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So I have a 2006 Dodge Charger and I have the D2S 4.0’s but the D2S is slightly too long. I’ve seen where someone on other forum drilled a bigger hole in the back of the headlights housing and used a plumbers cap (metal) to have an extended and further back surface to mount to so that the projector sits farther back. Is this the best method or is there another better option to get it to set farther back?
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Welcome to HID Planet! Generally you'd want to do the "nut and bolt" method to recess the projector further back. You can use anything to extend the housing, like PVC pipe . -
Thank you! I’m glad to finally have better projectors. I have Spec-D headlights but I’m going to get a pair of oem reflector housings to retrofit. What exactly is the nut and bolt method or the pvc pipe method? Also I’m thinking about grabbing the D2S 5.0’s but when I see a picture of them conspired I really don’t see a huge difference. The only thing that leans me too it is the step but what’s pushing me away is pictures I’ve seen have had hot spots white the 4.0’s are pretty uniform. Also I love how the 4.0’s are so wide and I don’t know, because of the lack of reviews I’ve seen, if the 5.0’s are just as wide or wider.Originally posted by Haloruler64 View Post
P.S. This is the light output of my Spec-D’s now: https://m.imgur.com/a/KMLzcTKComment
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What do you mean by uniform?
Lightwerkz has a great video on the nut and bolt method. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlCPj92IP-Q
5.0s are a bit wider than the 4.0s, with a bit better center intensity. Oof those Spec-Ds really don't look good.Comment
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If mounting from an OE reflector structure, this method uses 3 or 4 long bolts paired with 1 nut & 2 washers on the reflector side, 2 nut & 1 washer on the projector flange side, and a long spring. This makes the bolt pull on the projector while the spring pushes it on each of the 3 to 4 mounting points. Adjust the length of 2 of the 3 bolts to get the right yaw and pitch orientation. Note that the roll orientation is already committed once you decide where to drill holes on the OE reflector for the mounting holes that line up with holes in your projector's flange.Originally posted by Davidpeek05 View Post
That is extending the back of the housing using pvc pipe plus pvc cap or a flexible capOriginally posted by Davidpeek05 View Post
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Yeah the Spec-d’s are not the best but they get the job done for now. I just ordered my D2S 5.0’s and something I didn’t realize was the D2S 5.0’s are D2S bulb type. I know it was in the literal name “D2S” but I wasn’t thinking. So I had an “Oh crap” moment when I realized I need en entirely new hid system. So I went with the TRS 50W 5800k Morimoto kit. I’m picking up a pair of used reflector housing headlights tomorrow to retrofit. Now I’m just waiting for my TRS order. Hopefully it’s one heck of a difference for all this work. But one thing is how do you know if the projector is aligned properly rotational. I feel the nut and bolt method is a really difficult one for a new retrofitter but I know it’s a much better option than pvc and jb weld. Also I got the foreground limiters for the 5.0’s and I wanted to see if I should use them or not. I LOVE a flat foreground on projectors and even though TRS Customer Support said it would be plenty flat for me I got them anyway just in case.Originally posted by satrya View PostLast edited by Davidpeek05; April 15th, 2019, 11:19 PM.Comment
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You put the headlights on the car before putting the lens back on and make sure the rotation is correct. If they're going in H4 reflectors, they come with a piece that aligns them properly.Comment
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Originally posted by Davidpeek05 View PostTo add; I believe there are some manufacturers that clock halogen bulbs (like H4) differently, so this makes the tabbed washer that comes with Mini D2S sometimes completely off.Originally posted by Haloruler64 View Post
In my head, the foreground limiter is not simply to make the foreground edge flat, but to dramatically reduce the foreground. So, if the add on foreground limiter doesn't block additional foreground, you may not see a difference. It would be useful if you could find a power source indoors to test the foreground limiter's effect.Originally posted by Davidpeek05 View Post
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My kit is coming in tomorrow. I think I’ve done all the research I can about what to do and it’s pretty straight forward if everything goes smoothly. The only think I’m nervous about is the left to right length. On the dodge chargers there is no left to right adjustment so I have to not only get the rotation perfect but also the horizontal alignment perfect. The up and down is adjustable but that’s absolutely it.Comment
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If you mount on the threaded shaft (the way Mini projectors are designed) and the OE reflector is properly prepped (e.g. remove any nubs around the OE bulb opening to ensure flush mounting), then yaw (i.e. what you call left right) should not be an issue.Comment
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Even the Mini h1 7.0 is too large for the headlight housing on the chargers and I got the D2S 5.0. So mounting it on with the thread shaft isn’t an optionOriginally posted by satrya View PostComment
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With the 3 long bolt method, you choose 3 of the 4 holes in the mounting flange (upper right, upper left, lower right, lower left) to use. Of these 3, 1 is fixed, and the other 2 have the springs to balance out your yaw and pitch adjustment (but not roll).
For example, let's say that out of the 4 mounting holes, you pick upper right (UR), upper left (UL), and lower right (LR) for the mounting holes, and choose UL as the fixed one. Then, shortening UR will adjust the yaw alignment to the right, and lengthening UR yaws to the left. Shortening LR adjusts the pitch downwards, and so on.Comment
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