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Modding Mercedes bi-xenon (hella), have some questions (remove shield?)

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  • Modding Mercedes bi-xenon (hella), have some questions (remove shield?)

    *Had in wrong subforum so I deleted*

    I decided to fix up my projector headlights I just got for our clk320, and noticed that the cut off wasn't great, it was pretty fuzzy. I found out it had Fresnel lenses. I ordered the ZKW-R lenses from TRS and it changed the cut off to be super sharp as comparison to what it was!

    When taking the projector apart I saw that it had a top shield. I am guessing and figuring this is a foreground limiter. The main question is that this projector (Hella) is in many cars.. The searching on here shows that this projector is also on other vehicles, some have the shield while others do not.... Would you keep the shield in or remove it? It does light up more on the ground which I can also imagine limits your depth perception? But wanted to see what people's opinion are on removing it or keeping it. Paint the shield black, polish it until it's shiny..etc.

    I've attached pictures of the before cut off with the Fresnel lens, then the clear zkw-r lens.

    Also attached the picture of the top shield and then the picture of the top shield installed in the projector bowl, and then the next picture of it removed.

    Apart:



    Stock Cutoff:


    New Lens, new cutoff.


    Top of shield:



    Shield Installed:


    Shield not installed:



    Thanks,
    -Nigel
    ___________________________________________

    ~NSG~

  • #2
    My recommendation would be to leave it. I once tried removing the shield on Mini H1 projectors and regretted it a few weeks later. I drove a Honda Prelude at the time which sat very low so I clearly saw the dark foreground in front of me, it took a while to get used to it but the dark foreground was much more welcome than a blinding foreground.

    Also don't bother polishing the shield. You will hardly get any performance, you might even redirect light where you don't want it to go and just create more problems.

    Comment


    • #3
      First of all, that new sharp colorful slope cutoff is sex! Nice work. And personally, I'd leave the foreground limiter on. It will help u see further by reducing the light directly in front of your car.

      Comment


      • #4
        +1 on leaving the foreground limiter on that e55; I have an EvoX-R (e55r) that I had to add custom foreground limiters on.
        Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

        3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

        Comment


        • #5
          As I wrote in the other thread, it's definitely a foreground limiter. I'd leave it in place, but if you don't want it, I'll happily take it off your hands.


          OEM halogen reflector headlights | Osram Rallye H7 65W low beams | Philips Vision H1 55W high beams | Pre-facelift orange indicators

          Retrofits in progress: MDX LED retrofit | RX350/EvoX-R quad w/'moto HD relay, Mitsubishi gen4 ballasts and selectable quad wiring (needs lots of fixing)

          My retrofits

          Comment


          • #6
            Awesome then! Thanks everyone!! Appreciate it.

            I'm happy with the new cutoff for sure!

            -Nigel
            ___________________________________________

            ~NSG~

            Comment


            • #7
              Hi fellas. This is my first post and I hope I got the right thread as I have been searching for days for the appropriate thread, but they were either too old or not relevant.

              I recently bought a pair of E55 bi xenons (from an E Class) which are LHD and living in India where it is RHD, I have to modify the cutoff like what this member has done here http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...ot-bent-shield

              Anyway I picked up bits of info from all over the place (enough to take apart E55 bi xenons). I plan on dremelling the rivet clip at the back, that holds the lens to the projector. How do I put the bowl and lens back together after? Please keep in mind I have to shave off some of the edges of the projector with the holes in order to fit into my headlight housing.

              Please suggest a method of putting it back together.


              Uh..I don't know why my profile shows up as spam.

              Comment


              • #8
                Before taking anything apart try to drill 2 very straight holes through the bowl and lens holder, (where they meet). One on each side. Put a nut and bolt in on both sides make sure they screw on tight. Then take the nut/bolt off, separate projector, everything apart and change the lens or do what you need to do. At the end when u want to reassemble, you have the first two holes you drilled as place marks to reassemble everything correctly.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Nuvolari View Post
                  Before taking anything apart try to drill 2 very straight holes through the bowl and lens holder, (where they meet).
                  Thanks for your reply Nuvolari.

                  It appears to me that there are holes already drilled at three different places where the bowl and lens holder meet.

                  IMG_20141210_232729.jpg

                  IMG_20141210_232738.jpg

                  IMG_20141210_232814.jpg

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    These are where the two halves of EvoX-R (related to the e55 family) get secured to each other:




                    Bottom / side:


                    Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

                    3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by satrya View Post
                      These are where the two halves of EvoX-R (related to the e55 family)
                      Ok that's great. They are similar. Thanks for posting those pictures!

                      Satrya, maybe you could help me out with another dilemma. I plan on filing the cutoff flat (well it is a curved shield so will never be flat, but I mean file down the LHD step) like in the thread I posted earlier ^. In post 9 of that thread, the OP filed away another tab to increase some light output on the right side of his beam. I don't understand which tab he is referring to.

