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2006 Wrx 4TL-R Retrofit with Morimoto xB 3.0 Halos. Question on projector sizing and halo sizing.

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  • 2006 Wrx 4TL-R Retrofit with Morimoto xB 3.0 Halos. Question on projector sizing and halo sizing.

    I am looking to do a bi-xenon hid retrofit in my 2006 wrx and I wanted to get some feedback before I dive head first into this. My previous experience with headlight modding would be splitting the case and painting the shrouds and that's about it. So I am conformable with baking my headlights and I'm confident that I can split and reseal them successfully. I recently bought the Retro-Quik kit off of TRS and I' ve been getting some mixed answers from their rep and other retrofitters. My questions for this project are:

    1. I have read mixed thoughts on whether the Morimoto d2s 4TL-R projectors will fit in my housing. When I google "06 wrx bi-xenon retrofit" the first link for TRS says 06-14 subaru impreza, but when I click on the link the webpage says 08-14 imprezas. I contacted TRS and the rep said that those projectors won't fit for my car, but I also contacted two retrofitters local to me and they both said that the 4TL-R projectors should fit, but I just wanted to see if anyone had experience with this specific retrofit before.

    2. I was also wondering if anyone had a good size suggestion for what size halos I should get. I am planning on getting the Morimoto xB switchback halos that have the premade anchor points on them and I wasn't sure what size to get and whether or not the premade anchors affected what size I should get. I've read that 80mm or 90mm would be a good size and I was wondering if anyone has done one vs the other to let me know which would work best.

    3. Stupid question here, when the Retro-Quik kit arrived, I opened everything to make sure nothing was damaged and I was curious to see how the bulbs stayed in the projectors. I could not for the life of me figure out how to seat the bulbs in the projectors with the bulb holders. I didn't want to break anything, so I decided it would be best to ask. So my question is, how do you get the d2s bulbs in the bulb holders without snapping the plastic bulb holders. It seems like I have to seat the bulb in the projector first, then put the bulb holder on, but I'm not sure.

    Those are all my questions, I would be greatly appreciated if anyone could give me some input. Thanks in advance!
    Last edited by blaineabriatis; December 11th, 2016, 01:03 PM.

  • #2
    I actually just did this retrofit. First of all, the bracket that comes with it won't fit. You have to make your own top portion of the bracket. There is a member on here who can make a bracket for you if you need to. I just made mine out of ABS plastic.
    Don't know about halo size, I've heard 90mm works best on 08-14 models. They seem to be similar in size.
    The bulb holders got me at first too. Basically you get the smaller end of the bulb holder around the plastic on the bulb. Then you push the bulb into the projector, making sure it seats in there, and turn the bulb holder to lock it into place. Make sure you do it before you put the projectors in the headlights, because they're hard to get to when it's together.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

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    • #3
      According to prolightz you just need some trimming to use the brackets, would that be the other option based on your experience?

      Yeah the holder is weird. But wow what a good solid grip! I'm doing my 06 sti soon with these btw.

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      • #4
        I guess you could try trimming it to get it to fit. I didn't take many pictures during my retrofit, but I have to take out the passenger light because the ball joint failed (not related to mounting).
        I know when they had the MH1 in the retroquick you had to trim the veins on the back of the factory bracket, that's if you mount it from the back. Lightwerkz also said that trimming the top would be required for it to sit flush against the bracket, that's if you mount it from the front.
        Basically what I did was use a piece of traced out plastic and drilled four holes in it. The way it worked is that when you tighten the screws on either side it pulls the projector closer to the bracket. Problem I had was the screws I used were too long, so I added washers on the lower bracket included in the kit. It sticks out further than the factory projector, but it fit under the shroud just fine.
        Also, whenever you get to the part with the ball joint, just unscrew it, I ended up breaking them in both headlights.

        Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

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        • #5
          Do you know the username of the member that makes the brackets? And what are you referring to when you talk about the ball joint? TRS won't send a set of directions and on their website the button for the install guide is deselected for some reason. I can't find a guide anywhere and when I keep asking them, they just keep insisting that I return the current set.

