audi 80 quad demon eyes, headlight reconstruction complete worklog
so... after all i got done with my "retrofit". or almost, since i require some more troubleshooting. in this thread, i will show in, as much detail as i can, how i went from this:
to this :
although , i will do so, in many posts, cause it will be too big, and i am bored to write it at once
So... i don't think you call this just a retrofit, since, i had to pretty recreate the headlight, in order to achieve what i wanted...
my headlight, opened looks like that :
as you can see, it would be good for a bi-xenon projector in the middle, but not of any use for a quad retrofit that i wanted..
Last edited by Pantelhs Xirouc; July 13th, 2013 at 12:23 PM.
so, i decided to cut the whole headlight, and keep only the front (to keep the cars general line) and the back side (so i could keep the duster and the OEM plug).
i also, wanted to make the headlights line , a bit diferent from the original headlight, becouse i felld that no metter what, the old line could not be "sport" enough... so to make the outside line of every headlight, i first decided how i would like it to look like in the car :
and then , i used a metal wire, hot glued in the headlight, to make a base patern. then, i applied ABS plastic.
(Abs is in my opionion the most usfull think ever. you can buy from ebay in large quantities. then you cut it in small pieces, and put it in a jar with acetone. after some days, the abs will melt, and will have a liquid form , wich after you apply, and the accetone drys out, will once more become prety hard. if you use 100% accetone, you will have something that looks like plastic paint, and can be applied with a brush, but not with hands. if you use nail accetone, the effect will be a much harder plastic, that can be easily used by hands).
here i used abs with nail accetone technique, so that it could stick easier in the metal :
so, on to the housing. i dicided aproximitly the space i would need (and the space that the car could hold), and made a mold from polyurithane foam.i will then coevr it with fiberflass, cause its prety easy to work with, and its hard, and heat resistant.
i then taped everything with painters tape : (you have to do that, else the fiberglass rasin will melt the foam). after that, i also covered everything with plastic body filler (for water resistance).
in my case, i have cuted many parts of the headlight, to use them as doors to change burned lights (becouse they WILL burn...), to keep it waterproof, i glue the doors in place using urethane (The same think you use to seal the headlight )
bi-xenon projector: FX-R 3.0 3". i wanted my projectors to look white in the day, and glow red in the night. so, to make the white glow i striped open the FX-R witch once opened looks like that :
and i painted everything behind the lens, white with heat resistant paint.
which is a pretty sweet effect.
for the demon eye, i tried many different approaches. you cant just make a whole and add a led inside , cause the light output wont be enough , cause of the metals inside the projector. so i used a 3w red led. unfortunetly i dont have a photo of the led, but the concept is : i screwed the led in an aluminum plate (for heat sink), and glued the 5w resistor in that metal as well. i then drilled 2 wholes in the projector. one for the led to go in, and one for the heatsink to screw inside and hold the projector in place.
you cant have the led light up when the xenons are on, cause it will burn from the heat.. to bypass that, i used a p-chanel mosfet to control the demon eyes, but i will explain later , when i explain the "brain" of the headlights.
to mount and ajust the projector, i used the technique that uses 3 springs , and a bolt that screws inside the projector and L brackets. i dont have many photos, but anyway other people explain it pretty well.
in my case the projector gets adjusted from the outside side... i bealive this is not the best option, since when the bezzel is build, you dont have access to the projector anymore for re-adjustment... but in my case to be honest, i didint care much for the adjustment, cause the car is so old, that even the headlight can be screwed in the car in diferent ways and affect the cuttof... so there was no hope for a perfect cuttof anyway....
FAKE projector. the second projector is fake, and is there just for the looks. to build it i used this :
where i leave is a prety common thing. its used by farmers in large watering pipes, to screw em together. if you cut it in half, you have 2 projectors.
inside it it consist of those things :
which i dont really know what they are used for, but in my case, i see a perfect sit for the 2.5" lens. i also used some wire, to make the lens sit tighter.
after that, you screw the "White" part inside the "black" part, and the lens , sits rock solid (so you can even remove the whole thing from the back side of the headlight ) . at the backside of the white part, i cut and glued enother plastic sheet, wich was as well painted white for the day effect. i then cut a whole and used this led holder :
which holds in place a 5mm red led (this one does not have anything inside it to reflect the light, so the output of the two projectors, is the same ; ) )
after i had adjusted the main projector, i glued the fake one , trying to make them look the same way :
its pronounced pan-telIs Xi-rouk...
Originally Posted by Sean Lezner
Wow, this is AMAZING so far. Nice job!
It's pronounced Pantelakos o Mastoras! Ekanes mia kai kalh douleia!!! Bale mia fwto me ta fwta anoixta, ta xenons mwre
Learn something new everyday... I had no idea about the abs trick, nice work.
AKA Jimmy K
now. for the bezzel.
i wanted to make something that would good, and make the car look more suspicious or whatever. But for this to be done, i had to add some detail.. to make that, i first created a Mold out of plasticine (the one that children play with). this can be very easily saped to be given any level of detail you want.
tthen , you have to apply abs. You want to apply it with a brush, so that it keeps the detail of the plasticine, that's why you have to use the second method (100% acetone). also, you have to cover the whole thing with alumium foil, so that the abs want stick to plasticine (painters tape want work, as aceton will cut through it)
after you apply the abs, you let it dry for some time. have in mind, that at that thicknes, abs will be very thin, so its better to add 2 or 3 layers. otherwise, when you remove it(to remove the plasticine), it might brake. the problme with many layers is that the acetone from the 2nd layer will melt the first. so you want have 2 layers as much as 1.3 or something... MAYBE you could bypass this, by adding painters tape between the layers, so that only a part of acetone passes (enough to bond the layers)
after the abs is dryed out, i removed the bezzel, and removed the plasticine. then i glued the bezzel, in the housing, using some more ABS (thicker this time), and plastic body filler.
i have to admit, that the final resolt is very fragile, and far from even good. so the hard part begins here. you have to add milions of layers of puty, then sand, then puty , then sand....
i first used the palstic body filler , so that it bonds with abs a bit (not so much, but in large quantity its ok). and then i used the fine detail sanding puty , to make the details
after sanding it soft, i applied filler :
but agian, the resolt is far from perfect... maybe someone with more experience could take it further, but not me.. to bypass this, there is this magical product
which basically is large density filler, which you can apply with a small knife, and do as detail as neccecery, then i painted with acrylic mat black
gray_panther +1 i will show from this as well, be patient