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  • #16
    Originally posted by satrya View Post
    Not sure about it..

    (1) Ballast power can affect color. For example, outputting more than 35W (i.e. the nominal expected ballast output) can make the light yellower. Less than 35W makes the light bluer.
    (2) Bulb salts affect color
    (3) Startup affect color. In the beginning, output is bluer.
    (4) Reflector bowl can be damaged over time, resulting in browning of surface. The output could turn yellower

    In this sense, I don't know if ballast replacement would be the answer, since old ballast is not likely to exceed its nominal 35W output
    Thank you. I am going to try a new ballast and igniter and see if that does anything. Figured this would be a quick easy test as I was able to find OEM ones for about $40 shipped. So I will just hook these up to one another and then unplug the power wire harness and plug into new ballast and test it.

    My other concern was the projector/reflector bowl as a new OEM headlight is over $700 on ebay and $1300 at dealer. Is it possible to clean these or do you have to disassemble entire headlight to do so?

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    • #17
      If it is the bowl, there are only a few OE headlight designs I've seen members post in this forum where the mounting flange of the bowl is bolted on the backside, making it possible to remove from a rather large bulb replacement opening in the back. But I believe that is the exception instead of norm. None of the headlights in my vehicles have openings large enough to force a whole projector, nor are rear mounted.

      Inspecting a burnt bowl is almost impossible without opening the headlight housing. Bowls can get this kind of damage over time.

      My guess is the JX might use the same biXenon projector as the FX. In that case, you should be able to find either OE FX projectors or FX-R, which is a good replica. You'll need to open the headlight housing to do the swap. If not the same unit (e.g. if you decide to get FX-R, which has a clear lens), you may want to get a pair instead of just one projector.
      Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

      3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by satrya View Post
        If it is the bowl, there are only a few OE headlight designs I've seen members post in this forum where the mounting flange of the bowl is bolted on the backside, making it possible to remove from a rather large bulb replacement opening in the back. But I believe that is the exception instead of norm. None of the headlights in my vehicles have openings large enough to force a whole projector, nor are rear mounted.

        Inspecting a burnt bowl is almost impossible without opening the headlight housing. Bowls can get this kind of damage over time.

        My guess is the JX might use the same biXenon projector as the FX. In that case, you should be able to find either OE FX projectors or FX-R, which is a good replica. You'll need to open the headlight housing to do the swap. If not the same unit (e.g. if you decide to get FX-R, which has a clear lens), you may want to get a pair instead of just one projector.
        Thank you. I am going to test ballast / igniter next week and will post back. I dont see any issues with dirt on bowl / projector for example.

        Comment


        • #19
          Reflector surface damage (turning brown) doesn't need to be incited by moisture (& whatever comes along with the moisture) exposure. The UV emission of the bulb itself could damage the surface over time.

          Here's an example:
          image source: http://www.oemxenonshop.com/BMW-E46-...placement.html
          http://www.oemxenonshop.com/OEM-HID-...nout-Bowls.jpg
          Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

          3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by satrya View Post
            Reflector surface damage (turning brown) doesn't need to be incited by moisture (& whatever comes along with the moisture) exposure. The UV emission of the bulb itself could damage the surface over time.

            Here's an example:
            image source: http://www.oemxenonshop.com/BMW-E46-...placement.html
            http://www.oemxenonshop.com/OEM-HID-...nout-Bowls.jpg
            Thank you. I am just waiting on the parts to test. The odd thing is that both bulbs match when turning on headlights....both a white and then drivers becomes very yellow (halogen) looking. I am hoping it isn't the reflector as I have no idea how to clean.

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            • #21
              So I even tried a new ballast and igniter...the light will start super clear white and at about 15-20 seconds turns yellow. So ballast and igniter are not issue. Any thoughts?

              The light itself is still very clean and I donít see any issues with it being dirty.

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              • #22
                take the bulb out of the headlight and turn it on (carefully)

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                • #23
                  Your bulbs don't have matching color temps, if aftermarket and not Philips, Osram, GE, Harrison or Koito then you get what you pay for. If they are OEM and not counterfeit they could be different models with different color temps.
                  D1S is where its at, Radically better EMI and RFI performance. Only the new Japanese cars still use D2 bulbs, the others have all changed to D1S.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by D1S View Post
                    Your bulbs don't have matching color temps, if aftermarket and not Philips, Osram, GE, Harrison or Koito then you get what you pay for. If they are OEM and not counterfeit they could be different models with different color temps.
                    Both bulbs are actually Philips and new as I put them in myself a few weeks ago. They are both 4300k. I even tried to put a 6000k on the problematic drivers side and it still becomes halogen / yellow looking after 15-20 seconds. I have tried everything and I am not sure what is going on. Could a bad battery cause this? For example, when we purchased vehicle it has a 470 CCA OEM battery in it however vehicle should have a 700 CCA rating.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by niZmO_Man View Post
                      take the bulb out of the headlight and turn it on (carefully)
                      Can you elaborate on this? Not sure what you mean.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        absolutely nothing to do with your battery, are you sure they are OEM and not counterfeit ? You should power both bulbs with the same ballast etc, do both bulbs behave the same when powered from the same setup, one side or the other.
                        D1S is where its at, Radically better EMI and RFI performance. Only the new Japanese cars still use D2 bulbs, the others have all changed to D1S.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by D1S View Post
                          absolutely nothing to do with your battery, are you sure they are OEM and not counterfeit ? You should power both bulbs with the same ballast etc, do both bulbs behave the same when powered from the same setup, one side or the other.
                          Yes, both bulbs are Philips and I purchased them and they were branded Philips. I even tried a 6000k and still came out halogen looking. I even tried to switch the crisp white bulb (passenger side) to the drivers and vise versa and still had the exact same issue. So its not a bulb issue. I am just at a dead end here. Tried a new ballast, igniter and bulb and still have same issue on drivers side.

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                          • #28
                            Then it's obviously your housing/projector. Put pictures up

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                            • #29
                              My guess is still a burnt bowl
                              Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

                              3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                I have attached links to photos. Also, I put in LED fog lights recently....would that cause any issues with the halogen looking output on drivers side?

                                https://www.photobox.co.uk/my/photo?...d=501817603102
                                https://www.photobox.co.uk/my/photo?...d=501817604072
                                https://www.photobox.co.uk/my/photo?...d=501817603438

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