the way you had it wired would have had the demon eyes on when the headlights were on. And the trigger would only have triggered when turning the headlights on then off.

        I updated it for you. Check my work though. I don't take any responsibility for it. The diode should be shown in the correct direction, current should only flow in the direction of the arrow (make sure its wired correctly). IGN is any 12v source that is 12v with the car running and 0v with the car off. Which would have been the wire you had running to leg 30 previously.

        So the demon eyes will come on with headlights off. They will turn off with headlights on. And they will stay off after the car is turned off for the programed time. They will also come on and stay on for the programmed time when the car is unlocked and will turn off if you start the car and turn the headlights on. And they can be disabled anytime via the switch you are now installing inside the cabin.

        Comment


        • #19
          I do see my error, thanks for pointing that out!! With my previous sketch leg 85 would have been always active, keeping the demon eyes permanently off, because when pole leg 85 is active, leg 87 is active, and leg 87 is left empty. When leg 85 is not active, leg 30 and leg 87a become active, so headlights turned off, demon eyes turn on. With your current drawing, the demon eyes would only be triggered when the door locks are activated, or when the ignition is turned off assuming I program the timer to be triggered (blue wire) on low voltage.

          Or wait... if I am reading the delay timer instructions correctly, leg 30 would be powered the entire time that the car is on (assuming the switch is on), and then will remain on for the timer duration once the trigger loses power. Is that the way you understand the timer instructions as well? So when the headlights are off, leg 85 is dead, leg 30 is active and the demon eyes are on. I think I follow your logic, good catch!!

          In that case, how do I determine the size diode to use?

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by Crawler45 View Post
            Or wait... if I am reading the delay timer instructions correctly, leg 30 would be powered the entire time that the car is on (assuming the switch is on), and then will remain on for the timer duration once the trigger loses power. Is that the way you understand the timer instructions as well? So when the headlights are off, leg 85 is dead, leg 30 is active and the demon eyes are on. I think I follow your logic, good catch!!

            In that case, how do I determine the size diode to use?
            You got it. This retains your current functionality and adds the features you want.

            As for diode size "anything" should be fine as its only being used for a trigger. But you can get 1/3/6/10 amp diodes all for a few cents so just grab whatever you can get your hands on, overkill is fine.
            Ebay

            Comment


            • #21
              Awesome, thanks again for your help in working this out! I'm kind of excited to get this all wired up now! I'm planning on using a 2 pin SPST switch, but I am still working my way through where I want to put the switch in the cabin, as I want to keep it as clean looking as possible.

              Comment


              • #22
                Any chance you have a home link mirror? Or buttons you can program to open a garage door?

                If so check this out: https://www.google.com/search?q=home...obile&ie=UTF-8

                You can get wireless relays you can control with homelink, pretty cheap and use that as a switch.
                Last edited by bnevets27; March 6th, 2019, 04:30 PM.

                Comment


                • #23
                  That's an awesome idea! I do have a home link mirror and that would make for a very clean install! My only worry regarding that, is how much draw the wireless switch would pull, in addition to the timer (in the off position). According to the timer info it draws 5mA while in the off position, which is minor and shouldn't cause an issue, but I will have to look into one of those wireless relays to see how much that draws, and possible look into adding a small led light to indicate when the wireless switch is active vs off.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Power the relay/wireless switch with the IGN source, as you'll only be using it while the car is running anyway. Wire it to NC so it will still let power flow when it looses power when you turn the car off.

                    The led is a good idea as yeah no indication of it the demon eye are on or off

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      If I end up wiring the relay/wireless switch in that manor though, I would only be able to disable the demon eyes if the car is on, once I shut the car off, the switch will return to NC and the demon eyes will be on. Don't get me wrong the reason I am doing all of this is so that I can have the demon eyes on as accent lighting, but I do like the idea of being able to shut the demon eyes off completely, if necessary.

                      So far from what I have found the wireless switches appear to draw near 80mAh's, which seems like a lot. But I get confused between say the timer says that in the off phase it draws 5mA's... does that mean it draws 5mAh's?

                      Basically I just want to make sure that by doing this I am not going to be adding parasitic drain to my car battery. an increase of 5mAh's isn't much and doesn't concern me since Subaru claims that 70mA's is the acceptable off drain. I haven't had time to test what my car's off Amp drain is, and plan to do so this weekend. If I end up adding 85mA's to the acceptable drain is a bit disconcerting.

                      Thank you again for your continued help!

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Yeah all that's true and agree with it.

                        If you just want to be able to kill them completely then you could always wire in a simple switch in addition to the wireless relay, that's under the hood or barried somewhere out of sight. The wireless thing was just to keep a clean interior.

                        And keeping on top of parasitic drain is smart. I added a few too many things and have had to back track and re-evaluate due to too much drain so I get the concern.

                        I think 5mA = 5mAh but I'm not sure.

                        I think its now up to you how you want to proceed. Each way has some pros and cons.

                        If you don't see yourself disabling them that often then don't bother with the wireless and try to hide the switch. If you think you'll rarely disable them completely then just add a manual switch hidden somewhere.

                        You could always just try it one way and see how often you want to disable them. It's pretty easy to make that change, you're only switching one wire.

                        Comment

                        Working...
                        X