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Mini H1 kit Cutoff at an angle

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  • #31
    Very clear illustration, thank you for that. i had to read a few times because english is not my first language.
    Adjusting the cutoffshield could be considered indeed, but there is the need again to re-open the headlight and after - as you mentioned- i need to adjust a lot more than that, looks like to much of tampering.

    adding 5% tint should to nothing to the hotspot you said, this video looks like the hotspot will change a bit though. watch from 1:50 to see the change quick https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rK1m03af7FQ


    Aimed the headlights a far down as possible, to see the ground image before starting adjusting the bulb, there does it start getting weird, this should already clarify there is something wrong within the whole projector.
    https://ibb.co/1mbZfsj

    the aim ''step'' is further but when looking in front op the car, the line where the ''light'' begins start earlier https://ibb.co/DtqmyzY
    left side is right projector.

    played with the bulb again, spaced a little on the top and moved the whole bulb upward a few millimeter.
    this is the closed i could get: https://ibb.co/88ZLRND

    you see the right step does have less lenght too https://ibb.co/KyN4vy7

    maybe i should go back to the ''old'' replaced projector, that is the left on on this pic: https://ibb.co/8NTpTFg
    to get them both look at least a little the same in sense of ''çutoff-step''
    Last edited by Joren; January 27th, 2020, 12:38 PM.

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    • #32
      Originally posted by Joren View Post
      Very clear illustration, thank you for that. i had to read a few times because english is not my first language.
      Adjusting the cutoffshield could be considered indeed, but there is the need again to re-open the headlight and after - as you mentioned- i need to adjust a lot more than that, looks like to much of tampering.
      You're welcome. I looked at the new images you linked in post #31. Don't take this the wrong way, but since you've made the effort to make sure the hotspot, aim, etc. to be as proper as possible, perhaps in time you will get used to the passenger side's "step" seemingly pointing too far to the left due to optical illusion.

      Originally posted by Joren View Post
      adding 5% tint should to nothing to the hotspot you said, this video looks like the hotspot will change a bit though.
      What I meant in the sentence below is not that tint will not affect the hotspot. Rather, it is the opposite, in that tint will affect the hotspot. However, since placing tint on the headlight housing lens on just the hotspot is almost impossible, what I'm claiming is that the tint will also affect the output on other parts as seen on the road.
      Originally posted by satrya View Post
      I wouldn't reduce output in the hotspot, as it is very difficult to control reduction in the area you'd rather be dimmer and not affect other parts of the beam by adding tint.
      Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

      3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

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      • #33
        OokNot taken wrong, I just do whatever feels good and what advice i get from here.

        You are 50% right about your optical illusion.
        As you see in this picture, im in front of the car, between the 2 headlights resting myself on the hood.
        https://ibb.co/KyN4vy7

        There is clearly a difference in both lenght and cutoff angle, you see there is more blue in the right projector that starts earlier in the "horizontal" part. Also the "fade" towards the wall is les and stops more abruptly on the right side.

        Seriously starting to consider reopening the headlight AGAIN and replacing the projector with the old one. On the wall that projector looked seriously ****ed but on the road it is okay. Seen in these pics https://ibb.co/BN0pfx5
        https://ibb.co/3dcwXWp
        As i earlier mentioned i replaced the left one because i thought it whas bad, but im starting to think the right one is the bad one.
        I modified - as far is my setup goes - the left "old" projector to be much better than it whas is the last picture

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        • #34
          If opening the housing is ok, then what about considering an OE projector instead? By that I don't mean necessarily a projector from a Volvo, but something from an OE vehicle. Most of the time, it won't come with clear lenses. The trick is to find a small enough projector. And while you're at it, find something that takes D2S bulb. This will usually rid you from the hotspot misalignment issue, especially if you buy OE D2S bulbs.

          As for projector size, there used to be a thread that is stickied that lists projector dimensions. You could compare that with what you have to see which one is compatible.
          Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

          3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

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          • #35
            In the first place i would have liked to replace it with a Volvo V40 OE Xenon unit and get the wiring tranfered from the reflector unit, because its much nicer. But that would be a pain in the ass bacause a Xenon unit is a whole other setup. Also considered wireloom to be transfered but there is not enough information about this retrofit.

