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Morimoto Motoho1der Mini H1 bulb holders

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  • Morimoto Motoho1der Mini H1 bulb holders

    Let's face it, the Mini H1 bulb holder (and this includes the 7.0) is garbage. That paper clip is downright aggravating to install and remove. The bulb can wiggle and rotate, messing up the output. The Mini H1 series has never had quality output out of the box, always requiring adjustments and shimming. This is a symptom of the rebased H1 HID bulb, but that bulb holder didn't help at all.



    I know many of us were excited for the new bulb holders, and many more were weary.



    First of all, they're made well. They're plastic, but they're stout. They're also well thought out. You don't have to squeeze all the wiring and the grommet through the main ring, it'll just slide over the bulb while the U shaped piece holds the bulb in. It's not going to be as easy to install on the car as a twist in 9006 bulb, but it's a lot better than the paperclip. Nonetheless, with two pieces it is a bit fiddly. Installation on the projector itself is as simple as removing three screws and reinstalling them with the new bulb holder in place.

    The bulb can still rotate a bit in this new holder before tightening it down, so you WILL have to find the proper positioning for the bulb before tightening it down once and for all. This is just the nature of the imprecise H1 bulb. But once the ring is tight, the bulb isn't going anywhere.

    These photos are exposure locked. The parts used are brand new, unmodified Morimoto Mini H1 7.0 projectors, brand new UPS 5700K H1 HID bulbs, and some Alpha HID ballasts on a lithium jump starter. No shimming was done at all.

    Stock bulb holder, bulb rotated to get as bad output as possible:



    Stock bulb holder, bulb rotated to get the best output possible:



    Motoho1der, bulb rotated all the way in one direction. I did NOT make sure it was the best it could be. I just threw it in, to see how it would be.



    And a GIF, for your viewing pleasure. The shots are unlabeled, but they're in the same order as my write up and go from dimmest to brightest.



    Obviously, the Motoho1ders made a significant difference. They're a big upgrade not only in ease of use but also in output out of the box. Is it a fix for all of the H1 problems? Absolutely not. Most H1 bulbs will still need some shimming for perfection. UPS bulbs are pretty great out of the box, but many others show obvious signs of issues. Morimoto bulbs are not immune to these issues. Don't expect it to be the magic fix for all of H1's problems, but it's a big step forward in the Mini H1 world.

    Some more testing will be done soon if you guys want. Let me know what you want to see.



    Last edited by Haloruler64; September 24, 2017, 04:12 AM.

    2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder
    2017 Lexus CT200h F Sport

  • #2
    Good stuff. When I did the H1 7.0 retrofit on my friend's MINI, it was the first experience I had with the mini H1 series. I took it all out of the box and thought "SURELY this isn't the bulb holder.." aaaaaand we know how that ended up. This would have been nice to have.

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    • #3
      Thanks for sharing.
      Jul 2012 ROTM (3-way quad headlight) ; Sep 2015 ROTM (custom muli-lens 7" fogs)

      3-way quad wiring; foreground limiter; squirrel finder;

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      • #4
        Nice!

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        • #5
          lol I see zero difference
          *CLICK BELOW ON WHAT YOU WANT TO SEE*

          2014 Nissan Sentra Quads w/ XB Fogs

          DSC_9349 by Sam Colt, on Flickr

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          • #6
            How can you watch that gif and not see a brightness difference? Lol

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            • #7
              The issue was never brightness. The issue has always been improper hotspot location and bowed cutoffs; none of which changed between a properly placed bulb in the old bulb holder and the new bulb holder.
              *CLICK BELOW ON WHAT YOU WANT TO SEE*

              2014 Nissan Sentra Quads w/ XB Fogs

              DSC_9349 by Sam Colt, on Flickr

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              • #8
                Oh okay. Now I see what you're saying lol.

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                • #9
                  The shots don't show it well unfortunately. We all know that moving the bulb a bit with the stock bulb holder changes the hotspot location drastically. When I was doing it in front of the camera, the change was obvious. In the photos, it's not visible. Very very strange. But I can attest that the output is pretty close to ideal with the new bulb holders, and intensity is surprisingly higher overall. Almost like the extra pressure positions the bulb properly in the projector.

                  Also the UPS bulbs never really had hotspot issues in my experience. Not like Morimoto bulbs (which I've never tried, so I can't say, but I've seen a lot of bad bulb alignment).

                  Plus, this bulb holder just makes it easier. No fussing, no alignment problems when bumping it. I installed the bulb, screwed down the bulb holder, and good output. That's not the case with the old one. Like I said before, this isn't going to fix the problems with the H1 HID bulb in general. But it's a big improvement in getting the bulb sitting right without a fuss.

                  2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder
                  2017 Lexus CT200h F Sport

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                  • #10
                    Product review without photos of the product, the product in use, or how to use the product? Jeeze....
                    2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'
                    1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4E 'mom-mobile'

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                    • #11
                      I'll get more

                      2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder
                      2017 Lexus CT200h F Sport

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                      • #12
                        I was looking at this on my lunch break and am still wondering why there's such a pencil-beam hotspot. Other 7.0 pictures I've seen (incl. under-exposed) didn't seem to have such a tall hotspot, unless my eyes were fooling me.

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                        • #13
                          Nah the tall hotspot is normal. It sucks. You just see it less on a wall at car height.

                          2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder
                          2017 Lexus CT200h F Sport

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                          • #14
                            Here is how the bulb holder looks:



                            Installation is simple. Remove the three screws from the original bulb holder and replace with new bulb holder. Screws are not provided, so don't strip the screws!



                            You slide the locking ring onto the bulb, insert the bulb, insert the U piece (there is only one way it will go in), then screw the retainer on.


                            2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder
                            2017 Lexus CT200h F Sport

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                            • #15
                              Looks good, wonder what kind of plastic it's made from and if it'll warp with heat over time or if it can withstand 45-50W use?
                              2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'
                              1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4E 'mom-mobile'

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