                      Should I be worried about doing that extra step, or can I increase light output by spacing.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by mmafreak View Post
                        I plan on filing the cutoff flat (well it is a curved shield so will never be flat, but I mean file down the LHD step) like in the thread I posted earlier ^. In post 9 of that thread, the OP filed away another tab to increase some light output on the right side of his beam. I don't understand which tab he is referring to.
                        If I were in your position (of needing the wrong-hand-side-traffic shield), I would source an oem e55 of the right shield. With many e55's, they end up with some burning on the bowl. It may be possible to get a good deal on those, and as long as the shield is intact, it is a much better bet to transplant the front half to your bowl.

                        Note that the curvature of the shield doesn't stay the same all the way down (i.e. as seen from the top edge all the way across). So, if you try to cut a mirror opposite, it may end up with a different enough distance to the bulb that the cutoff will not look very good. Note how small the actual step is physically; an error less than half a millimeter could show up as an obvious oddity on a wall or other vehicles. Imho, it would be more annoying than the notch that can be visible with the e55 family on the extreme right side of the projection (as seen on the wall; bottom projector):


                        It is almost visible on the right side here:


                        Originally posted by mmafreak View Post
                        Should I be worried about doing that extra step, or can I increase light output by spacing.
                        Spacing the shield or lens doesn't really affect light output. I probably misunderstood what you meant.
                        Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

                        3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by satrya View Post
                          I would source an oem e55 of the right shield.
                          I couldn't find one for RHD, plus the LHD ones were cheap. Ill keep a look out though.

                          Originally posted by satrya View Post
                          So, if you try to cut a mirror opposite
                          I don't intend on cutting another step, just filing down the existing step. I know cars in Europe have a button that will make the shield flat, when they drive in countries that operate in the other direction. So I am trying to operate on that same logic..


                          Originally posted by satrya View Post
                          Imho, it would be more annoying than the notch that can be visible with the e55 family on the extreme right side of the projection
                          I am actually not even worried about that notch on the right side. Just didn't know if I should do anything about it or not. Thinking about it, it would seem like I will only see that notch on the right side of the right projector as the notch from the left projector will blend in with the hotspot


                          Originally posted by satrya View Post
                          Spacing the shield or lens doesn't really affect light output. I probably misunderstood what you meant.
                          Ok thanks! Apart from color hue, I didnt know if spacing affects light output. Thanks for confirming.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by mmafreak View Post
                            I couldn't find one for RHD, plus the LHD ones were cheap. Ill keep a look out though.
                            When you happen to be in the US, you can see if anyone here happens to sell one. Liber_jr (and perhaps others) seem quite good at finding stuff.


                            Originally posted by mmafreak View Post
                            I know cars in Europe have a button that will make the shield flat, when they drive in countries that operate in the other direction. So I am trying to operate on that same logic..
                            I'm not aware of this. The lack of a lower shield portion on one side means some of the distance lighting (in the low beam) is reduced a bit. Plus signs on the sides of the road may not be as well illuminated.

                            Originally posted by mmafreak View Post
                            I am actually not even worried about that notch on the right side. Just didn't know if I should do anything about it or not. Thinking about it, it would seem like I will only see that notch on the right side of the right projector as the notch from the left projector will blend in with the hotspot
                            It was meant to illustrate how a small notch can appear so noticeable in real life. If I were to attempt to modify the center notch to switch between RHD and LHD, I imagine I could easily leave an imperfection that is smaller than my tool's capability, but still have a noticeable defect near the elbow / step of the cutoff.
                            Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

                            3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by satrya View Post
                              I'm not aware of this. The lack of a lower shield portion on one side means some of the distance lighting (in the low beam) is reduced a bit. Plus signs on the sides of the road may not be as well illuminated.
                              I was afraid of the loss of illumination. But the main reason I chose the E55s was the high beam as we do a lot of night time highway driving. I am running a H7 HID kit inside halogen projectors now and desperately need an upgrade. And don't worry about the signs on the side of the road, there are not very many to begin with

                              Originally posted by satrya View Post
                              It was meant to illustrate how a small notch can appear so noticeable in real life. If I were to attempt to modify the center notch to switch between RHD and LHD, I imagine I could easily leave an imperfection that is smaller than my tool's capability, but still have a noticeable defect near the elbow / step of the cutoff.
                              I get what you are saying.

                              Let me try and experiment and try to see if I can make a fresh cutoff shield with RHD steps. I am wary of removing the plastic bit that holds the shield to the inside of the bowl.

                              I have driven with extremely sharp cutoffs before and I found that I was not able to see anything above the cutoff (only noticed this after going back to a regular cutoff). Given that I also drive on a lot of hilly terrain, I am more focused on having maximal light output over razor sharp cutoffs.

                              Comment

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