Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Any better alternatives to Morimoto H4 Motocontrol harness? These are horrible...

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Any better alternatives to Morimoto H4 Motocontrol harness? These are horrible...

    I know TRS sponsors this forum, so curious if this gets taken down... or they actually address this issue as needed.


    All the connectors leak, as the back seals are oversized for the ga of wire used, so they have massive gaps to let water and winter road salt in. Both on the ballast AND solenoid wires...

    The heat shrink on the main relay module is also super crap, with gaps and many places for water to enter.

    The 2nd harness failed for me at the relay connector, 1st harness failed first with the highbeam connectors then on the corroded 2-pin ballast connectors. Luckily I always have an electrical kit with me, so was able to power the ballasts direct off the battery with no switch or relay in the way. Had to continue the highway drive back into town, as a ~150km tow was the only other option except it was -15C and out of cell reception on a remote highway. Super dangerous -- lawsuit territory for sure if it had caused an accident or I had to spend the night on the side of the road.

    Sadly, there seem to be no better pre-made harnesses on the market to buy? Custom making one might be my only option?

    I resorted to buying a 3rd harness of this, and double bagging the relay/connector, and was going to hard wiring all the disconnects with marine adhesive sealed butt connectors, but the new XB55 ballasts have the connector cast into the case, so I can't hard-wire them anymore...


    I can't believe Morimoto gets away with selling these pieces of garbage? TRS claimed they have very few failures compared to how many are sold, but I can't be the only one having major issues, as even the 3rd harness I just received has the big gaps in the seals still. So so sloppy...

    Edit: Embedded photos got taken out? Here is a clean Google Drive link:
    https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...b1?usp=sharing
    Last edited by Dbatch; October 23rd, 2018, 02:02 AM.

  • #2
    They don't moderate this forum enough to take anything down haha. Yes the Motocontrol harnesses are known to have issues. Maybe not garbage, but the failure rate is disappointing. There is an alternative: Contact a company called DC Customs. They had their own H4 relay system built, I think based on XenonDepot harnesses? Either way hit them up.

    2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder
    2017 Lexus CT200h F Sport

    Comment


    • #3
      Make your own! Here's my wiring diagram (low and high independent)

      Comment


      • #4
        OP your pics aren't showing up. Yup DC Customs has controller modules (to keep the ballasts powered w/hight beams) used in conjunction with Xenon Depot's HID harness although the modules could also work with other relayed harnesses. The modules have a bulb-specific connector (H5, 9004, 9007 for example) for the input and a 9006/9006 connector for the relay harness input and 2-pin molex connector for the highbeam solenoids. I believe Halo has a XD harness, maybe he can pot details about them.

        Also if your vehicle is a Toyota that doesn't have DRLs through the H4 headlights, there's no need for any modules.
        Originally posted by HK45
        I don't even look to see what Eddie writes anymore. I'm too busy staring at his avatar.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Haloruler64 View Post
          They don't moderate this forum enough to take anything down haha. Yes the Motocontrol harnesses are known to have issues. Maybe not garbage, but the failure rate is disappointing. There is an alternative: Contact a company called DC Customs. They had their own H4 relay system built, I think based on XenonDepot harnesses? Either way hit them up.
          Originally posted by Eddie View Post
          OP your pics aren't showing up. Yup DC Customs has controller modules (to keep the ballasts powered w/hight beams) used in conjunction with Xenon Depot's HID harness although the modules could also work with other relayed harnesses. The modules have a bulb-specific connector (H5, 9004, 9007 for example) for the input and a 9006/9006 connector for the relay harness input and 2-pin molex connector for the highbeam solenoids. I believe Halo has a XD harness, maybe he can pot details about them.

          Also if your vehicle is a Toyota that doesn't have DRLs through the H4 headlights, there's no need for any modules.
          Thanks for catching those missing photos -- they showed up at first, but are missing now?

          Disappointing that it's a common failure, and even more so that TRS support blamed it on me. I'll never shop with them again, and have moved all my purchases to ProLightz in QC, Canada... Best customer support, and free shipping on any warranties in Canada. Plus their prices are lower!

          No DRLs ('05 Tacoma, US import, and manged to sneak past inspection, so I've still got stealth mode )
          Just basic H4 high/low, so a dual relay set up with a diode preventing the high beam solenoids from back-feeding with the low circuit is pretty easy... but I guess I was silly to think I could buy something close to as good as I could make myself. Oops.

          The Low/High positives overlap (both are on at the same time) for a tiny part of the lever stroke, so I shouldn't need a cap or more elaborate timer harness to keep the ballasts from on/off all the time, right?

          Comment


          • #6
            You're in luck,your Taco is a ground-switched/common positive ystem so you don't diodes, caps, and other stuff to complicate things.

            The usual H4 connections


            But on your truck, "Low Beam" and "High Beam" are grounds and "Negative" is a common positive.

            Relay(s) #85 connects to the common positive, #86 to a chassis ground, #30 to a fused positive, #87 to ballast positive.

            Bixenon solenoids to the common positive and High Beam ground. No relays needed for the solenoids, they don't draw much current so the stock wiring will work fine. The solenoids are not polarity specific


            I had a brand-new Motocontrol unit fail on me within an hour of use, couldn't warranty it because I bought it from the original purchaser (who bought it brand new but never installed).
            Originally posted by HK45
            I don't even look to see what Eddie writes anymore. I'm too busy staring at his avatar.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Eddie View Post
              You're in luck,your Taco is a ground-switched/common positive ystem so you don't diodes, caps, and other stuff to complicate things.

              The usual H4 connections


              But on your truck, "Low Beam" and "High Beam" are grounds and "Negative" is a common positive.

              Relay(s) #85 connects to the common positive, #86 to a chassis ground, #30 to a fused positive, #87 to ballast positive.

              Bixenon solenoids to the common positive and High Beam ground. No relays needed for the solenoids, they don't draw much current so the stock wiring will work fine. The solenoids are not polarity specific


              I had a brand-new Motocontrol unit fail on me within an hour of use, couldn't warranty it because I bought it from the original purchaser (who bought it brand new but never installed).
              Are you trying to isolate the ground so it does not switch?

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by ayray View Post

                Are you trying to isolate the ground so it does not switch?
                Yes. That common positive isnít hot until the headlight switch is on low or stalk on flash/high. I have relays wired this way on my Tundra,also a ground switched H4 headlight setup
                Originally posted by HK45
                I don't even look to see what Eddie writes anymore. I'm too busy staring at his avatar.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Eddie View Post

                  Yes. That common positive isnít hot until the headlight switch is on low or stalk on flash/high. I have relays wired this way on my Tundra,also a ground switched H4 headlight setup
                  You know they have modules for that
                  https://hidkitpros.com/shop/h49003-s...g-play-module/

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by ayray View Post

                    You know they have modules for that
                    https://hidkitpros.com/shop/h49003-s...g-play-module/
                    Explain why I would need modules for a OEM headlight system that already keeps the ballasts energized even with the high beams on?
                    Originally posted by HK45
                    I don't even look to see what Eddie writes anymore. I'm too busy staring at his avatar.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Eddie View Post

                      Explain why I would need modules for a OEM headlight system that already keeps the ballasts energized even with the high beams on?
                      Oh I guess I was confused as to what you were initially saying, that is to isolate the ground on older toyotas that do have the switching grounds, my bad.

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X