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What am I doing wrong?

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  • What am I doing wrong?

    How is everybody? I am stuck in a situation and can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. I have a 2008 Acura TSX with DRL (Canadian Model) and I want to swap out my DRL halogen bulbs for the Profile Peak H1 LED. I have the Morimoto H1 Relay Harness along with the Capacitor Link and even the standalone Canbus. I have tried every connection combo possible and I can't get anything to work. With SOME combos I can only get one LED to light up while the other one stays off. If I enable the high beams they both light up. Shoooot, I even hooked up two Capacitor Links and still to no avail. I can't figure it out. Big time help is badly needed. What am I doing wrong and what should I do to correct the situation? Thanks in advance.
    And I'm soakin, face lookin blank
    Shoot this little kid up with horse tranq' and send him to the bank
    with a 'give me the funds' note, clip's missin from the gun
    If he gets slapped then **** it all I'll split it with my dunns I shit on crumbs, got a couple thousand sons
    that all shoulda been wiped off some jugs or cloggin lungs

  • #2
    DRL outputs a lower voltage to dim the halogen bulbs, likely below the voltage needed to light the LED's. You might try something like a boost circuit on the DRL output to generate enough voltage to close a relay to supply battery voltage to the bulbs, but then you have permanent high beam whenever DRL is on which is exactly what you'll have if the LED bulbs were working since they don't have dimming for DRL. The reason one my light is because the DRL circuit usually drops power across two bulbs in series vs bulbs in parallel as in high beam operation, meaning that one bulb gets power then the other one gets power so the first one on the circuit might get enough power to light leaving not enough for the second one. In high beam operation both get the full beans.

    It sucks your'e stuck with H1 bulbs.
    2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'
    1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4E 'mom-mobile'

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    • #3
      Thanks for the reply. But the LEDS I purchased claims it does in did can perform as DRL. And I have actually seen the single LED that lights up actually get dim to the DRL state. Here are the link's of the stuff I have hooked up. What else can I possibly do?

      https://www.theretrofitsource.com/wi...tandalone.html

      https://www.theretrofitsource.com/wi...-relay-h1.html

      https://www.theretrofitsource.com/le...ght-bulbs.html
      And I'm soakin, face lookin blank
      Shoot this little kid up with horse tranq' and send him to the bank
      with a 'give me the funds' note, clip's missin from the gun
      If he gets slapped then **** it all I'll split it with my dunns I shit on crumbs, got a couple thousand sons
      that all shoulda been wiped off some jugs or cloggin lungs

      Comment


      • #4
        Measure voltage at the bulbs, is it below 8V specified that the LED's need? Measure voltage with the bulbs installed, halogen and LED. The fact that the single LED is dimming is likely because you're below 8V and just bypassing the LED driver and getting the sweet spot where there's not enough power to activate the driver and just barely enough to light the LED's.

        Filament bulbs have a pretty nice curve that relates power to light, LED's have a weird narrow curve, they only light in a very slim range of power to produce light.
        2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'
        1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4E 'mom-mobile'

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        • #5
          TRS doesn't claim that they can do DRL duty with a PWM signal. They'll run full brightness, which is bad.

          2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder
          2017 Lexus CT200h F Sport

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Haloruler64 View Post
            TRS doesn't claim that they can do DRL duty with a PWM signal. They'll run full brightness, which is bad.
            Even with that said, "DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS: These bulbs are capable of running on anything over 8V, so if your vehicle uses a low voltage daytime running light, they can run at a lower intensity. If the vehicle uses a PWM (pulsing) type daytime running light (or low beam) then you will still need the optional anti-flicker adapter to avoid issues." and I added the anti flicker to no avail. Am I basically SOL with these LEDS?
            And I'm soakin, face lookin blank
            Shoot this little kid up with horse tranq' and send him to the bank
            with a 'give me the funds' note, clip's missin from the gun
            If he gets slapped then **** it all I'll split it with my dunns I shit on crumbs, got a couple thousand sons
            that all shoulda been wiped off some jugs or cloggin lungs

            Comment


            • #7
              My point wasn't that it shouldn't work. My point was that even if it did work, you shouldn't be running them.

              2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder
              2017 Lexus CT200h F Sport

              Comment

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