            Back to OE-lens, i have chosen this retrofit to make it easy, also here in holland there is not a real market for those lenses and you have to find one by accident, at least one that fits.

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            • #36
              I see.

              Are you open to an option somewhere in between OE and aftermarket? If you can find a pair of semi broken headlight housings with OE xenon projectors, you can get the projector + bulb + ballast assembly. Then, using your current (aftermarket) HID wiring harness, change the connector that goes from the OE ballast that is supposed to go to the OE vehicle wiring into the connector that matches your aftermarket HID wiring harness. I assume it is usually a 9006 connector; pairing to the connector from the aftermarket harness that should look like the one on the right (picture below):


              You may need to mount the OE xenon using 3 long screws that connect the mounting flange to the OE reflector assembly.
              Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

              3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

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              • #37
                Well im open to building, but only if i could find one. Found 1 set of EO xenon projectors units, about 3 hrs drive from where i live, Which is a lot for Dutch people haha.
                The set is about $150 (€180) and the adjustment pin is broken inside the unit. I believe OE xenons fit D3S bulbs with starters or/and ballast plugged directly on the bulb, i do not believe the Aharon H1 ballast will fire these bulbs, or do they? Plus the conversion to H1 doesnt work i guess. By that i mean that ive learned that bowl-(bulb)-lens are build to work with the specific bulb and changing them would not work.

                For the time being i try to get used to it, or change back to the "old projector", maybe ill find a foil to break down the cutoff at least a bit

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                • #38
                  Before you start that path, I should mention that the OE-aftermarket transplant may not be trivial. For one, D3S bulbs require different type of ballast than D1S and D2S bulbs. Generally, D1S and D2S run on different voltage than D3S and D4S. D1S and D3S have integrated iginiter, while D2S and D4S have igniters that are separate from the bulbs. That is, replacing a D2S and D4S bulb doesn't require replacing the igniter, as the igniter is not stuck as a part of the bulb.

                  Three other important factors to consider:
                  (1) Aftermarket ballasts might not be compatible with OE bulbs (of the same "class"; aftermarket ballasts for H1 bulbs typically follow the D1S/D2S camp instead of the D3S/D4S camp), although that is usually not the case. The opposite is more likely; that is OE ballasts may not be able to power aftermarket bulbs. So, as long as your H1 ballast powers a D1S or D2S bulb, it should be ok.
                  (2) The bulb base for D1S, D2S, D3S, and D4S are all slightly different. There may be 1 or more notches/tabs in the projector area where the bulb base is supposed to sit that is different for the 4 bulb types. I've seen people just cut notches on the plastic base of the HID bulb to allow D2S bulb work with a projector originally intended for D3S or something else. The good news is that the location of HID arc, provided that the HID bulb base sits properly, is the same across the 4 types. This means that if the OE projector normally takes D3S bulbs, and you adjusted a D2S' HID bulb base to match the projector's notches/tabs, then the light output should be ok.
                  (3) The way each bulb type (D1S, D2S, ..) is secured to the projector could be slightly different, but this should be more about the integrated (D1S, D3S) vs separate (D2S, D4S) igniters. Some bulb holders can handle all 4 types.

                  So, there will be some additional experimentation.

                  On an unrelated note, perhaps someone has posted some alternate retrofits of the same vehicle?
                  Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

                  3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    I have searhed multiple hours to find others who build Xenon in a V40 reflector headlight unit, could not find one. except for one polish company who made them for clients, Only with pictures and parts.

                    I have not searhed others who build D2S/D4S using A aftermarket (H1) ballast. thanks for your info about those, but this seems nothing for me to mess around with in the first place, the best way for me is just to make the H1 work properly.

                    since we are talking, the OE-reflectors in the V40 headlight assembly are not secured very well, since the Projectors are relatively quite heavy, the cutoff bounces around when driving on brick roads or when driving through gaps etc. in the road. I want to find a way - as you know by now - to make the cutoff less clear so this side effect wont occur too, or i would have to find a way to strengthen the reflector in the housing, this would be easy possible, but only than it is very hard to keep the leveling mechanism work from inside the car, and i need this to work.

                    maybe ill have to search for frosted lenses, hope to find any 2.5 inch lenses with the correct bulging (if its called that way)

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                    • #40
                      Regarding alternate projectors, perhaps this thread can be useful: https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/for...erable-content

                      it is a little old, so it might not provide information on the projector you may obtain.