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          • #6
            Hinyo
            2006 Chevy Cobalt - SRX Bi-xenon/Denso 35w
            2011 GMC Terrain V6 - 4TL-R retrofit

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            • #7
              ^ Yeah, Hinyo could probably make you some. You'll need new screws too.
              The ball joint is what holds the high beam reflector/projector bracket to the housing itself. It's very difficult to pop out, and it breaks easily if you have the high beam bulb in. That's how I broke both of mine. If you look at the DIYs on Hawkeye retrofits you'll see what I mean.
              Also, Lightwerkz has a MH1 7.0 retroquick kit using aluminum brackets, you can look at it and see how it mounts in there.

              Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

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              • #8
                Originally posted by FSanti87 View Post
                Thanks for the TAG!

                Lightwerkz Global Inc. Currently has my range of brackets in stock. I don't have one for the 4gTL since TRS Carries if but I did make the one that lightwerkz carries. I do the drop shipping on it. Currently only have 1 left stock and reordering in Stainless instead of Aluminum for this next order. Shoot me a pm or check my sig for alternate means of contact.


                Nathanael Carriere

                Facebook l Instagram l Website l Blog

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                • #9
                  The problem with the fitment is that it won't sit flush against the factory bracket unless you start cutting the factory bracket. It's not too big of a deal considering the 4TL-R is shorter than the factory projector and you can still use the factory adjustment knobs. The biggest issue I've had with it is getting to the bulbs while the headlights are in the car since the projector bowl is shorter than factory.

                  Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by DejectedSquatch
                    The problem with the fitment is that it won't sit flush against the factory bracket unless you start cutting the factory bracket. It's not too big of a deal considering the 4TL-R is shorter than the factory projector and you can still use the factory adjustment knobs. The biggest issue I've had with it is getting to the bulbs while the headlights are in the car since the projector bowl is shorter than factory.

                    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
                    We didn't use the retroquik brackets actually , just some trimming and bolting to the oem case. We didn't remove the ball joint part, left everything in so it was pretty simple. The projector is actually a bit more sunk, about 3mm



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                    • #11
                      It looks clean! A lot cleaner than mine. So you just bored out the holes on the sides? I tried that and the projector sat crooked, and you used the factory points at the top too? That's pretty good.

                      Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by DejectedSquatch
                        It looks clean! A lot cleaner than mine. So you just bored out the holes on the sides? I tried that and the projector sat crooked, and you used the factory points at the top too? That's pretty good.

                        Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
                        A little shaving here and there. The bottom semi circle things were a good guide for straightness. Just new mounting points with nuts/bolts at the bottom, and I believe the tops were ovaled as they were very close.

                        Work was done by Dynamotorsports... Tony The Tiger on the forums.



                        The wall is 200' from the car

                        4tl-r Low beams, Philips X-Treme Ultinon at 50w



                        Combined with Philips HIR high beams



                        Cutoff, intensity at 200'. Notice my shadow for sharpness, I am about 15' from the wall.



                        Notes... these are great distance projectors but lack width intensity. I'll wait for some dark country drives to comment further.

                        The step is way too large... seems to be a common problem with aftermarket projectors. With the top of the elbow in annoying almost no drop aim the left side drops to the road too soon.... Oem was far better with the smaller step!
                        Last edited by blurred; December 30th, 2016, 04:42 AM.

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                        • #13
                          I have to agree with you on the step, it's pretty dramatic. You'll really notice it whenever you're going downhill. If I get these lights apart again I'd have to get someone to make a custom shield. It could be awesome with a curved small step shield.

                          Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

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                          • #14
                            Bumping this because I'm about to install these in my 06 WRX (using STi housings). So it looks like the consensus was no brackets required, mount projectors from the front using the semi-circles as level guides? That's what I did with my first retro using S2000 projectors, and I believe it worked out well.

                            It sounds like spacing the projector out a little may even be beneficial, to get it closer to the shroud and gain width?

                            Lastly, I have noticed the large step issue with some projectors. The easy solution is to just shave down the left side of the shield, correct?

                            Thanks!

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