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Analog Sequential LED Turn signal parts list and diagram

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  • Where's my cookie?

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    • Sir....you dont get a cookie. You get a cake! But I ate it lol.

      Darn.....I forgot about the voltage input. I never seen anyone who documented using more than 1 decade counter. Maybe because they go digital and use pwm.

      Im just trying to find more compact ways of making my board without going pcb.
      My retrofits
      http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?44256-92-honda-accord-morimoto-h1

      http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...nji-Headlights
      http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...ector-retrofit.
      http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...-turn-retrovan

      http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...ll-LED-project
      http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...-quad-retrofit

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      • Big thanks to this thread, Wouldnt have been able to make mine without everyones help in here.

        I'm running into a small issue tho, My boards worked perfect with all the parts from futurelec, but after it literally taking 6 months to receive my first order from them i tried sourcing the parts through digikey. After building a board with the digikey parts, it all more or less works as intended, but the scr's wont latch on ( futurelec scr - http://www.futurlec.com/Diodes/2N5064.shtml Digikey scr - http://www.digikey.ca/product-search...ader=search_go ) My guess is there isnt enough current to latch them?

        I got a different 2.2uf cap from digikey aswell, its much smaller then the futurelec one ( http://www.futurlec.com/Capacitors/C0022U50E.shtml ) ( digikey - http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail...4CT-ND/3831201 ) with no datasheet on futurelecs site for the cap it was purely a guess. I noticed the "ripple current" rating on the digikey one i bought is 18mA, they have others that are around 55mA ( http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail...9-1-ND/3129706 ) any idea if that would solve my issue?

        Thanks in advance
        Last edited by Wheeler88; September 9th, 2014, 07:03 PM.

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        • Originally posted by Wheeler88 View Post
          Big thanks to this thread, Wouldnt have been able to make mine without everyones help in here.

          I'm running into a small issue tho, My boards worked perfect with all the parts from futurelec, but after it literally taking 6 months to receive my first order from them i tried sourcing the parts through digikey. After building a board with the digikey parts, it all more or less works as intended, but the scr's wont latch on ( futurelec scr - http://www.futurlec.com/Diodes/2N5064.shtml Digikey scr - http://www.digikey.ca/product-search...ader=search_go ) My guess is there isnt enough current to latch them?

          I got a different 2.2uf cap from digikey aswell, its much smaller then the futurelec one ( http://www.futurlec.com/Capacitors/C0022U50E.shtml ) ( digikey - http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail...4CT-ND/3831201 ) with no datasheet on futurelecs site for the cap it was purely a guess. I noticed the "ripple current" rating on the digikey one i bought is 18mA, they have others that are around 55mA ( http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail...9-1-ND/3129706 ) any idea if that would solve my issue?

          Thanks in advance
          When trying out the circuit on a breadboard with single LED's on each channel , I had the same issue of the SCR's not latching. Had to use diodes. In the final application they worked fine without diodes with LED's drawing around 150 mA.

          Comment


          • Originally posted by ZBlue View Post
            When trying out the circuit on a breadboard with single LED's on each channel , I had the same issue of the SCR's not latching. Had to use diodes. In the final application they worked fine without diodes with LED's drawing around 150 mA.
            bah, i hope i dont have to add diodes. My led's are drawing just under 90mA off each scr, i tried switching my digikey scr's to the ones i got from futurelec and they all latch fine again. also tried going down from a 39 to a 33ohm resistor for my leds and the digikey scrs still wont latch. Going to order those other caps, and try a different brand of scr from them and hope its something easy like that. Thanks again.

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            • Originally posted by Defyant View Post
              Thread bump adding this to the thread.
              I revised my layout to fix a few glaring mistakes...... a couple of patch links fixed the first prototypes i made. Also uploading pictures for those who want to use this layout. Ive built 6 of these now and all have worked faultless using the list of parts posted in this thread. Again Credit to all that worked on posted in this original thread and made it possible for me to build these.



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              hello... what is list of parts?

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              • Bringing this back a bit.

                So I built a very similar circuit.

                555 & 4017 with SCR's latching power. I had to use a diode on the SCR trigger input to keep them latched. I assume the negative wave form of the 555 was untriggering it some how as without the diode, they just cycled like the scr wasn't there to latch.

                The circuit worked flawlessly on the test bench and manually triggering the power signal

                Once installed in the car with a laod resistor to prevent Hyper Blink, It seems like the circuit is losing power after a few cycles. You can see it at the end of the video linked below. They start to not fully illuminate until they don't at all. I'm guessing the load resistor and stock flash rate is not giving the board enough power to fully complete the illumination after a few cycles.

                The load resistor is mandatory because the stock car flasher circuit can't be bypassed(built into turn signal/hazard cluster).
                Do you think adding in a large cap(maybe 100uf?) could act as a reservoir to keep the led's illuminated during the on cycle but not bridge the off cycle and keep the SCR's latched?

                Video
                http://instagram.com/p/vhvxpolJw5/

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                • See whether you can replace the load resistor with the actual bulb. This should tell you whether the car detected something wrong or not, with the signal after a few cycle, and changed back to hyperflash.
                  Look at my HID / Lighting works at Stupidpig HID | Facebook

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                  • I do not know why but I tried etching a board and the first two boards worked except for the fourth and sixth string for some reason on one of them and on the the first and last string worked on the second board. The third board I tried using the same components and it didn't work, the 555 timer heats up very fast and idk why I have no shorted connections I checked each trace of the board very carefully. what do you guys think my problem could be? I'll upload pictures to give a better idea
                    My current build thread
                    7th gen Accord quad retro

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                    • Hi I would like to use the module in my Audi. But the turn signal is over two back light (inner and outer). Because of that I need a delay for the outer turn signal from about 100 ms. Is that possible with a simple timer? And the output signal of my car is a 12v pwm signal. Does the module work with that or should I smooth the signal with a capacitor?

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