                      The issue of OE reflector's mount not sturdy enough to support a projector is not uncommon. (sorry for the double negative)
                      If it becomes too much of an issue, one remedy is to devise your own way of mounting the projector. One method is called the JNC method (from a member's name JNC) where you use brackets to secure the projector from the bottom surface of the housing plus at least 1 more mounting point. But in general, aligning this kind of mount is challenging.

                      Alternatively, you can bolt reinforcement brackets onto the OE reflector, with the projector already there. You'd have to investigate which way the reflector flexes, and then place metal brackets along that flexing direction to stiffen it up. It may be possible to hide the metal brackets on the rear surface, and hide any screw that shows up in front with a shroud. This way, you retain the OE alignment screws.
                      Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

                      3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        so back with another and probably last update.

                        first i have to come back to satrya about the optical illusion, found a empty parkinglot and parked the car with the lights aimed down via the adjustment wheel inside the car. i stand next to the car on the passenger side to watch the right cutoff at the same angle i would normally see the left cutoff from inside the car. and yes the angle magically went ''good''.

                        there whas still something off with the right projector tho; when aimed down the right projector would travel less far and would ''aim down more'' than the left side. same effect when driving over bumps.

                        so got my old projector and made some adjustments to fix that the cutoff would be good, it would be realy blurry around the elbow/step at first.
                        bent the cutoffshield about 1.5 mm towards the bowl, added some alu-tape on the base of the cutoff flap to make it sit more straight up and spaced the lens via the top screws with about 2 mm with some washers,on the bottom no spacers where added, got the cutoff really good with a nice blue line on top.

                        i opened up the whole headlightunit again inside and did some tests like put the ''front glas'' (i know its plastic) of the unit in front of the lens to check if the cutoff would stil be good when the proejctor would be installed in the headlight unit.

                        after confirming, i rebuild the old projector inside the unit and resealed it again with Butyl
                        cutoff travel is realy good but the step would be stil be visible due to optical illusion. so i say problem solved.

                        since we are talking, i have a H9/H11 splitter to (also) power the High-beam solenoid of the bi-xenon H1 projector, would the high beam (bi xenon)still be posible if i removed the ugly yellow H9 high beam bulb from the splitter, so the high beam activation will only power the solenoid? or would this confuse the can-bus system to a place the high beam would not work, would be whining al the time or only whine when high-beam is up?
                        Last edited by Joren; February 4th, 2020, 10:57 PM.

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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by Joren View Post
                          first i have to come back to satrya about the optical illusion, found a empty parkinglot and parked the car with the lights aimed down via the adjustment wheel inside the car. i stand next to the car on the passenger side to watch the right cutoff at the same angle i would normally see the left cutoff from inside the car. and yes the angle magically went ''good''.
                          Yes, in OE projectors, the fuzzier cutoff reduces the chance something like this results in customers calling the dealer I suppose.

                          Originally posted by Joren View Post
                          there whas still something off with the right projector tho; when aimed down the right projector would travel less far and would ''aim down more'' than the left side. same effect when driving over bumps.
                          This is somewhat difficult for me to imagine. If the image cast by the left & right projectors aimed forward and to a wall ahead look similar enough but not when aimed furthest down, it may be that the adjusters' max pitch angle are not the same; say the driver side aftermarket projector might hit something earlier when aimed down. Another more far fetched explanation is that in one of the projectors, the shield sits a bit farther from the bulb, but made up by the lens sitting slightly closer. When aimed at a surface perpendicular to the projector's axis (like a wall), the images may look identical. But when projected on an oblique surface (e.g. projectors pitched down on the road), the two projectors don't cast identical images.

                          Originally posted by Joren View Post
                          since we are talking, i have a H9/H11 splitter to (also) power the High-beam solenoid of the bi-xenon H1 projector, would the high beam (bi xenon)still be posible if i removed the ugly yellow H9 high beam bulb from the splitter, so the high beam activation will only power the solenoid? or would this confuse the can-bus system to a place the high beam would not work, would be whining al the time or only whine when high-beam is up?
                          I'm not familiar with how cab-bus systems work, so I can't really comment there.
                          Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

                          3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

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