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Suzuki AN 400 - HID Projector upgrade

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  • Suzuki AN 400 - HID Projector upgrade

    Hi all,

    Paolo from Sydney here. Been lurking on the forum for quite some time, and now it's time to do my first project.

    I have an Suzuki Burgman / Skywave AN400 - 2014 model. Headlight setup is H7 for low beam, H4 (only 60W coil) for high beam. Needless to say, already did the halo upgrade (dedicate cabling from the battery, Philips Xtremevision bulbs, H4-55W coil on as low beam too..) but the results are just not there. I suppose the optic of the headlight is questionable to say the least.

    It is time to do the upgrade.

    The main problem that I have would be (needless to say) the projector selection. Here my choices:
    - Ballast: Fastbright F3
    - Bulbs: Morimoto if the projectors asks for H1, Phil / Osram if D2S
    - Projectors: who knows.

    I don't want to spend an arm and a leg, and I might have (sigh) space problem as the space available is not "sensational". I read that the Chino Sinolyn are not too bad but some people had experience of burnt coating.. but similarly with the Morimoto.

    What would you recommend?
    - Cheap
    - Small-ish
    - Durable

    Keen to hear a few ideas.

    Thanks!

  • #2
    Welcome to HIDP! The Morimoto Mini H1 7.0 is compact, relatively durable, and very wide. High beam isnt amazing though. Fitting a D2S projector ain't easy in bikes but I don't know the specifics of your bike. Go for Hylux ballasts instead of FastBrights, I feel they're more of a sure bet.

    2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder
    2017 Lexus CT200h F Sport

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    • #3
      Thanks Haloruler64 for the welcome!

      The reason I was considering looking for D2S bulb was mainly because I can find OEM suppliers (e.g. Philips, Osram and the like), where (at least) I know that they have proper UV filter and (possibly) that would lead a decent live of the projector. I have seen images of every kind of projector with the reflective coating peeling off, so.... the more I can do to avoid that, the better it is (newbie here). Not saying that the Mori D1S are bad, but I kind of feel that premium OEMs are one step ahead.

      Perhaps I am wrong?

      Anyway, I bought a used, spare headlight that I would section first to get an idea of the space available.

      ANother option I was considering is LED. However, I feel (again, newbie here) that most of the kits are still a bit young-ish, plus not so many are available with the treaded shaft (it makes life easier!!).

      Comment


      • #4
        For what it's worth, XenonDepot uses real Philips glass capsules. Different internals, but the capsule is identical. You are correct in your line of thought. Here's an XD 5000K bulb against a real Philips D3S. Notice the clean cut on the top rather than the opaque break most bulbs have. Color and shape are identical as well.



        Great idea on the spare headlight! Hopefully you can fit a D2S projector in there.

        LED still hasn't reached HID levels IMO. It's not bad at all, but especially for a bike, you want width and LED projectors are usually pretty narrow.

        2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder
        2017 Lexus CT200h F Sport

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks heaps for the addiitonal info. I was on Facebook lightwerkz page where they have a nice series of shots. Agree, at least for the aftermarket led is still far - and we do not have enough data about longevity either (not yet, at least). With the aftermarket models changing every few months, I do not whink we will actually have some reliabledata for a while....

          I actually just got another kit for my dad's spare car (he's 74, his mechanic put a couple of H4 leds bulbs and he was seeing the road less than before!). So I took control the situation and (car has over 120k miles, so not really worth any real investment) got F3T ballast, Morimoto bulbs and Sinolyn projector. He will not be putting alot of kilometers, so probably it will work.

          In other bulbs i bulbs I noticed exactly what you wrote: the glass cut. Nice in my spare D2S sitting around, opaque in other bulbs.

          It would be interesting a UV test (is it doable? Probably yes but that would require some pricey equipment) of various bulbs.

          PS: I gave for free 4 Hella ballast, 2 years ago. Sitting around, I thought "I am done with this stuff" and got rid of all this stuff.

          Ask me now how much I am regretting it Might not be the best ballast in the world, but in years they never missed a beat...
          Last edited by Starflex978; November 27th, 2018, 01:36 AM. Reason: Inappropriate comment - especially for a new arrived.

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          • #6
            Yeah the glass is not OEM on Morimotos obviously. XenonDepot uses real Philips glass. The internals are different of course.

            Unfortunately, we don't really know how to do a DIY UV test. I looked into it.

            Hellas are great! Real shame. I picked up another set for parts recently, one of mine finally fried.

            2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder
            2017 Lexus CT200h F Sport

            Comment


            • #7
              Only problem I had with the Hellas was the peak draw at the start... I think it was something close to 15/20 A each!

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              • #8
                Yeah you DEFINITELY need harnesses for them. Not ideal for a bike either.

                2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder
                2017 Lexus CT200h F Sport

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Haloruler64 View Post
                  Yeah you DEFINITELY need harnesses for them. Not ideal for a bike either.
                  I actually had them installed for 4 years on a bike Yes, definitely proper harness (2x30A relais, oversized cables and the light going on only after the engine was started ) Worked great, never missed a beat. Great units, really.

                  Now speaking of the mod.. Lookig at the hedlights, I really believe that I may be struggling to find enough space. I still need to get the spare one where I can take some measures, but I fear the space will be limited.

