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Troubleshooting Morimoto Elite Setup

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  • Troubleshooting Morimoto Elite Setup

    Greetings everyone,

    Creating this thread in hopes I might get some input that can help me troubleshoot my new Morimoto Elite HID setup I purchased for my fog lights. This is my first time attempting any type of install like this, so I want to make sure it's not a case of user error.

    Setup: Morimoto Elite H8
    • 2 x Morimoto 35w HD ballasts
    • 2 x Morimoto XB 3000K bulbs
    • 2 x Morimoto ignitors
    • 1 x Morimoto HD relay harness
    Vehicle: 2013 Infiniti FX50
    • Upgrading factory fog light bulbs to HID
    • Factory fog lights are externally wired
    Issue: Fog lights won't turn on after install
    1. Unpacked my new Morimoto Elite HID setup and all parts were accounted for, with the exception of mounting brackets for the ballasts
    2. Test fit all connections to make sure everything was in good working condition
    3. Using the supplied test lead, applied power through the ballast, ignitor and bulb to confirm all were in working order
    4. Both sets of ballasts/lights were flickering during the test, but I attributed this to the test leads not being securely connected to the battery
    5. Completed install of all aforementioned parts
    6. Fog lights will not turn on
    Granted, this is my first time attempting any type of HID/electrical installation on my vehicle, but I believe I followed the directions supplied by TRS correctly and with attention to detail.

    https://www.theretrofitsource.com/me...System-H11.pdf

    Since I confirmed that power supplied directly to the ballast will ignite the bulbs, this leads me to believe that power may not be making it to the harness. Or that the harness may not be properly routing the power to the ballasts. Or it could even be an issue with grounding.

    So I suppose my first question is, do the connections for power and ground in the pictures below look to be correct?




    Appreciate you taking the time to read this post and look forward to your input.

    -Sean

  • #2
    With the power inputs of the wiring harness connected to the battery as you shown, what happens if you supply + and - on the signal input of the wiring harness as well? Does it light up?

    A safe test would be to disconnect the ballast and the wiring harness (this should be a 9006 connector in most harnesses I've seen), but keep the power inputs of the wiring harness as you posted, and also keep the signal inputs of the wiring harness connected to the wiring for the foglight switch (as you intended). Then, with the engine on, test to see if the connector that would've supplied power to the ballast (that 9006) provides ~13V.
    Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

    3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

    Comment


    • #3
      Thank you for replying.

      So if I understand you correctly, to test that power (~13V) is actually making it from the battery and thru the relay harness, I should disconnect the ballast and check to see is the connector from the relay harness that would normally feed the ballast is supplying ~13V? Using a voltmeter?

      Comment


      • #4
        Yes. Keep the "OEM Input" connector that feeds off the OE foglight connector (to the OE fog bulb), keep the connection via the relays to the battery (and chassis ground or battery negative), disconnect what you labeled as "Test ~13V here".

        If the voltmeter registers +13V, then the harness works, and perhaps either the ballast or the bulb's connection is iffy enough that while the first battery test you mentioned worked (albeit with slight twitchiness), it might not make good enough contact. If the voltmeter registers -13V, then it is a matter of swapping the voltmeter leads to get +13. If no meaningful voltage is registered, then maybe the harness connection is not good enough; or perhaps the wiring harness' fuse is blown. Some OE fuse may also be blown.
        Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

        3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

        Comment


        • #5
          Appreciate the guidance. I'm picking up a voltmeter tomorrow and, if time allows, with attempt to troubleshoot this on Wednesday.

          Comment


          • #6
            Sometimes, the pin in a connector may not sit firmly enough, and the mating socket may be a bit wider, thus the electrical contact may not be as secure. Either the pin (in the male connector) or the socket (in the female connector) may also be slightly recessed, i.e. the wire gets pushed back.
            Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

            3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

            Comment


            • #7
              Update: I took my new voltmeter and put it to work today. Here are the results.

              1. Ensured that I had 13V at the point of connection for the fog light wiring harness



              2. Kept the connections to the battery intact, likewise with the connection between the harness and OEM input. Then hooked up the voltmeter to the connector from the harness that would have supplied power to the ballast (with the engine on).

              No measurable voltage.



              Immediately and with the exact same setup listed above, I connected the voltmeter to the OEM fog light input, just to validate that voltage is being read/measured accurately.

              OEM fogs were working just fine, so no worries here.

              Comment


              • #8
                The wiring harness should have a fuse. Is it in good condition? (you can test the fuse itself with the multimeter for connection; either use the ohm meter portion to see if the resistance is close to zero, or some other feature that makes a beep when there is electrical connection)
                Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

                3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

                Comment


                • #9
                  Yes, the fuse in-line with the wiring harness appears to be in good working condition. I tested it with the multimeter and resistance measured in at just about 0.1 ohms.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    It is possible that the harness is defective.
                    If there is a big connector (that has many pins) going to a controller box, check to see if that connector is properly connected (physically), and that there are no suspicious brown/burn marks on the pins.
                    Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

                    3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Work has been a little nutty this week, but I finally got a chance to inspect the harness up close. All connections appear to be firmly in place, no visible damage, and no brown/burn marks on the pins. Everything seems fine from the outside, but for some reason power still isn't making it through the harness. I believe at this point, I'm going to engage the Retrofit Source and inquire if they will supply me with a new harness to install/test.

                      Appreciate all the help with troubleshooting! I'll follow up once I have the new harness installed!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Oh, one more thing. Iirc, some harnesses have a diode soldered on one of the lines. I believe this is one way to provide power to the ballast during both low and high beam modes. I recall reading threads where the diode was soldered in the wrong direction. Desoldering and resoldering in the opposite direction solved the issue. If yours have a diode, it may be hidden in one of the wiring shrink wrap near the ends of some terminal or connector.
                        Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

                        3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Problem solved! I contacted TRS and spoke with Jimmy. I explained the situation and shared a link to this thread. After reviewing everything, Jimmy pointed out that there should be an adapter that fits in between the harness and the OEM input (not pictured in the manual or wiring diagram above). I rummaged thru the box and found the adapter, fit it into place, and voila! Fully functional fog lights!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            What is this adapter for? Do both ends have compatible connectors? Odd.
                            Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

                            3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I'd be willing to bet it's a canbus adapter

                              Comment

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