Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Custom Reverse light

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Custom Reverse light

    So I have an outlander sport, bought a rear fog light for a RVR/ASX, going to make my first attempt at high power leds.

    Plan is to remove the red lens, place a piece of lexan in place of it, I was going to cut out as much as I can from the back without affect mounting (1 5/8" H x 3.5 " W) I've never worked with high power leds before but I kind of have a decent idea on the basics. I was thinking of using XP-G2 3-up boards https://www.ledsupply.com/leds/cree-...5-high-density was thinking of using a total of 3, I'm unsure of what the best combination of optics would be for the reverse setup. (optics from here: https://www.ledsupply.com/cree-xpg2-led-optics)

    Also I understand with high power leds I wouldn't use resistors but use a driver, I was thinking 1000 mA. From what I have read I think the XP-G2 has a maximum of 1500mA (could be wrong)

    I was going to wire 1 driver per led and connect them all to the reverse light trigger.

    And for the heatsink I was going to get a finned piece of aluminum and place all three on it or possibly use 3 of these: https://www.ledsupply.com/led-heatsi...atsink-housing

    I might be getting a little over my head with all this but I really want to do something custom and learn this. I can't seem to find much on using high power leds

  • #2
    Funny, I bought a triple 3 Cree XPG-2 star and a dynamic housing from LEDSupply a while ago and finally assembled it today. I'm using a 1400ma BuckBlock driver, already had it before purchasing the other components. They assured me resistors were not needed so I didn't use any. Assembly is pretty straightforward,I used one of these little plastic clamps https://www.harborfreight.com/micro-...-pc-69375.html to hold the wire to the board while I soldered it.

    With just the housing, no additional heatsinks, it gets too hot to hold after a minute. For optics I'm trying a narrow spot, frosted wide spot, and a elliptical spot. I'll probably end up using the elliptical spot; it's basically a wide flood pattern, but I'll "clock" the housing so the beam will be tall but narrow, illumination to the sides are fine with the existing reverse lights but I want to light up the areas straight behind in the middle of my truck, it'll be mounted in the tow hitch.
    Originally posted by HK45
    I don't even look to see what Eddie writes anymore. I'm too busy staring at his avatar.

    Comment


    • #3
      sounds like you're on the right track. i've always been happy with led supply for drivers and leds. never tried their heatsink material though. i usually use a heatsink off ebay, or out of the scrap bin off a computer processor or something.

      what is rvr/asx?

      keep in mind the temperature at which the housing gets pliable(there should be a marking on the housing indicating the type of plastic that it is). you'll want to set up the heatsink with enough area to make sure that the housing doesn't melt-- be sure to test it on the bench before installing!

      as far as optics, if you look through my 2nd reverse light build(will need a browser plugin to see the pictures which are hosted through photobucket), i have a photoshoot of all the optics available for the xp-g 3-up. i settled on the eliptical style for wide coverage that also reaches as far as possible.
      The time you enjoy wasting, is not wasted time

      Comment


      • #4
        Man completely forgot the images of the light..




        Only markings I can find are >PMMA< >ABS<

        I was thinking of using CPU heatsink as where I work they get tossed all the time and I have some sitting in my basement also. Going based off what Eddie is saying those housing may get a bit too hot for my liking, at a maximum I'm guessing I won't be reversing more than 5 minutes, might toss in a switch just in case I bring to dealership and they have to touch the vehicle.

        Is driving the LED's at 1000mA a bit excessive when having three? Just noticed at 1000mA it's about 1k lm each star (unless I'm reading this wrong) I want a bunch of light but I also don't want to wash out the reverse camera, which is going to be extremely difficult as I think of it as this light is mounted a foot or so below the reverse camera. hmmmm

        Also got the idea of using the xp-g2 because of your reverse light thread soundman, didn't know of the different shops in that thread though I'll go check, really liking the elliptical spot, if I go with 3 maybe two elliptical spots on the outers and a narrow spot in middle.

        Comment


        • #5
          Hey soundman what color white xp-g's were you using in that reverse light build?
          Originally posted by HK45
          I don't even look to see what Eddie writes anymore. I'm too busy staring at his avatar.

          Comment


          • #6
            You really won't need any sort of heatsink minus the LED housing. The reverse light will be on for a few seconds at most. Definitely not going to get excessively warm. I've done similar reverse lights but I'm using Luxeon Rebels.
            2013 Grand Caravan. LS460s + RX350s.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by iPengu View Post
              Man completely forgot the images of the light..


              Only markings I can find are >PMMA< >ABS<
              that sounds like a typical housing-- pmma should be the outer lens-- it's just a transparent acrylic
              https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poly(methyl_methacrylate)

              abs is a very standard rear-assembly plastic. the info i found said that it becomes pliable around 150 degrees i believe, so my goal with my build had been to maintain under 100 degrees to avoid any meltages.

