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  • Ram Canbus HID Retrofit Issue

    I have a 2007.5 Dodge Ram 2500 that a friend of mine retrofitted stock lamps for me using Mopar Spec H13 9008 Bi-Xenon harness with 2 HD Load resistors, Bi-Xenon G5-R projectors, 35W Canbus Ballasts/Ds2 adapter's to run Osram 66240 bulbs.
    i have a couple of problems
    1. When i turn on my lights, the low beam (position) is actually running the Brights (fogs stay only with low beams) and when i click over to whats supposed to be my high beam power (dash light display brights), fog lights turn off and it appears to be the low beams on.
    What can cause this?

    2. my low beam settings (which issue 1 is making them be the brights) will randomly flicker on and off when the truck is running, not when turned off. The issue is only affecting the low beams. I am running the Mopar harness with the proper resistors. my friend had me order everything through Lightwerkz.net because thats who he prefers to use when hes doing HID retorift. I began looking over all the connections to make suer they were nice and tight, then i went onto all the grounds to make sure they were clean and on bare metal for proper grounds. A reached out to the company and we're replaced the resistors and the ballasts.
    The issues are still here. The last piece they think it could be mechanically would be the bulbs. Could they cause both or either issues?
    Or does my issues sound more CAnbus issue and need a software program to get into the computer sytem?


    The


  • #2
    first things first. Fog lights would turn off with your selector stalk on high beam.

    I suggest you confirm it's not your eyes playing tricks on you. Here's what I mean. What you're seeing with low beam + fog lights may look like high beam to the untrained eye. Some fog lights don't actually have a proper cutoff (don't ask me why) so they would throw light up past where your cutoff is for your bixenon projector making it look like high beam for the untrained eye. And when you flick the high beams on the scatter from the fogs go away and you're left with the projector on high beam. Most bixenon projectors still show a cutoff in high beam though it's much higher and looks a lot like an arc than a horizontal line. If you were testing your lights against a wall my explanation would make sense.

    Make sure it's not that first before you fix what's not broken.
    2006 Grand Vitara 3dr
    Projector swap: MH1 7.0, XB35, XB 4500K, custom wiring
    CAD designed adapter plate, manual leveling motors


    How to use Imgur to embed photos

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    • #3
      II have the ability to turn my fogs on and off with my factory dodge light dial. I can choose to turn them on or off whenever i'm running my low beams. So we can take them out of the equation on trying to find my issue.
      My low beam is significantly brighter than my high beam is. its almost like the 2 setting is flipped, telling the bulb to be brighter in the low beam setting vs the high beam.

      When i test mine against my shed wall, what is supposed to be my High beam (light displayed in dash) is just a horizontal line.
      When i test whats supposed to be the Low Beam (no bright display) the horizontal line has a large "spike" if you will in the middle and is much brighter.

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      • #4
        Ok does really look like you have them act opposite to what they are supposed to. Your high beam terminals going to the projector's solenoid terminals might be flipped. Have you tried reversing them?

        Here's something simple to try. If you leave your lights on and turn the engine off and take the key out do your lights automatically turn off or not. If they stay on then you do not have auto headlight off functionality and can try this. With your lights and engine off, open the hood and disconnect one of the battery terminals. If you can hear your solenoids inside your headlights clicking when you disconnect or reconnect the battery terminal then it's safe to say you just need to flip the terminals going to the solenoids and all should work fine.
        2006 Grand Vitara 3dr
        Projector swap: MH1 7.0, XB35, XB 4500K, custom wiring
        CAD designed adapter plate, manual leveling motors


        How to use Imgur to embed photos

        Comment


        • #5
          the flipped terminals makes perfect sense. My friend who did the retrofitting for me used JB Weld Apoxy to help hold the projectors in place. i have no idea how i'd go about getting to the solenoid?

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          • #6
            Since yours are HID then it's simple. Assuming your truck came with H13 halogens, your friend probably used a splitter to convert the single plug (that connected to the old H13 bulb with both low and high) to a pair of plugs for separate low and high. The plug for low beam is what's connected to the ballasts, you'd leave that one alone. The remaining plug should be going to high beam Solenoid.
            2006 Grand Vitara 3dr
            Projector swap: MH1 7.0, XB35, XB 4500K, custom wiring
            CAD designed adapter plate, manual leveling motors


            How to use Imgur to embed photos

            Comment


            • #8
              The link shows amp>d2s adapters. That adapter is installed between your bulb and your ballast.

              What I was referring to earlier is not that adapter at all. I was referring to a splitter that sits between the truck's original harness and the ballast.
              2006 Grand Vitara 3dr
              Projector swap: MH1 7.0, XB35, XB 4500K, custom wiring
              CAD designed adapter plate, manual leveling motors


              How to use Imgur to embed photos

              Comment


              • #9
                I apologize, i'm very green in this stuff. thats why i had a friend do the retrofit and he told me what to order.

                between the trucks passenger side H13 socket and the ballast is the Mopar Spec harness. 1 ballast per head lamp

                Mopar Spec: H13-9008 Bi-xenon Harness – Lightwerkz Global Inc

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                • #10

                  Helpful link you posted. So as pictured above one of the 9005/9006 connectors is going to your ballast and the other for your projector. The one going to the projector is the one that probably needs to be polarity flipped.

                  But before you do anything you can check if our little theory here is correct. Find that connector going to the projector and listen carefully for a click when you disconnect it. As I said before that flipped solenoid input should be holding the shield in high beam mode, so as soon as you cut its power by pulling that connector you should hear the same click you'd normally hear when flashing the projector high beams.
                  2006 Grand Vitara 3dr
                  Projector swap: MH1 7.0, XB35, XB 4500K, custom wiring
                  CAD designed adapter plate, manual leveling motors


                  How to use Imgur to embed photos

                  Comment


                  • #11
                    Originally posted by NoodleFace View Post

                    Helpful link you posted. So as pictured above one of the 9005/9006 connectors is going to your ballast and the other for your projector. The one going to the projector is the one that probably needs to be polarity flipped.

                    But before you do anything you can check if our little theory here is correct. Find that connector going to the projector and listen carefully for a click when you disconnect it. As I said before that flipped solenoid input should be holding the shield in high beam mode, so as soon as you cut its power by pulling that connector you should hear the same click you'd normally hear when flashing the projector high beams.
                    For what it's worth, I'm running a 2004.5 Cummins with projector retrofit and have been for years. Right now it's Mini H1's, Mori harness, XB ballasts, Mori bulbs, 5k.
                    Our trucks are picky when it comes to the canbus. I actually try and stay away from the "kits" made by Mopar or factory. They tend not to work well. Also if the resistors that are housed in a plastic "box" they tend to be hit or miss with actually doing their job

                    I'm running a Mori harness...
                    So my setup goes:

                    OEM harness plug (passenger) -->2 gold resistors that plug into the harness...8 (or 6?) ohm, 50W (1 over the lo wire, 1 over hi wire)-->Mori Harness plugs into other end of resistor connectors--->Then connect harness to the ballasts and hi wires

                    On the driver side OEM plug:

                    OEM harness plug (driver)--> 2 gold resistors (same as above) plugged in-->the other end of the hanging there (with a bag over the end).
                    It provides the resistance needed to fool the lamp out because your resistors are in-line with the OEM plug.

                    As well, I've heard instances of the Mori harnesses coming with the wires flipped.

                    I've run this type of setup with different ballasts and bulbs and I've never had an issue firing and I've never gotten any lamp out or any other warnings.

                    I did an install writeup over on the Cumminsforum.



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                    • #12
                      I do not have auto lights. so I did what you asked.
                      engine/lights turned off I did not hear anything when I pulled the ground cable off the driver battery. Never heard anything on the projector plug or in the headlight itself. I also put the ground cable back on the batter and Disconnected the “Projrctor” connector and didn’t hear anything.

                      Originally posted by NoodleFace View Post

                      Helpful link you posted. So as pictured above one of the 9005/9006 connectors is going to your ballast and the other for your projector. The one going to the projector is the one that probably needs to be polarity flipped.

                      But before you do anything you can check if our little theory here is correct. Find that connector going to the projector and listen carefully for a click when you disconnect it. As I said before that flipped solenoid input should be holding the shield in high beam mode, so as soon as you cut its power by pulling that connector you should hear the same click you'd normally hear when flashing the projector high beams.

                      Comment

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