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Mini H1 6.0 - High Beam Shield Not Activating

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  • Mini H1 6.0 - High Beam Shield Not Activating

    Recently I did a Mini H1 6.0 retrofit into a 1990 BMW M3. The car stock was running sealed beams; H4 as a low/high outer beams, and an H4 high inner beam. When the high beams are turned on all 4 headlights on the car remain on. This is different from some other e30's that came from the factory with 9005 high beams and 9006 low beam projectors, where the low beams would shut off when the high beams were turned on.

    After fitting my MH1 into the housing, I did a test fit with my H4 wiring harness. As you can see, the H4 wiring harness is split with one input running through the canbus box, into the ballast, and then out to the HID bulb, and the other runs directly to the high-beam shield activator, which is plugged in and mounted just at the base of the bulb housing.


    When I tested the projector, everything was working fine. I could hear the shield being activated when I turned on the high beams, and the light output makes it clear that the cut-off moves when the high beam is activated.
    Here you can see high and low beams on together, the high I am running is a 9005 XB LED.

    And the output on the wall - Mini H1 Low beams only:

    Together:


    Later that day I captured a couple of more shots with the lights pointing off directly at the wall, I stood in front of the LED high beam to get an idea of what the project itself could do.
    Mini H1 low beam:

    Mini H1 High Beam (vertical cutoff on the left side is because I was standing blocking the high beam):

    Together:



    Now my problem, is a couple of months later I finally have got these installed in the car, and they have been in for less than 50 miles, but I noticed yesterday that when I turn on my high beams that the projector cut-off no longer changes, and I cannot hear any sound like the shield is moving when I turn on my high beams.

    My question: Is this a known issue with these projectors? Does this happen often?

    I will need to dig into it this weekend and double check all of the connections, to make sure nothing came loose, but it does seem odd to me that possibly both sides have vibrated loose in under 50 miles.

    I never got around to taking pictures of the car directly after the install, to show the light difference between low and high beams. This was the closest I got, a comparison of the stock sealed beams to the new set-up. In it it seems the projector changes its light output when the high beam is enabled, so it seems like it was working directly after the install as well, and sometime since then has stopped.



    I will try to get more pictures and details this week sometime. If anyone has any suggestions or information in the meantime I am all ears.

    Also, I have used this site as a reference over the last year while preparing for this retro-fit, thanks to everyone here for your many great contributions.

    Cheers
    Last edited by hankolerd; October 27th, 2015, 09:12 AM. Reason: spelling

  • #2
    Well as always first step is to check all connections, maybe something worked itself loose in the past few months. Other than that I think you would have to take everything apart to get to the solenoid. Not sure if its a known issue but people have had problems with the mini H1 in the past.

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    • #3
      Yes, this is a known issue with MH1 projectors. If you have a multi-meter, make sure you are getting full voltage at the solenoids from the harness. If you don't have one, Power on your projectors, and supply power directly to the solenoids from the battery. If the high beams activate, it is likely that it is a wiring issue. If they still don't come on, then it is most likely something internal. Did you perform the "pre-install" steps (flicking the high beams on and off ~40 times, etc.)?
      [ 1999 Honda Prelude SH ] [ Hybrid TL projectors with OEM ZKW lenses] [ Adjustable OEM Ballasts ] [ Bi-halogen projectors with HIR bulbs]

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      • #4
        I checked them a couple of times before the install, when I took the above pictures. I would say I flicked between low/high at least 20 times and they were working fine pre-install.

        I will check the connections tonight or tomorrow to see if any are loose.

        Wicked SC - Can I use a 9V battery to power the solenoid to test? Or does it have to be a 12V source? I ask because my battery is in the trunk. Also I am not too electrically inclined. TRS said the same thing when I asked on their Facebook page, but they have not yet responded if a 9V battery is enough power to trigger the high beam solenoid.

        Here is what it looks like now (NOTE: I have not leveled them yet):

        Comment


        • #5
          Is the polarity correct?
          *CLICK BELOW ON WHAT YOU WANT TO SEE*

          2014 Nissan Sentra Quads w/ XB Fogs

          DSC_9349 by Sam Colt, on Flickr

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          • #6
            Why do you have LED HBs? They're not going to compare to a proper halogen. Get a set of 9011s in there.
            2001 Dodge Ram; TRS Mini D2S (X-lens) install
            1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee; Infiniti G37 install
            1998 BMW 540i (E39); Lexus RX350 install

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            • #7
              A 9v will work.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by xcrider View Post
                A 9v will work.
                Awesome, thanks for confirming.

                Originally posted by JaimeZX View Post
                Why do you have LED HBs? They're not going to compare to a proper halogen. Get a set of 9011s in there.
                I was not able to find good information when I was doing my search, so thought I would give them a try. The TRS page on the XB LED lists it as a High Beam bulb, so I thought it might actually work out pretty good. I still have not had a chance to get the car out on the open road at night to see how far the throw is. Now that it is getting dark early in the day I might have a chance soon. It would seem based on my garage photos that the LED throws the light very high and very low, likely due to the fact that there are only two LEDs, one pointing straight up and the other straight down in the reflector. It has been 6 months now so I can't return them. At this point I want to at least get some quality pictures of the throw (or lack of) of the LED bulbs, so that I can share the result with others. Thanks for the tip on the 9011, I didn't realize it was just a brighter/whiter 9005, that sounds like exactly what I want
                Last edited by hankolerd; October 28th, 2015, 12:02 PM.

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                • #9
                  No problemo, hope you figure it out soon.

                  And just a heads up on the 9011 but while they are substantially brighter than a 9005 they are NOT whiter. Still the standard halogen ~4200K color. If you want the colors to match I would just leave the LEDs in the high beam slot since they are just supplementing the projectors you have now.

                  That being said I have a pair of the 9011s in my car since I wanted my high beams to be as bright as possible and don't mind having two separate color temps. RX350 bixenons + 9011 in the stock high beam reflectors give me plenty of light when I need it.

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                  • #10
                    My HID's are 35W 4500K, the LED's are 6000K, so 4200K halogen might actually look like a closer match. I haven't really been able to capture the two colors together very well, but this kind of shows it (It also really shows how the LED shines, and why it reflects like it does!):




                    I bought the LED because it is rated at 3000 lumens. But because it only has two tiny light sources the reflected beam is not really all that useful, unless you want to see what color the road 5 feet in front of the car is, or to use the car for late night owl spotting.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by xcrider View Post
                      And just a heads up on the 9011 but while they are substantially brighter than a 9005 they are NOT whiter. Still the standard halogen ~4200K color.
                      Do you know where you got that information? According to this other guy (which is not necessarily true) - http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...ures-7814.html - The 9011 is 3600K, where a standard halogen is 3250K.

                      In other news, I figured it out! It was a combination of issues. On the driver side, when I plugged it in one of the wires was not snapped in to place all the way, and backed out of the plug (either vibrated out, or when I first installed the lights). On the passenger side the polarity was reversed, I guess red-to-red and black-to-black cannot always be taken as truth

                      Thanks for the tips guys, really glad this was painless to solve, was worried I had a bigger issue.

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                      • #12
                        I installed 9012s to replace 9006s in a car. They ARE whiter, but barely. Not gonna notice much of a difference. Still very much halogen yellow color.

                        2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder
                        2017 Lexus CT200h F Sport

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by hankolerd View Post
                          Do you know where you got that information? According to this other guy (which is not necessarily true) - http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...ures-7814.html - The 9011 is 3600K, where a standard halogen is 3250K.
                          Woops I was a little high on the K rating, my bad. And it comes from personal experience. I've used 4500K morimoto, 5500K morimoto, and Osram CBI bulbs in my projectors and all of them were significantly more white than the 9011 bulbs in my high beams were.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by hankolerd View Post
                            In other news, I figured it out! It was a combination of issues. On the driver side, when I plugged it in one of the wires was not snapped in to place all the way, and backed out of the plug (either vibrated out, or when I first installed the lights). On the passenger side the polarity was reversed, I guess red-to-red and black-to-black cannot always be taken as truth

                            Thanks for the tips guys, really glad this was painless to solve, was worried I had a bigger issue.
                            Between the 95% bullshiet I spew, I like being right the other 5% of the time. Glad you got it sorted out :-)
                            *CLICK BELOW ON WHAT YOU WANT TO SEE*

                            2014 Nissan Sentra Quads w/ XB Fogs

                            DSC_9349 by Sam Colt, on Flickr

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by xcrider View Post
                              Woops I was a little high on the K rating, my bad. And it comes from personal experience. I've used 4500K morimoto, 5500K morimoto, and Osram CBI bulbs in my projectors and all of them were significantly more white than the 9011 bulbs in my high beams were.
                              Yeah, that makes sense. I think the 3600k on the 9011 and 3250k for most 9005 sounds right, and about what I was expecting. Definitely a noticeable difference to 4500k. I ran a very similar setup on my last car (5500K and halogen highs) and could barely tell when the high beams were on I think the 9011 bulb should help me actually see a difference.

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