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  • New here!

    Hi yall!

    I have a 2004 Dodge Ram 3500 that Id like to upgrade lighting for. The lights are completely stock, but Id really like to try retrofitting. I was on the retrofit source looking at a kit they make specifically for my truck but it was relatively pricey ($700 for projectors, shrouds, ballasts, bulbs, and wiring harness) so Id like to try to source my own parts.

    Sample list (could change):

    Morimoto Mini D2S 5.0 Bixenon

    Morimoto HID bulbs 6500K

    Morimoto XB35 2.0 ballasts

    Morimoto Mopar Spec 9007 Bixenon harness

    Morimoto turbine shrouds

    JB Weld clear rtv

    Comes to a grand total of a little under $400 courtesy of eBay.

    As Ive said Im new to this so other than what I have, what else can I use? Do all projectors fit or am I limited to a certain size? Do I have to get a projector specific shroud? How do I know if a projector will be compatible electronics wise with my vehicle? Anything else you guys can tell me. Thanks!

  • #2

    For the projector, there are some threads here comparing Morimoto Mini D2S 5.0 to the G5R (generic) family, and it seems that the G5R have some benefits compared to how the Mini D2S 5.0 is set up.

    For projector size, it is difficult to know ahead of time. In general, the Mini H1 family has a smaller package than the Mini D2S. The smaller the projector is, the lesser reflector bowl area it usually has. The total reflective area relative to the location where the bulb opening is can affect the maximum brightness at the hotspot. This is because the bowl area around the bulb opening has the highest beam density potential from an ideal point source of light. The more that area is taken away by a bulb opening, the lower the potential output is. If you have a spare headlight housing, then it is best to open up one and check the dimensions of a potential projector. There is at least one thread here that lists critical projector dimensions of many projectors.

    For compatibility with your vehicle's electronics, as you've checked, the input signal side of the wiring harness needs to match your vehicle's low beam bulb type (per your list, you implied that it is a 9007), and if the vehcile has CANBUS wiring etc., a wiring harness that is designed for that. I'm guessing the "Mopar Spec" fits that bill.

    With newer vehicles, the electrical system may not run on "12V" (usually 13.8V or so), but could be 24V or higher. That's a different story.

    Back on the 9007; both 9007 and 9004 are dual filament halogen bulb specifications, meaning they run both low and high beam functions. Also, 9007 and 9004 share the same connector. In addition to this 2 possibilities, a vehicle's headlight wiring arrangement can either be ground switched or positive switched. What that means is the "terminal" being controlled by the OE light switch can either be on the ground side (either connected or open to the circuit) or on the positive side (also either connected or open to the circuit), but not both switched. Because of this, a wiring harness labeled as 9007 or 9004 are interchangeable, but the pins on the 9007 or 9004 input signal connector can be wrong for your vehicle. If the system doesn't work from the get go (e.g. high beams on when on low beams and vice versa), then chances are you'd need to figure out where to re arrange the connector pins in the input signal connector of the wiring harness.
    Note: one of my retrofits is on an OE 9007 ground switched system. I had to rearrange the pins. Your mileage may vary.
    Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

    3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;