Quick FX-R mounting/alignment question

[DreaminAccord]

Okay y'all, I have finally decided to upgrade from my Mini H1's to FX-R projectors - I just placed an order with TRS tonight for FX-R 3.0's, E46-R (Extended) Shrouds and Mori D2S 3FIVE 4300K bulbs.

Now, this is obviously going to be a little more involved mounting the FX-R's than the "plug-n-play" H1's were. I have already taken my H1's out, along with the reflector bowls, so the stock housing is all ready to go for when they deliver. I have a new set of halogen housing on the car now - so I'm in no hurry to get this retro done - I want it done right.


So, my main question is regarding the mounting and alignment of the FX-R projector. Obviously, I am going to park 25 ft away from my garage, mount the housing on the car w/o the front attached, power up my HIDs and try to get the aim / rotation as close to perfect as I can while I'm holding the projector (yes, they get hot). It was then suggested to use some sort of tool, while holding it perfectly aimed, through the mounting holes of the projector to mark / scribe the housing as to where I'm going to drill my holes. Any suggestions as to what I should use (what is sharp but thin enough to slide through each of the holes)? I will then insert 10-32 x 2 1/2" screws through the back of the headlight housing and into the mounting holes of the FX-R - 2x Top / 2x Bottom. I had also read that you should use a 1/4" locking washer in front of the nut to allow yourself the ability to adjust / fine tune your aim. So, if I read that correctly, the 4 mounting screws actually allows you to adjust horizontal / vertical / rotational aim just by using a screw driver and turning each of the screws?? Or is there more to it - like the JnC method is definitely needed to adjust rotation?

This is the only thing that makes me a little nervous about upgrading - the fact that it is more permanent, whereas with the Mini H1's you can easily remove headlight, give a twist here or there to adjust rotation, and then just use your horizontal adjustment screw for height. Everything else I feel comfortable doing, though. In fact, I'm quite excited to upgrade - I can't wait!

[TRSMatt]

just light up the original beam pattern, mark that on your garage wall very carefully, take the headlights off the car, cut their reflectors, remount, and then putty the FX-R's back in (while illuminated) so their beam pattern matches the references you left on the garage wall. (dont move the car in between!)

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pdf...r_Retrofit.pdf

Something like that

http://www.epoxygator.com/

[DreaminAccord]

Thanks Matt! Yea, I read about using the original beam pattern on the Subaru's FX-R retrofit guide. But just in case I don't get it perfect the first try, can the 4 mounting screws with locking washers/nuts be used to adjust aim or are they just solely for mounting?

Also, what do I need in order to illuminate the lights on a work bench indoors?

For example:

[Genes1s]

Also, what do I need in order to illuminate the lights on a work bench indoors?

Tap the high beam selenoids using aligator clip to your source.

[DreaminAccord]

Ok, so I have an extra battery, 9007 TRS wiring harness, and locking clamps (like he has in the pic). So all that I need extra are aligator clips? I then attach those to the battery, the other end connects to the high beam solenoid? Then just run the rest of the wiring harness as usual (ballasts, bulbs, etc) except what would plug into the OEM harness?

[Genes1s]

For running the ballasts, you can use your harness to protect it from any shortage. If you want to use the harness, connect the harness + and - to the source using alligator clips and connect the trigger wire to the - & + source also. To on/off the ballast, you connect/disconnect the trigger + wire to the source. Be carefull not to short it. I would not use the harness, just connect the ballast power wire to the source. MAKE sure you know polarity on the OEM ones or you'll fry it.

For high beam you don't need harness to run selenoids on 12V source. If you have spare battery, run the selenoid wire to the battery, using alligator clip or some sort. Make sure your alligator clips don't touch each other (shortage). The selenoid assy doesn't take much to activate, any 12 V would do just fine. I couldn't see any locking clamp on your pic above. Selenoids are ussually non-polarity sensitive.

Or THIS
http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...ower-HID-units.

[DreaminAccord]

Wow, great info, thank you MSU - that is just what I was looking for :thumbup:

[adamj27]

Also don't mess up the polarity on the solenoid! I know the old FX-R's didn't matter, but I'm not sure of the newer ones. The MH1's can be fried*, so if these are red/black labelled then don't mix it up

edit: sp

[DreaminAccord]

Gotcha! Thanks circa

[DreaminAccord]

I figured out how to ignite my ballasts/bulbs btw - thank you guys for the help. I didn't see any How-to's on it so I just created one in the How-To section for anyone else questioning it :thumbup: