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300zx Xenon projector project

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  • 300zx Xenon projector project

    Hello,

    I hoping I could get some advice and learn a few things here. I've got a project idea I want to try but need some thoughts on. I'm not afraid to try something for the first time so I'm ready to dig in. lol.

    Details about the about the OEM 300zx Xenon headlamp that was only available in Japan for the 99/00 models are not well known (as far as I can tell from prior searches on this site and around the net). As with any OEM Xenon headlamp they are very expensive and not common here in the states. This also means it is very rare to find a set used or a set you're at least willing to tinker with. About 4 years ago I purchased a set new and right away opened the units up to pull the cut off shield out to correct them for LHD and did so successfully. The light output and performance of these headlamps really is wonderful, IMO. If anyone wants more details on them while I have them apart please let me know and give me some guidance as to what you are looking for.

    Here is a photo of the Xenons in use on my Z32, after performing the cut off correction.


    Not too long ago I also picked up a set of the European spec Z32 headlamps that also featured a vertical axis aiming motor that was controlled via a switch inside the cabin. This headlamp is Halogen. For fun I wanted to see if there was a way for me to merge the OEM Xenon projectors into the European spec housing and still retain the use of the aiming motor.Thus I purchased a second set of used Xenon headlamps from Japan.

    Below are a few photos of both projectors. My concerns are the Halogen projector is smaller in size and in order to retain the aiming feature I will need to use the black bracket that the halogen projector is mounted to. My thoughts are: cut off the front of Halogen projector leaving only a potion of it to use as a "middle like" plate. Then I would take the two front and rear sections of the Xenon projector and mount them to the plate. However the sides of the Xenon projector will need to be cut/shaved down in order to fit inside the black bracket. The sections that would be cut are part of the bowl like feature.

    Will cutting off a part of these affect my light output and possibly even the shape of it?

    Halogen at Left. Xenon at Right. Red line indicates where I would like to cut and remove the projector, leaving only the center plate are just behind the red line. The rear of the Halogen projector can simply be removed by four screws.


    Halogen at Left. Xenon at Right. Red/Green arrows point to the pivot joints on the bracket, thus I need to keep the bracket. Red line with the arrow shows roughly where I would need to cut and remove (on both sides) in order for the Xenon projector to fit on the black bracket. Again, will cutting this amount of material off cause any issues and negative affects? The same amount of material would be removed from the rear section of the Xenon projector. I noticed the Halogen projector is not as fully enclosed as the Xenon...does this make a difference between Halogen based lighting and Xenon/HID?

  • #2
    Those look like Nissan 350Z/Murano projectors. If you cut into the bowl it will negatively affect output. If it's only the surrounding bracket you should be ok.

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    • #3
      Another thing to be careful of is if you transplant pieces, you will need to make sure that the lens gets rejoined at the exact same position as before (relative to the bowl and the low beam shield). Otherwise, you may have a different output.

      Since the distance from the mounting flange to the tip of the lens (at dead center) seem a bit longer for the halogen, and you're using the headlight housing for the halogen, how about making an adapter bracket on the HID that is a little bit behind the HID projector's mounting flange?
      Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

      3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Nuvolari View Post
        Those look like Nissan 350Z/Murano projectors. If you cut into the bowl it will negatively affect output. If it's only the surrounding bracket you should be ok.
        Is it simply the open area caused by the cut (similar to how the Haolgen is open on the side) or simply the changing of the shape of the bowl that negatively affects the light output?

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Zeke21 View Post
          Is it simply the open area caused by the cut (similar to how the Haolgen is open on the side) or simply the changing of the shape of the bowl that negatively affects the light output?
          Different sections of the bowl, in conjunction with the lens, make up the final output. Note that many regions of the output (in terms of how it appears on the wall) can be comprised of light contributions from many sections of the bowl. See posts #1 & 5 from upashi's very useful experiment (link). If you have to cut, make sure it isn't areas that contribute most to the output.
          Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

          3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by satrya View Post
            Another thing to be careful of is if you transplant pieces, you will need to make sure that the lens gets rejoined at the exact same position as before (relative to the bowl and the low beam shield). Otherwise, you may have a different output.
            How much does this really matter in this case? The two headlamp assemblies are similar. You can see them side by side, the Xenon at the right. I had already started removing removing the Xenon projector by the time I took this photo so the projector it is somewhat angled.



            Originally posted by satrya View Post
            Since the distance from the mounting flange to the tip of the lens (at dead center) seem a bit longer for the halogen, and you're using the headlight housing for the halogen, how about making an adapter bracket on the HID that is a little bit behind the HID projector's mounting flange?
            This is kind of what I was originally thinking but I would use the original portion of the Halogen as a "like" adapter bracket. Doing this would give me a similar length. The problem is trying to find a way to get it mounted in a way that wont affect the output. I would have to reuse the black bracket seen around the Halogen. It is smaller in width than the Xenon. So the Xenon would have to be cut.

            A very simple demo of what I was thinking. Remove the Halogen projector but leave the rear section.


            The rear section now becomes sandwiched but the two halves of the Xenon projector.


            If I cut down the Xenon are the holes now created by removing a portion of the bowls on each side going to affect the output? If so could I fill them in although they would be flat in the space?

            Another example of roughly how much of the bowl area would be cut in order for the Xenon to fit within the black bracket.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by satrya View Post
              Different sections of the bowl, in conjunction with the lens, make up the final output. Note that many regions of the output (in terms of how it appears on the wall) can be comprised of light contributions from many sections of the bowl. See posts #1 & 5 from upashi's very useful experiment (link). If you have to cut, make sure it isn't areas that contribute most to the output.
              Sorry didn't see this post while making my other. I will read through it. Thank you.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by satrya View Post
                Different sections of the bowl, in conjunction with the lens, make up the final output. Note that many regions of the output (in terms of how it appears on the wall) can be comprised of light contributions from many sections of the bowl. See posts #1 & 5 from upashi's very useful experiment (link). If you have to cut, make sure it isn't areas that contribute most to the output.
                Very helpful...I could theoretically tape up the areas in which I would need to cut and do a bench test to see what the out come would be...correct? Of course the tape would more likely simulate a solid wall vs an open area.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Why not cut out the sides of black bracket to make it fit the HID projector, then add JB weld to the rest for reinforcement?

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                  • #10
                    Another thing, if you sandwich the black bracket between the parts of the HID projector it will change the output because it is adding 1-2mm of space between the bowl/shield or shield/lens etc...

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Zeke21 View Post
                      How much does this really matter in this case? The two headlamp assemblies are similar. You can see them side by side, the Xenon at the right. I had already started removing removing the Xenon projector by the time I took this photo so the projector it is somewhat angled.
                      I don't mean dimensions involving the headlight housing in this case. I mean when you sandwich the halogen projector's mounting flange area to mount the HID projector, if it is done by cutting the HID projector and then rejoin it with the halogen projector's mounting flange in the middle, the original distance between the HID lens and the HID bowl need to be recreated with high precision. Otherwise, your beam pattern can get narrower or wider, or tilted, or angled.

                      Originally posted by Zeke21 View Post
                      If I cut down the Xenon are the holes now created by removing a portion of the bowls on each side going to affect the output? If so could I fill them in although they would be flat in the space?
                      Looks like some of the side ellipse of the HID bowl need to be trimmed off. I believe that impacts some of the hotspot intensity, if not the width, or both.
                      Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

                      3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Zeke21 View Post
                        Very helpful...I could theoretically tape up the areas in which I would need to cut and do a bench test to see what the out come would be...correct? Of course the tape would more likely simulate a solid wall vs an open area.
                        Yes. Although having done this experiment myself (both by direct visual inspection of the "wall output" and taking a picture of the wall output and playing with the camera's exposure setting & the resulting image's brightness/contrast), it is very hard to tell if some of these actually made a difference. They probably do, but the experimental conditions (which includes me, the observer) may not be good enough to discern that.
                        Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

                        3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          What I could do then, is put a spacer on the Xenon screws (equal to the distance that would be created by the the section I was thinking of keeping and sandwiching) in between the two halves of the Xenon projector. This in theory would replicate the slightly extended difference and I could swap it back into the housing and see how it changes the light output. Could also try the tape inside the bowl to see how cutting a portion of the bowl off would change things.

                          Trying to modify the black bracket I think is more challenging as it has pivot points needed to retain the adjust-ability of the projector. Trying to make it larger to accommodate the Xenon projector would require creating new pivot points, which in turn might also get in the way of actually mounting the black bracket to the housing.

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                          • #14
                            What about trying a different D2S projector? The EvoX-R has a relatively open structure, so attaching custom bracket to make the mounting flange fit may be easier than projectors you're looking at so far (i.e. the halogen and HID from those housings) that has a cast metal flange &/ lens holders.
                            Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

                            3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Just on a sidenote, how does the headlight lense compare between the xenon and halogen headlights? I remember trying to retrofit a fx-r projector in a set of halogens but output was somewhat ruined when I fitted the lens back on

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