              Originally posted by iPengu View Post
              I was thinking of using CPU heatsink as where I work they get tossed all the time and I have some sitting in my basement also. Going based off what Eddie is saying those housing may get a bit too hot for my liking, at a maximum I'm guessing I won't be reversing more than 5 minutes, might toss in a switch just in case I bring to dealership and they have to touch the vehicle.
              he said he's using a dynamic housing from them-- i don't believe led supply ever offered anything serious for heatsinking. mostly just smooth round stuff, or massive panels for grow lights.

              my first build used cpu heatsinks, and i was happy with the performance, but not the weight. the one's i used were the old P4 heatsinks with a copper center slug. massively heavy, but it was partly intended to be a sort of 'thermal capacitor', where i'd have them on for a time, and then they would have at least 5 hours to cool down-- in the first few posts, you can also see that i over-estimated my reverse time. so the second version used a lot smaller heatsinks because i really didn't need all that heft. worked great for the xm-l's that i used at the time, didn't work so great when the neighbor backed into the back of the car-- the added heft of the full heatsinks definitely contributed it the housing breaking the way it did.

              i also ran those emitters raw, just pointing back. so the heft, breakage, and lack of optics for distance is what encouraged me to take another swing at it with the 2nd version.

              Originally posted by iPengu View Post
              Is driving the LED's at 1000mA a bit excessive when having three? Just noticed at 1000mA it's about 1k lm each star (unless I'm reading this wrong) I want a bunch of light but I also don't want to wash out the reverse camera, which is going to be extremely difficult as I think of it as this light is mounted a foot or so below the reverse camera. hmmmm
              i personally don't feel it's worthwhile to run them at anything under 1,000mA. keep in mind that the lux drive drivers all have onboard dimming capabilities, so if you were to decide that it's too much, you can always alter the brightness later on. also keep in mind that while the chip might be making 1k lm of light, there is going to be losses going through optics, lenses, and the overall distribution of where that light goes also affects how 'bright' it seems. think of an led with a narrow optic as putting a firecracker in your cupped hand, and a no-optic led as throwing that same firecracker into the middle of a football field--barely anyone would notice it going off that wasn't standing right next to it. that was what i ran into with my first build trying to use leds without any optics-- i had great coverage within the first 5' of the rear bumper( xm-l's, so 1k lm each, 4 total), but almost nothing beyond that, and i wanted to focus all that light a little beyond just the rear of the car.

              washing out the reverse camera shouldn't be too much of an issue because the image should be of directly behind the car, which would be fully illuminated. for that case, you might even want to consider running at least 1 board with no optics to allow for better immediate light coverage behind the vehicle.

              Originally posted by iPengu View Post
              Also got the idea of using the xp-g2 because of your reverse light thread soundman, didn't know of the different shops in that thread though I'll go check, really liking the elliptical spot, if I go with 3 maybe two elliptical spots on the outers and a narrow spot in middle.
              personally i feel the narrow is too narrow, even if it's just applied to a single emitter. great for a flashlight, but too narrow to pilot a car through the spot.

              Originally posted by Eddie View Post
              Hey soundman what color white xp-g's were you using in that reverse light build?
              i believe they were 4000k
              The time you enjoy wasting, is not wasted time

              Comment


              • #8
                So heres a 1000mA driver with a dimmer PART #: 0A009-D-V-1000 from ledsupply that should work right?

                Think I'll order 1 led, 1 optic and driver in next week or so and start experimenting, I just cut the lens off tonight and started making the clear one, first time using this harbor freight "dremel" gonna take some learning to get my cuts smoother.

                Thanks for the help everyone

                Comment


                • #9
                  You can save a few bucks ordering a non-dimming BuckPuck, doubt you'd want to dim the reverse lights anyway...I bought my drivers used and they just happen to be dimmable
                  Originally posted by HK45
                  I don't even look to see what Eddie writes anymore. I'm too busy staring at his avatar.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by lowfat View Post
                    You really won't need any sort of heatsink minus the LED housing. The reverse light will be on for a few seconds at most. Definitely not going to get excessively warm. I've done similar reverse lights but I'm using Luxeon Rebels.
                    i wouldn't recommend running any high power led without some sort of heatsink. even an aluminum bar is better than just the mcpcb. led supply used to include this paper with all their orders. it's at least a good baseline for where to start.



                    Originally posted by iPengu View Post
                    So heres a 1000mA driver with a dimmer PART #: 0A009-D-V-1000 from ledsupply that should work right? Think I'll order 1 led, 1 optic and driver in next week or so and start experimenting, I just cut the lens off tonight and started making the clear one, first time using this harbor freight "dremel" gonna take some learning to get my cuts smoother. Thanks for the help everyone
                    yes, that one would work, also 03023-D-E-1000 would work as well and is a smaller package.
                    The time you enjoy wasting, is not wasted time

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X