Simple adapter for mounting a Mini in a 2" diameter hole (with pictures)

[satrya]

I ran into the issue of mounting my Morimoto Mini D2S onto a 2" diameter hole. In my case, I can rely on the alignment of the panel (that has the 2" hole) for the projector's yaw and pitch alignment. All that remains is the tilt.

Here's one solution I came up with, using hardware store materials from the plumbing and electrical aisles. One characteristic of this mod is that it retains the shortest distance between highest point of the lens and the panel (that has the mounting hole). In other words, it doesn't require the projectors to be mounted further back into the engine bay compared to the common mounting method for the Minis.

I'm open to suggestions.

Materials:

• 2" threaded pipe (x2)
• 2" plastic insulating bushing (x2)
• 1.25" to 1" reducing washer (comes in a pack of 2)

Tools:

• saw (I used a metal saw; a band saw would probably make cleaner cuts)
• routing bit (to enlarge the reducing washer's inner diameter)

The first picture shows one of the threaded pipes before any modification. The second picture shows the approximate orientation of the pipe with respect to the 2" opening.

[satrya]

The insulating bushing packaging is shown in the first picture. The second picture takes the unit out, and also shows the back side of the packaging. I don't recall whether this was from Lowe's or Home Depot. My guess is that the barcode applies to both, and if your smartphone has a barcode scanner, it may point to where you can buy one.

[satrya]

Only the middle part of the threaded pipe is needed. Discard the 2 edges.


The inner diameter of the metal reducing washer need to be enlarged a bit, just so that the thread in the back of the Mini D2S can allow the washer to slide all the way through. I suspect this modification isn't necessary for the Mini H1.


Below is the conceptual stackup of the 3 parts.

[satrya]

Start with the Mini D2S as is:


Remove all pieces aft of the reflector bowl. Then, insert the trimmed threaded pipe, followed by the reducing washer, and then the 4th piece that is originally mounted aft of the reflector bowl. This piece secures the threaded pipe and reducing washer to the reflector bowl.

[satrya]

After that, it becomes a Mini with a 2" diameter thread. Placing it through the 2" housing opening, and securing the HID capsule looks like this:


And finally, the assembly is secured by the grey plastic bushing.

[StupidPig]

How can you adjust the aim if you mount the projector like that?

[satrya]

How can you adjust the aim if you mount the projector like that?

Hence my 2nd sentence in my first post. In my particular case, I tested and the surface I'm mounting it to is relatively level. Any fine adjustments can be made by tweaking the mounting of the headlight housing.
I suppose it would still apply to reflectors (that usually have adjuster screws) with a 2" hole.

[av911]

Compatible with mini H1?

[satrya]

Compatible with mini H1?

I don't have a Mini H1, but as far as I know, in the back area, the main difference is that the threaded portion has a slightly smaller diameter than the Mini D2S. That in itself makes it a bit easier, because the inner diameter of the metal reducing washer will probably work just fine without additional enlargement.

One word of caution though, along what StupidPig asked, is that you need to make sure you're comfortable with the ability to adjust aim. In my case, all I need is very minor yaw and pitch adjustment during the install, which can be achieved by loosening the "4th original piece" (as described in the second picture in the 4th post above) a bit to allow for ~2 degrees of yaw and/or pitch.

If you need more, then one way is to add wedge inserts while that 4th piece is loosened, and then welding them together afterwards.

[soundman98]

it's a very interesting take on a different mounting solution. i imagine there is a way to use the same method ans still maintain the adjustment capability, but it escapes me at the moment.

and the last thread i remember that used pvc was a black c5 corvette. i have the link saved, just not on this pc..

[StupidPig]

Yes, there is one using pvc tube coupling to mount projector onto the reflector, which still allow factory aim adjustment. Mounting on the headlight housing is, however, the first time I seen. Which as I said, I'm not sure how the aim can be adjusted. Well, may be as the OP said, his headlight is actually adjusted as a whole, or just need very minor adjust.

[satrya]

Yes, there is one using pvc tube coupling to mount projector onto the reflector, which still allow factory aim adjustment. Mounting on the headlight housing is, however, the first time I seen. Which as I said, I'm not sure how the aim can be adjusted. Well, may be as the OP said, his headlight is actually adjusted as a whole, or just need very minor adjust.

Yes. I wish I figured out a way to show in pictures how loosening the "4th piece" (as I referred to in the 4th post) allows a ball-socket action between the reflector bowl and the threaded pipe.

Maybe once I do a test alignment fit with the headlight housing attached to my car's front frame, I can show some pictures of how much adjustment this arrangement allows for. The last time I did a test fitment (left hand side only; shown below), I was happy with the alignment of the Mini D2S relative to the e55 replica (EvoX-R) mounted below it that has yaw and pitch screw adjustments. That led me to suspect that the back side of many headlight housings are relatively level as well, probably because that is their natural CAD model frame of reference.

One good aspect about this mounting method is the fail safe nature of it. In the event that the "4th piece" loosens up, the projector will more likely sag down, hence projecting a less useful pattern without blinding oncoming traffic. At that point, I would clearly notice it and have to open the headlights again. For this reason, I plan to glue the mount once the alignment is done.

[satrya]

Which as I said, I'm not sure how the aim can be adjusted. Well, may be as the OP said, his headlight is actually adjusted as a whole, or just need very minor adjust.

Just to close out this thread with a result picture. Yes, this is for a minor adjustment roughly pictured below.

The Mini D2S runs a Morimoto 3000K capsule. Approximately 5" below it, and 6" towards the center, is a pair of TRS EvoX-R (Hella e55 replica) running a 4300K capsule (unknown brand from TRS garage sale). The e55r have full yaw and pitch adjustment.

Note: The left e55r needs more inwards yaw adjustment. Also, it has a foreground limiter shield, which terminates its spread 1~5" above the bottom of the wall.

I loosened the "4th threaded piece" (see post#4) and allowed it to be a ball-and-socket joint. I was able to adjust yaw and pitch of the Mini D2S by about a halfway height gap between the Mini D2S and e55r's wall output from ~12ft. It may not provide the most flexible amount of adjustment, but was more than enough when the wall they are mounted (i.e. the back of the headlight housing) to is already properly upright.