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  • LED Sequential turn signal problem.

    Hi guys, I'm looking to see if someone has any idea on how to fix this problem I'm having.
    Installed some retrofit on a customers truck the other day (2013 Ford F150 Raptor).
    Before I installed on his truck I installed on mine to make sure everything was working correct.
    I noticed that the sequential turn signals were hyper flashing so I installed a load resister.
    Here is a picture of the LED sequential harness showing the load resistor location.





    Here is a video of them working on my 2010 Ford F150 Raptor
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8SlveLtZ4jw

    Installing them on my customers truck we noticed that they were not working correctly, the first 3 leds would come on bright but the last 2 were very dim.
    So I cut out the load resistor and strangely it started to work.
    After leaving he noticed they started to act funny again and here is a video of what they are doing now.



    It's almost like they are boarder line hyper flash but then decides not to.
    Anyone with ideas? lol

  • #2
    if i remember right you've got a '10 or '11 raptor right? just thinking something could have changed with the main computer--logic says it shouldn't, but oem's do what they'd like..

    what size/wattage load resistor are you using?
    The time you enjoy wasting, is not wasted time

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    • #3
      May be the load is in marginal case? You said it works fine on your truck, but did you have LED on front only? How about your customer? LED only on front, or both front and rear? Different case need different load resister.
      Look at my HID / Lighting works at Stupidpig HID | Facebook

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      • #4
        Originally posted by soundman98 View Post
        if i remember right you've got a '10 or '11 raptor right? just thinking something could have changed with the main computer--logic says it shouldn't, but oem's do what they'd like..

        what size/wattage load resistor are you using?

        Yes I have the 2010 model. When I installed these or "his lights" to test on my truck(2010) it hyper flashed so I added a load resistor I had at home 6 Ohm 25 watt load resistor.
        I've since sold the same set up to a 2011 model Raptor and I installed the new 6 Ohm 50 watt load resistors and he's had no problems.
        When I finally installed these (the ones I tested on my truck) on his truck it immediately/ barely would lite up the lights full but wasn't flashing fast. It was like it wasn't getting enough power it seemed.
        So I cut them out and it worked fine until he almost got home and this started. Yes it seems boarder line of hyper flash. The computer seems to sense it once in a while.

        Originally posted by StupidPig View Post
        May be the load is in marginal case? You said it works fine on your truck, but did you have LED on front only? How about your customer? LED only on front, or both front and rear? Different case need different load resister.
        We both have the same lights, his truck is brand new maybe a week old. The only LEDs are in the sequential turn signals and in both of our side mirrors and the rest of our lights are standard bulbs.

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        • #5
          then i think it's safe to say something changed on fords end-- software update or something to the main computer, that makes it more sensitive to it.

          if it barely worked with a 6ohm 25w resistor, then stepping up to at least an 8ohm, or even a 10ohm resistor should do the trick:

          8ohm:
          http://www.ebay.com/itm/LED-Turn-Sig...3366ee&vxp=mtr

          10ohm:
          http://www.ebay.com/itm/25W-10ohm-Lo...item460e118a9e
          The time you enjoy wasting, is not wasted time

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          • #6
            you need a larger load resistor.

            I have a set of LED tail lights and they were working fine for a while. Then.. once in a while it started to hyper flash.. but not all the time. it would, then wouldn't. then would. very strange and annoying. IT was only one side..

            So I pulled both tail lights. looked at the load resistor packs.
            One of them on the left side (side acting up) looked like the seal is cracked open. So i grabbed one from the right side and plugged into the left. the problem stopped. pulled the originial one back in and the problem was there again.

            So i took the tails out and put the stock ones back in while I ran some tests.

            I found out the difference between the 2 is.
            cracked added 1.4a of draw on the circuit.
            non cracked added 1.69a of draw on the circuit.

            So it was safe to say the resistance of the packs is decreasing due to possible internal short.

            I haven't tested the front bulbs yet.
            But my recommendation is to load test the stock bulb. how much current draw does it pull. then do some math and see if the 25w is enough. You probably will require a 50w 6ohm load.
            2012 Ford Fusion - halogen awaiting retrofit

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            • #7
              in resistors, wattage is only the rating of what it can physically take for sustained amounts of time, that rating doesn't control it's actual wattage.
              The time you enjoy wasting, is not wasted time

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              • #8
                I think I may need to go down in Resistance. 6 ohms is too much cause the lights would barely come on.
                I wired up 2 6 ohm 50 watt load resistors in parallel and am having the customer try these. In parallel they both divide themselves so the resistance would only be 3 ohms @ 50 watts.
                The reason why I say this is cause it works fine for a bit but then kicks on for a bit so it is boarder line of hyper flash. I'm hoping a littl more resistance added to the lines should hopefully
                control it as apposed to 1 6 ohm by itself drawing all that power.
                Just a guess I guess.
                Let's see what the customer finds out when he installs it. It is plug and play very easy for him to hook up.

