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Old fogey Nichia DRL build

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  • Old fogey Nichia DRL build

    Car is about 22 years old. Never had DRLs. Thought I'd give this DRL thingy a try.
    Had a 3/8" gap between the headlight and bumper. Seemed like a nice place to fill the gap.
    DRL01.jpg

    Bought some aluminum channel from Lowe's Hardware, chopped it up, trimmed the PCB to fit within channels.
    With only two rows of holes on the PCB, it was a tight fit.
    DRL03.jpg

    Soldered up forty-five Nichia NSDW570GS-K1 white LEDs to the pcb and lit them up...
    Smoke filled the air as 7 of them burnt.
    DRL00.jpg

    The soldering part was going to be harder than I thought.
    DRL04.jpg

    Tried a different method, drilling 45 holes in the alumi-channel and popping those babies through the hole.
    DRL05.jpg

    Sealed that back with some heated cum.
    DRL06.jpg

    Done!
    DRL07.jpg

    Mocked it up on the car.
    DRL08.jpg

    That's it for now.
    Last edited by KurumaOtaku; October 18th, 2014, 05:51 PM.

  • #2
    That's a lot of heated cum.

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    • #3
      Lol.... Heated cum.

      Show them lit up!

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      • #4
        You know that gap isn't supposed to be there, right? lol.

        Did that LED split/burst open??!? Wow, why did that happen? Bad soldering?

        It ended up looking good though, with the LEDs going through the metal instead, and makes it a lot easier to seal the back.

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        • #5
          Along the lines of what gold said, how about burying the metal bar further inwards, and then add a thin sheet of acrylic, cut to follow the profile of the bottom of the housing. That way it will be thinner.
          Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

          3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

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          • #6
            I had thought about various configurations but the legs of these LEDs are longer than superflux LEDs so I had to compensate for the lack of space. I initially soldered the resistor, (-) wires and (+) wires all in the back of the pcb which resulted in the burned LEDs. There simply wasn't enough space. So on the second attempt, I soldered the resistor and (-) wires in between the legs of the LED and pcb, the (+) wires in the back of the pcb. It was crazy difficult and time consuming. (3rd blurry pic)
            DRL10.jpg

            DRL09.jpg

            DRL11.jpg

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            • #7
              I wonder if the first configuration cause shorts because the solder could touch the aluminum housing.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by D0M1NIX View Post
                Lol.... Heated cum. Show them lit up!
                Once I install them, I'll be sure to post here.

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                • #9
                  The shorts were the solder being too close to each other. Visually, it looked OK but apparently wasn't. On the second attempt, I made sure nothing touched by dremeling in between the soldered space.

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                  • #10
                    nice!
                    The time you enjoy wasting, is not wasted time

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