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Boost mono Koito/Ichikoh LED projectors

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  • Boost mono Koito/Ichikoh LED projectors

    Hello, i found on ali led chip as is biled koito 3A version.

    He have 6 sections, spec only electrical input - 18V 1,5A.

    Idea came replace original chip in mono ichikoh led projectos, i have RHD version of projector - with 3" glass lens and big size base/radiator. Reflector small size plastic, shield mod from RHD to LHD.



    original led chip


    electricity consumption


    output shot


    chips from ali


    replaced


    electricity consumption ali chip


    lot of pics



















































    Not usual LED retrofits:
    Swift with DRL,
    Nissan Note with corner light,
    Mazda CX-7,
    Mercedes W211 E-Class

  • #2
    When you boost light source, you must consider how much headroom original heatsink can handle.
    Passive heatsink really don't have much room to take extra power especially over 10W of additional power is huge.
    beside, optically, longer or larger chip area conflict with lumen density within conformed beam pattern.

    More concerning aspect of heat issue,
    If original configuration measured 17.2W power consumption, heatpower is roughly around 11W or so
    but at 28W power consumption, then heatpower is 20W range.

    Before finalize modification, you should run careful thermal observation under similar airflow limitation condition ( best to test in headlamp housing)

    30min and 90min mark first, then push to 4h continuous operation mark to check temperature right at the LED ceramic base.
    Absolute max junction temp typically rated 150C, Ceramic base should not exceed 120C under any circumstances. ( rough assumption of Junction to Solder resistance 1K/W)

    But output will drop as much as 30% near junction temperature max.

    Nichia chip can maintain 93% lumen at 100C

    If original chip is producing 1,600lm heatsink handled junction temp max to 100C under 30C ambient temp for example,
    Osram chip at same heatsink can reach as much as 120C 80% of rated lumen, 2,000lm will equal to Nichia's 1,600lm after temperature saturated.

    Additional power consumption with overheat risk, yet, not much steady state final gain is not what you want to look for.

    I have not observed heatsink shape or exact data sheet, so above are just general theory.

    First, try 4h continuous running observation is my strong suggestion.

    Comment


    • #3
      this mod cannot be done without active cooling, i thought it was obvious.

      before install in headlights i'm use 40mm fan 4500 rpm with dual ball bearning and place on bottom heatsink
      and cut septum in heatsink for normal air flow

      Not usual LED retrofits:
      Swift with DRL,
      Nissan Note with corner light,
      Mazda CX-7,
      Mercedes W211 E-Class

      Comment


      • #4
        4500rpm 40mm fan should be very much helpful to handle additional heat power.

        Do you have pictures of ortho view of heatsink with rough dimensions ?

        I am curious how Ichiko passive heatsink is designed.

        Comment


        • #5
















          seller rotate shield to LHD
          Not usual LED retrofits:
          Swift with DRL,
          Nissan Note with corner light,
          Mazda CX-7,
          Mercedes W211 E-Class

          Comment


          • #6
            I made quick rough mock up model based on visible part of pictures and simulated,
            looks like original configuration contain LED junction temp under 104C ( ambient temp 60C) passively. ( in ideal open air situation)

            This is very effective heatsink design.


            Then, if you bump up power to 28W range, then expected junction temp is calculated to be around 128C ( all simulated under 60C amb temp)


            By placing 40mm 7 blade (10mm thick) fan at 4,000rpm, then junction temp will go down to 93C
            When you cut slot as your drawing indicate, then it adds extra 1.5C of cooling capacity, 91.5C expected.

            If bottom of heatsink has all the way continued fin from front divider area, then it is more effective to place fan bit more front end.
            Without cutting slots, it achieves around 91.7C.

            It seems to be rather small difference where to put fan or cut slot or not, so, as long as there is fan, it should show confident cooling upgrade result.

            Comment


            • #7
              Would it help to make the heatsink bigger? Maybe with some copper or aluminum mesh thread that is used on some plug and play bulbs.

              Very interesting to see the attempt to boost a led projector.
              Subaru Outback retrofit:
              http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...aru-Outback-H6
              License plate lights with dual brightness:
              https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/for...hen-backing-up

              Comment


              • #8
                .
                ..
                Last edited by Crossgolf; March 5th, 2020, 09:51 PM. Reason: Deleted
                Subaru Outback retrofit:
                http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...aru-Outback-H6
                License plate lights with dual brightness:
                https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/for...hen-backing-up

                Comment


                • #9
                  Really don't have much room to take extra power especially over 10W of additional power is huge.
                  beside, optically, longer or larger chip area conflict with lumen density within conformed beam pattern.auto clikcer
                  Last edited by MajdadS; April 16th, 2020, 01:31 PM.

                  Comment

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