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                • #9
                  That's like 50 watts to ground! I hope you don't damage anything.

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                  • #10
                    Awww, come on Ironman, it's so simple. Maybe you need a refresher course.
                    It's all ball bearings nowadays. Now you prepare that Fetzer valve with some 3-in-1 oil and some gauze pads. And I'm gonna need 'bout ten quarts of anti-freeze, preferably Prestone. No, no make that Quaker State.

                    LS460 | Osram CBI | Morimoto 3fiveSS

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                    • #11
                      ^ that'll never work without a dranophor
                      The time you enjoy wasting, is not wasted time

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by VegasF6 View Post
                        That's like 50 watts to ground! I hope you don't damage anything.
                        What do you mean?
                        Aren't these providing 3 ohms of resistance but they're capable of withstanding 50 watts of power each. Helps maintain it cooler.
                        This is my understanding but if I'm wrong please let me know.
                        Thanks.

                        Originally posted by SnakeDoctor View Post
                        Awww, come on Ironman, it's so simple. Maybe you need a refresher course.
                        It's all ball bearings nowadays. Now you prepare that Fetzer valve with some 3-in-1 oil and some gauze pads. And I'm gonna need 'bout ten quarts of anti-freeze, preferably Prestone. No, no make that Quaker State.
                        Originally posted by soundman98 View Post
                        ^ that'll never work without a dranophor
                        Hey, just checked the anti-freeze in my headlights.
                        It's all good.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by IRONMAN@FRF View Post
                          What do you mean?
                          Aren't these providing 3 ohms of resistance but they're capable of withstanding 50 watts of power each. Helps maintain it cooler.
                          This is my understanding but if I'm wrong please let me know.
                          Thanks.
                          he's saying they're consuming 50 watts of power.

                          we know the volts and resistance of the resistors-- 3 ohms, and they run at 12v(when the truck is off). using the handy little chart in vegas' sig-- E-squared x R= watts. and that equals 48 watts of power, or in terms of amp draw, 4A(which i believe the stock bulbs should draw about 3A..)--math done by a handy-dandy phone app...

                          but technically, the turn signal is only going to be used when the truck is running, so let's recalculate this at running voltage, which should be 14.4v.
                          that means there's 69w coursing through the resistors, or 4.8A of power...

                          so yeah, that harness is going to get pretty warm after a little while..
                          The time you enjoy wasting, is not wasted time

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                          • #14
                            It isn't the resistor I am worried about.
                            I would guess the stock incandescent turn signal bulb is 21 watts, or at most 27 watts. If you supply the # for it I can confirm this one way or the other.
                            Your 3 ohms of resistance at 13.2V will draw 58 watts. If the voltage is even higher, then the power draw will be even higher than that.
                            The wiring harness is a concern yes, but even more so I am concerned about anything upstream that isn't designed to handle that sort of load. If it is simply a removable and replaceable flasher relay then worst case scenario you may just damage that. But if the turn signal function is instead controlled by the BCM (or whatever Ford calls it) then you could potentially have a pretty expensive repair bill!

                            Of course, the turn signal function is most certainly fused, and hopefully if there is any negative effect the fuse will blow before any other damage is done.
                            What I would do personally is as I said, find a resistor that will drop the same wattage as the bulb. Now you may indeed need one for each side of the vehicle, but that's not the same as having two 6 ohm resistors parallel on the same side. But I would start with one side and go from there if it works.

                            Or, nothing will be harmed at all and I warned you for nothing. But better to be forewarned.

                            *edit*
                            I checked the sylvania bulb chart I normally consult. It only went to 2012, but specifies a 3157A LL at 28 watts.
                            https://www.sylvania.com/en-us/appli...rtnumber=3157A
                            Last edited by VegasF6; April 23rd, 2013, 07:43 PM.

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                            • #15
                              So I got these sequential led headlight strips and after wiring them up the blinker only works when the lights are off. If I have the drl or the headlights on it chases once and turns off but my normal blinker continue to flash. Any one have this issue before

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