Projector Retrofit on 2007 Ram 3500 - HID wiring issues

[Staple_STI]

New to the forum, not new to installing HIDs but first time on a H13 (dual filament) style headlight. Having some issues with my wiring and I am sure someone on here has gotten projectors to work on a Dodge with H13 stock headlights.

Vehicle: 2007 Ram 3500 (H13 Headlights)
Parts:

• D2S V2 Projectors (DDM)
• Ultra Canbus 35W D2S 4500k HID kit
• H13 High/Low Harness

To date, I have:

• Purchased the above items
• Opened up the headlight housings
• Installed D2S V2 projectors
• Installed the High/Low Harness, Canbus Ballasts and did a test run to align the projectors
• Then sealed the housings

Issues:

• The above set up works perfect when the truck is not running. I am able to fire the low beams, activating the high beams (solenoid) and all is good
• When I start the truck is when I am left with problems
  • With the truck running the lights completely turn on and off, sometimes turning off and staying off. (so not quite a flicker)
  • They tend to always turn off when I toggle to high beams
  • I mentioned my issues to a rep at DDM and they said the High/Low harness is interfering with the canbus HID kit. Which lead me to the trial below and removing the High/Low harness.

Trials:

• I have since removed the High/Low harness and connected directly to each stock headlight plug, but without a relay I don't have high beams. When I flip to highs the solenoid engages but of course the low beams go off because this wire looses power. (hence why the relays are needed)
• Of course I could put in a powered secondary switch to active the solenoid. This would allow high beams with fogs, but wouldn't be a very user friendly way of doing high beams.

Is there anything I am missing that is causing the issues when the truck is running?? I thought with the fancy "Ultra Canbus HID Kit" I wouldn't need additional resistors or capacitors as it was all built into the kit via the "Error Cancelers".

I think my next test will be to reinstall the High/Low Harness (because it is needed to operate the solenoid correctly) but also install a resistor on the low beam stock headlight wire to correct this on/off issue when the truck is running..

Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,

[Lightwerkz Global Inc.]

Special harness is required.

https://www.lightwerkz.net/index.php...e-harness.html

When using a relayed harness - a can bus ballast has no real special purpose - acts like a normal ballast since its not connected direct to your car's wiring.

Dont waste any more time - order the harness and be done with it.

[Staple_STI]

Special harness is required.

https://www.lightwerkz.net/index.php...e-harness.html

When using a relayed harness - a can bus ballast has no real special purpose - acts like a normal ballast since its not connected direct to your car's wiring.

Dont waste any more time - order the harness and be done with it.

Thanks for the info Lightwerkz. As per the attached link, it looks as if I am 99% of the way there. All I need to do is install the resistor packs on the input to the High/Low harness. The kit I have already has all the other connections the one you have does.

What size of resistors, and how many, do I need from the stock headlight input? Late model Dodge's are typically 8 ohm / 50 watts. If I throw a couple of these on the input it looks as if it will work out perfect. I can get these for dirt cheap.

thoughts?

[Staple_STI]

For anyone interested in hearing the solution to this.. I wasn't interested in spending another 75 USD for a part I already had.. so,

I purchased 2 resistors (10 bucks CAD) that had H13 connectors so it was a plug and play install. I plugged them directly into the headlight plug that was sending signal to my H13 H/L relay harness that I already had from DDM tuning and it worked perfect.

I appreciate the link from Lightwerks to help me understand that the input plug from the truck needed a load, similar to that of a headlight bulb, as it was not running the ballasts, simply telling it when to do what function.

On another note, for guys doing installs on trucks in Canada with DRL functions, When signalling with the Dodge's typically the headlight goes out while the signal light is on and then pops back on when the signal is off.. The Lightwerks plug would have the same issue I have with DRL only, since I am getting "input" from only the right side of the truck when I signal on the right hand side both HIDs go out, and when I signal with the left they both stay on.. makes perfect sense, just looks stupid and sucks..

Lightwerks.. any solution to this for the Canadian guys?? Other than using a dual relay??

[wyvern]

Dodge uses rolling voltage, or pwm voltage through the TIPM. Wire your low beams into the park light circuit, I go through a relay 1 per side, and wire into each side. The high beams is the shutter( since you have Bi-Xenon shrouds). Wire that into the high beam circuit. You wont have DRLs, but you could figure out an idea to wire in a fog light or led strip for the drl.

Rob