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How the heck do I get these VLEDS V6 Triton Switchbacks to work?

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  • How the heck do I get these VLEDS V6 Triton Switchbacks to work?

    TLDR: I ordered V6 Triton Switchbacks and neither Lightwerkz or VLEDS seems to be able to tell me how to get them to function as DRLs. How do I get them to work?

    I apologize for my salty attitude ahead of time! This was supposed to be a good thing to look forward to after the hell that is my job during the holidays, and it's turned into a huge pain in the ass. I ordered a pair of said switchbacks from Lightwerkz during their black friday sale. I wanted a simple and effective means for a DRL as I am doing a projector retrofit on a 2018 Honda Fit. (I don't want the xenon running as the DRL) I didn't want any more fuss than a simple wire harness and a couple taps. They arrived a couple days ago. I was under the impression I would tap a fuse and give the Triton Switchback constant power, allowing it to function as the DRL. When the turn signal is used, it flashes amber then returns to white. I attach the dimming wire to the positive wire of my headlights and they will dim when the low beam is on.

    This isn't happening and I am very sad.

    I took a look at the wiring diagram (Found here: http://www.vleds.com/media/wysiwyg/w...Dual_DRL_B.jpg) and noticed my base adapter (#4) doesn't have the wire (#6) which I assume you use to tap a fuse and give constant power to the LEDs, giving the "DRL effect". So I contact Lightwerkz and they inform me that I ordered a "parking light switchback" not a "DRL switchback". This makes no sense to me at all. Who would want a "parking light switchback"? Who gives a crap about parking lights? When I ordered the unit, it literally says "7443 7440 7444" as the base adapter choice. This leads me to believe there shouldn't be any "special adapters" I need.

    They informed me I needed a "special base adapter" and I would need to contact VLEDS. I did just that. VLEDS informed me I needed a DRL wiring harness. (Found here: http://www.vleds.com/shop-products/v...a-drl-kit.html) Being only $10 I ordered it, reluctantly, thinking I was just going to get a glorified wire and a $1 fuse tap. And what did I get?

    A glorified wire and a fuse tap.

    Looking around their website all I see that resembles the "DRL base" ( #4 and #6 in the wiring diagram I linked at the beginning of my post) is the 7440 base. Well, my car uses a 7443 bulb. And the only option Lightwerkz has when selecting the base for the V6 Triton Switchback is the "7440 7443 7444" option! I didn't even have a choice if I wanted to!

    The last retrofit I did, I simply ordered a pair of switchback rings, hooked one wire up to the turn signal and another to a wire leading to a fuse tap for the radio. DONE! Why is this so complicated?

    Does anyone know what to do? I just want the damn thing to operate as a DRL. I'm thinking my only choice is to hack up the damn jacketed power cable, tap whatever one gives power to the white LED, then run it to the fuse tap.

  • #2
    I managed to find a solution. In case this info is useful to anyone in the future, I stripped the insulation from the cable that attaches to the 7443 adapter. There were three wires: Red (Amber LEDs), Yellow (White LEDs) and Black (Ground/-). I used a wire tap and made a harness attaching to the yellow wire of each unit that leads to the fuse box where a fuse tap is used. Presto, it works.
    Last edited by justalilbit; December 7th, 2018, 09:24 PM.

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    • #3
      I know you already figured it out but Iím wondering...

      Is your OEM 7443 setup the usual dim parking light + bright turn signal? Is it a CK type connection?

      Did you cut the yellow wires (thus bypassing the OEM ďdimĒ connection) when you wired them to the fuse box for DRL use?


      On my dadís CRV (7440 front signals) I ordered the switchbacks as hardwire versions, no bulb socket adapters, just the red,yellow,and black wires on one end. I havenít permanently wired the yellow wires for DRL use but when I temporarily connected them to battery + it did switch to amber when signaling then back to white with the signal off
      Originally posted by HK45
      I don't even look to see what Eddie writes anymore. I'm too busy staring at his avatar.

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      • #4
        I had to do the same on mine (or similar), where I had 7440 in the front signals, but wanted to make them white/amber DRLs, so I ordered the 7443 base and just stripped the jacket and cut the white DRL wire and hooked it up to the ACC with a switch.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Eddie View Post
          I know you already figured it out but Iím wondering...

          Is your OEM 7443 setup the usual dim parking light + bright turn signal? Is it a CK type connection?

          Did you cut the yellow wires (thus bypassing the OEM ďdimĒ connection) when you wired them to the fuse box for DRL use?


          On my dadís CRV (7440 front signals) I ordered the switchbacks as hardwire versions, no bulb socket adapters, just the red,yellow,and black wires on one end. I havenít permanently wired the yellow wires for DRL use but when I temporarily connected them to battery + it did switch to amber when signaling then back to white with the signal off
          If I had noticed the hardwire option, I would have gone with that for sure. I didn't cut the yellow wire, just stripped the coat and tapped it. I know very little about electricity so I honestly don't if it that will cause problems when the car sends power to the parking light wire. My car uses the low beam halogen on low V for DRL, then turn signals on low V as parking lights when low beams are active.

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