                  Now, I have already read the review of the drop-in H4 HID modules. The russian guy from TestLab reviewed them recently (like this one : https://tinyurl.com/ybsmo4jf )

                  Is there any test done here?

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                  • #10
                    That's awesome! I hear some bikes have weak electrical systems so OEM ballasts are too much. Ignoring that, Hellas are fantastic.

                    Oh I saw a review of those. Suuuuper narrow but not awful. I wouldn't use them.

                    2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder
                    2017 Lexus CT200h F Sport

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Starflex978 View Post

                      I have an Suzuki Burgman / Skywave AN400 - 2014 model. Headlight setup is H7 for low beam, H4 (only 60W coil) for high beam. Needless to say, already did the halo upgrade (dedicate cabling from the battery, Philips Xtremevision bulbs, H4-55W coil on as low beam too..) but the results are just not there.
                      My Yamaha Fazer 600 S2 had the same setup, as many bikes do, an H7 for low beam and the H4 for high beam without the H4's low beam connected. The is a reason for this (and I found it out the hard way). The bike's electrics are calculated to the exact limits. The magneto can produce as much current as needed to power all the bike's electrics, ONE headlight filament bulb and the remaining juice is charging the battery. If you draw extra current for the second bulb, your battery will probably not charge enough and you will end up having charging problems sooner or later. Your magneto will also run in higher temperatures struggling to produce enough current to cover the increased load continuously, leading to reduced life. Do install a switch (if you haven't already) to turn on or off the second headlight according to your needs, and this goes for both filament or HID. Also install a digital voltmeter to monitor your charging voltage and your battery's status. If you monitor your battery's voltage, which directly corresponds to its SOC (state of charge), you will end up turning the second headlight on only on special occasions where you will actually need the extra light. I have retrofitted Mini H1 v6.0 projectors to my bike since 2012 (they have proved very reliable up to now by the way - fingers crossed - bought from an aliexpress seller named DLand) and during the first months of usage I faced the charging issues with my battery. After installing a switch and kept most of the times the second headlight off, I never had low battery SOC again. At any case, your voltmeter will guide you if you can run both headlights continuously or not. You should also replace all filament bulbs (indicators, brake lights, position lights) with led bulbs, you will save about 20 watts from the position T10 bulbs (which are always on), this means aprox an extra 1.5A available for your battery charging or the second headlight.

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                      • #12
                        Hi Jomor,

                        Damn it - this one slipped through!

                        No, the weak magneto is not my problem luckily. I have had the same bike for the past 10 years (well, this is a new one but exactly the same model as the previous) and I have always had either the double halo (55w+55W) or the double HID (35w + 35W). There was a period that I had a 100/80 as H4(error) and didnít have any problem... but I guess i was really stretching each watt. Have always running the lights with an oversized dedicated harness (to run the Hellas too). It was definitely the problem of one of my mates bike, so I know exactly what you mean! And I remember using philips led stops and led position lights to save a bunch of watts!

                        I remember old discussions on the VFR forum about the rectiffier - and actually it was going in the opposite direction. If you donít put enough load on it, what is not absorbed is dissipated. Didnít really investigate that much in that space, this is more for the sake of the discussion. I can see if I can dust off the thread from somewhere...

                        WHat I an finding is that my (probably, our) bike reflectors that run the infamous H4 are probably more designed for the 60W coil rather than for the 55W - in essence, when you have the LB on yes, there is a bit more light... but it is a bit scattered everywhere, including where it creates some glare. So, I suppose, it is probably a cheap way to use a cheap bulb (H4) with a decent output (1800lm, going by memory). Why not an H9 - I do not know. Maybe really to save a few bucks.

                        I am shortlisting a few options: a decent HID system would actually cost quite a bit, especially if i want first tier bulbs... will definitely look also for te DLand projectors!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Starflex978 View Post

                          I remember old discussions on the VFR forum about the rectiffier - and actually it was going in the opposite direction. If you donít put enough load on it, what is not absorbed is dissipated. Didnít really investigate that much in that space, this is more for the sake of the discussion. I can see if I can dust off the thread from somewhere...
                          a colleague of mine has a VFR. Many electrical problems, he even got on fire while riding. His mechanic removed the HIDs as they were a suspect for the fire's root cause, but I examined the wiring schematic and it seems to me there is a bad design, there is too much electrical power distributed via a very thin wire. There are other secondary issues (ground related) too. This is a good example of how critical the usage of a seperate relay harness for powering the HIDs is. If he had used a dedicated relay harness for the lights, the problem on a sensitive factory wiring like this could be avoided.

                          I am shortlisting a few options: a decent HID system would actually cost quite a bit, especially if i want first tier bulbs... will definitely look also for te DLand projectors!
                          Having done 3 retrofits with DLand Mini H1 V6.0 and V7.1. I now have these on my wish list as a next project, but my problem is that I do not have any vehicles without projectors left

                          Regarding the cost, if your budget is limited you can start your project with cheaper bulbs like CNlight or Yeaky and then invest on oem quality bulbs later on

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                          • #14
                            Yeah you DEFINITELY need harnesses for them. Not ideal for a bike either.

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