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D3S conversion options

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  • D3S conversion options

    Hey there all! New guy with a question.
    I have a 2016 volvo S60 with factory D3S headlights. I want to do a conversion so I could use the universal (Chinese) type HID kits, to upgrade to 55w and 6k (stock looks like 4500k). What are my conversion options?
    I have looked and searched online, but found nothing.
    Also, do the D3S/D2/D1 type systems have the same setup as the chinese HID? As in there is a ballast somewhere along the input wires, or is everything inside the little box at the base of the bulbs and the bulbs receive 12V input into that box?

    Thanks in advance!

  • #2
    I'm guessing you'll have to make some sort of plug to get the input from the OE connector (to the ballast).
    Or buy this
    https://www.powerbulbs.com/product/o...boost-d3s-twin

    Comment


    • #3
      Welcome to HID Planet!

      You'd really be downgrading if you go for cheap 55W ballasts and cheap bulbs. A good set of OEM bulbs and an OEM 35W (output) ballast will likely be as bright or brighter than a cheap 55W kit. Forget all that and just buy a quality set of 6000K HID bulbs like the Osram CBB from a reputable dealer like TRS or Lightwerkz.

      D3S has a ballast yes. The box on the back of the bulb is the igniter, the rest of the ballast is under the headlight.

      2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder
      2017 Lexus CT200h F Sport

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      • #4
        Originally posted by niZmO_Man View Post
        I'm guessing you'll have to make some sort of plug to get the input from the OE connector (to the ballast).
        Or buy this
        https://www.powerbulbs.com/product/o...boost-d3s-twin
        as long as the input is 12V then getting a connector wont be a problem for me. the bigger question is getting a bulb that matches the base.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Haloruler64 View Post
          Welcome to HID Planet!

          You'd really be downgrading if you go for cheap 55W ballasts and cheap bulbs. A good set of OEM bulbs and an OEM 35W (output) ballast will likely be as bright or brighter than a cheap 55W kit. Forget all that and just buy a quality set of 6000K HID bulbs like the Osram CBB from a reputable dealer like TRS or Lightwerkz.

          D3S has a ballast yes. The box on the back of the bulb is the igniter, the rest of the ballast is under the headlight.

          I have used the 55w kits, yes there are cheap knockoffs that dont put out 55w but I went through several chinese brands and actually tested watts. And yes they are brighter.

          since there is a ballast, and if the input is 12V, I think I have found a solution. I will keep this thread updated on the works!

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          • #6
            Don't forget that cheap bulbs will most likely have no UV cut so they'll destroy the reflective surfaces of your projectors eventually.

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            • #7
              i wont recommend changing your original ballast... just buy d3s 4300k 55w bulbs online. Not all ballast will work on volvos... you might have the error on the dash... the car is new, i wouldn't change the ballasts.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by jonyhid View Post
                i wont recommend changing your original ballast... just buy d3s 4300k 55w bulbs online. Not all ballast will work on volvos... you might have the error on the dash... the car is new, i wouldn't change the ballasts.
                It wont be any more light output though as the ballast is limited to 35W, right?
                That would be like putting in a bigger gas tank to get more HP out of your engine...

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by niZmO_Man View Post
                  Don't forget that cheap bulbs will most likely have no UV cut so they'll destroy the reflective surfaces of your projectors eventually.
                  Ive used chinese HID for as long as 5 years on a car and no UV damage

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Found some Sukioto D3S 55W ballasts on aliexpress... Don't know if they fit your application and don't know the brand though.

                    As far as Chinese bulbs, if you use good brands like Yeaky or CNLight, there is no worries about UV... The generics are really dangerous.

                    But I see what you mean, you can't use a normal/generic ballast with D3S bulb. They only could light up D2S, because the voltage is different.

                    Read this and you will understand:

                    https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/for...se-of-them-all
                    Last edited by Alberto; December 28th, 2018, 11:20 AM.

                    Chevrolet Astra 2.0
                    OEM Hella E55 frosted lens with 4-position Eletric Leveling
                    Yeaky 5500k @ Hyluxtek ASIC DSP 50W

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                    • #11
                      I'm new on the forum, but did my first HID conversion back 2002. Now I bought a Kia Sportage 2016 for my wife and I have been doing light (and lots of other) upgrades for it. It has only 20 000km on the clock so it has no wear, but I already upgraded the fog lights to quad led types and installed a "hidden" 200W led bar to assist high beams. I also put +200% Philips D3S bulbs on it, but low beam isn't what I'd like. I bought Sukioto 55W ballast and 55W D3S bulb for it, but noticed that my original ballast are very different wiring wise.

                      Original 35W:


                      Sukioto 55W:

                      I bet bulb side 4 pin connector is easy to solve, but does anyone have any idea of that input connector (original 5 pin, Sukioto 4 pin)? I would assume that only +12V and minus is needed, so why there are additional pins? Original ballast has two bigger pins and three smaller.

                      Also Sukioto send me an actual 55W D3S bulb, but the ballast they send has 85V output, which means D1S (D3S is around 42V).

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                      • #12
                        The lower photo is a clone of an Osram ballast, that heatsinking (fins) shown are good enough for 35 watt but not even close to enough for 50 watts without some augmented cooling,
                        Such as external air blowing on it.
                        The input power is a Delphi connector with what should be 3 pins not 4 as you stated.
                        The output is 3 pins not 4 for any D1X or D3X bulb, room for a 4th pin but doesn't have it or need it. The gap is there to provide more space between the 2 higher voltage pins for starting.
                        about 1,200 volts since the igniter is within the bulb assembly.
                        D1S is where its at, Radically better EMI and RFI performance. Only the new Japanese cars still use D2 bulbs, the others have all changed to D1S.

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