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Issues with Morimoto D2S HID kit - HELP!

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  • Issues with Morimoto D2S HID kit - HELP!

    So I completed a retrofit on my 2013 Honda Pilot using the Morimoto D2S kit from TRS, and am experiencing a strange issue. My hid bulbs will randomly, and intermittently shut off. It is happening to both driver and passenger side (mostly driver side), and there is no particular pattern. They fire right back up if I turn them off and back on. I have swapped ballasts, igniters, and bulbs from side to side and still experiencing it. I have had my battery and alternator tested, and they were both good. I have used a multimeter to test the voltage at the battery, and ballast and they are both between 13-14v and pretty consistent. I have checked all connections, and everything looks good. So, does anyone have any advice oir experience with this? I am about to just throw the HID kit out the window and throw in a D2S LED kit into the Mini D2S 4.0's.

  • #2
    Test the voltage at the ballasts while the engine is running and the lights are on, if they are off when testing the voltage, it proves little or nothing. You must have a similar load on the wiring to test for voltage.
    D1S is where its at, Radically better EMI and RFI performance. Only the new Japanese cars still use D2 bulbs, the others have all changed to D1S.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by D1S View Post
      Test the voltage at the ballasts while the engine is running and the lights are on, if they are off when testing the voltage, it proves little or nothing. You must have a similar load on the wiring to test for voltage.
      So, just testing the voltage at the ballast connection from the harness while the engine running isn't sufficient? I would think that would determine that the ballast is getting a consistent 12v. If it's failing after that point, it would be a faulty ballast, no?

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      • #4
        No because without a real load on it, you have no idea whats the actual voltage drop when the light is powered. How can you know its getting 12 volts when on, unless you measure it. You have no idea how much current its pulling and this effects the voltage drop. Also if you have a high resistance connection somewhere you would see full voltage until you put a load on it, then the bottom drops out under a true load.
        D1S is where its at, Radically better EMI and RFI performance. Only the new Japanese cars still use D2 bulbs, the others have all changed to D1S.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by D1S View Post
          No because without a real load on it, you have no idea whats the actual voltage drop when the light is powered. How can you know its getting 12 volts when on, unless you measure it. You have no idea how much current its pulling and this effects the voltage drop. Also if you have a high resistance connection somewhere you would see full voltage until you put a load on it, then the bottom drops out under a true load.
          Ok, thank you for the information. So, let's say that I test the voltage at the ballast and it's not getting enough power. Where do I start looking for an issue?

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          • #6
            Something I forgot to mention is that one of the igniters I was originally sent had some sort of problem. It was arcing when I fired the lights, and I could visibly see the electricity zap (sounded like a bug zapper as well) between the igniter and lock washer on the back of the projector. I contacted TRS and they sent me a new igniter, and I'm not longer having that issue, but I was curious if that may have damaged the ballasts somehow. I did swap that faulty igniter to both ballasts when I was troubleshooting.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by ceub1115 View Post

              Ok, thank you for the information. So, let's say that I test the voltage at the ballast and it's not getting enough power. Where do I start looking for an issue?
              Look for bad splices or connections or a bad grounding.

              D1S is where its at, Radically better EMI and RFI performance. Only the new Japanese cars still use D2 bulbs, the others have all changed to D1S.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by D1S View Post

                Look for bad splices or connections or a bad grounding.
                Everything looks good. I swapped the ballasts around and have yet to experience a light go out. I did notice that the ballast on the side that was experience most of the issues is buzzing quite a bit louder than the other.

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                • #9
                  Grab some DLT F3 Fastbright

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by niZmO_Man View Post
                    Grab some DLT F3 Fastbright
                    Are they better quality than the Morimoto's? The reason I went with Morimoto is because I assumed because of their reputation and price point I would not have to deal with issues that some of the lesser components encounter.

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                    • #11
                      So, I have swapped the sides the ballasts were on, and I have not experienced any issues for 3 days (about 2 hours of drive time). I am still uneasy about the reliability of my set up, and hope to pin-point the exact cause of the issue soon by swapping parts to isolate the problem competent. In the meantime, I am enjoying the incredible output of these lights. This is my first true projector retrofit, and it makes me wonder why all cars do not have headlight set ups similar to this. It seems so much safer to me while driving at night.

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                      • #12
                        The DLT in my car are about 4 years old now, fires up Philips, Osram, aftermarket bulbs without issue. It's also copped some hot weather (R32's engine bay is quite hot too, especially during track days). Although no extreme cold, as it doesn't get that cold in my area. Morimoto's quality is better than most of the cheap crap out there, but I haven't dealt with them. I had an old pair of ballast from them, they were slow, so I never used them again. Good thing for you Americans is they're "local" so warranty/customer service is good.

                        Manufacturers want to save money, so spending $20 (not accurate) on molded plastic + aluminium vapour deposit (reflectors) is cheaper than a projector setup. Also the regulations doesn't "demand" better headlights so don't have to spend as much (unless you're Koito). They made backup cameras mandatory but not self levelling headlights.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by niZmO_Man View Post
                          The DLT in my car are about 4 years old now, fires up Philips, Osram, aftermarket bulbs without issue. It's also copped some hot weather (R32's engine bay is quite hot too, especially during track days). Although no extreme cold, as it doesn't get that cold in my area. Morimoto's quality is better than most of the cheap crap out there, but I haven't dealt with them. I had an old pair of ballast from them, they were slow, so I never used them again. Good thing for you Americans is they're "local" so warranty/customer service is good.

                          Manufacturers want to save money, so spending $20 (not accurate) on molded plastic + aluminium vapour deposit (reflectors) is cheaper than a projector setup. Also the regulations doesn't "demand" better headlights so don't have to spend as much (unless you're Koito). They made backup cameras mandatory but not self levelling headlights.
                          We have pretty drastic temperature swings in the midwest (Arkansas), so I'm curious to see how my setup responds. I have had really no issue with TRS and their customer service, so I'm confident if I can pinpoint the issue they will take care of it promptly.

                          I did notice last night while I was test firing the lights to see if I could replicate the issue I was having is that the passenger side now flickers every now and again, and it did fail to fire a couple of times. I am starting to think it's just a faulty ballast.

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