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Thread: How To: Pre-Install Morimoto Mini Tips

  1. #1
    Senior Member HID MASTER StupidPig's Avatar
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    How To: Pre-Install Morimoto Mini Tips

    First, I think most of the mini H1 projector will works great without any high beam stuck problem, but you never know you are one of the unlucky guy until you finished your retro and used your headlight for some time. So, why not take some extra 10-15 mins to prep your mini before putting into your headlight?

    Please read through the entire thread for various tips n tricks associated with using the Mini Morimoto projectors in your retrofit

    Alright, let's start.....

    First you got to unscrew all four screws which holding the front part and the bowl.



    With the latest gen of mini H1, there are a washer and a lock washer for each screw. Make sure you don't lose them.



    There are two small screws holding the solenoid to the cutoff shield. Unscrew them and you should able to move the solenoid so that you can take the solenoid plunger out. (You can leave the solenoid wire looping with the cutoff shield assembly, I just take the whole thing out for taking pictures)



    Now, if you want to be sure it never gets stuck in high beam mode, you could stretch the return spring. Beware this may increase the chances that the solenoid wont be able to pull it into high beam mode in the first place though.



    Take return spring out from the plunger.



    Mount the plunger onto a drill like a drill bit. Get a coarse sandpaper and pushing it onto the plunger, then switch on the drill and sand the plunger a little bit smaller.



    Just sand it down a bit. Then repeat with a fine sand paper so that the surface is smooth, and you should end up with something like this.



    Now you are ready to apply lube on the plunger. What I used is a graphite lube which will works under high temperature. Put the plunger into a big box and fixed it with some tapes, then apply a light coat of graphite lube around the plunger.



    Now you got a plunger with a little bit smaller in diameter and lubed by graphite.



    Put the return spring back to the plunger. The spring should insert from top, so that it won't remove the graphite lube from the plunger surface. The lower groove is the one to hold the spring, not the upper one.



    Now you just need to put everything back together and you are done.

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    Senior Member HID MASTER StupidPig's Avatar
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    But wait...... while you got the solenoid removed from the shield, it is also a good time to fix the glare box caused by the two holes on the shield.

    Before you screw in the solenoid, cut a piece of aluminum flash and drill two holes on it. The shape is not important, just need to be able to cover the two holes on the shield and not blocking the cutoff shield.



    The put it onto the back of the cutoff shield, and using the screws which holding the solenoid to hold it in place.


  3. #3
    Senior Member LORD XENON gearbox's Avatar
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    im sure you can get a spring with more tension too from home depot. i got a whole pack with all sorts of shape and size.

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    Senior Member HID KING richterat83's Avatar
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    purpose of those two little "Glare boxes"??

    Hers-Sloped TL's, ZKW-R lenses, 85122+, E55-R, fiberglass buckets, Blazer fogs with 3K
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    Senior Member HID MASTER StupidPig's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by richterat83 View Post
    purpose of those two little "Glare boxes"??
    I think it just an overlook on the design. The glare is shooting so high that it won't bother anyone, and I don't think there are going to be any road sign as high as tree top. The only thing bother me is when I drive in a tunnel, I can see some dim light boxes on the wall, which I don't feel very happy with them.

  6. #6
    Brightening Up Your Day LORD XENON gold94corolla's Avatar
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    Nice, I like the write up!

    What about adjusting the MH1 for better output? Is that needed anymore? I know that it used to have an off-center hot spot and stuff.

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    Senior Member HID KING JVX.'s Avatar
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    Nice write up Bryant. The Morimoto Mini H1 is a really great projector once you get all these issues resolved.

    @gold94corolla: those other issues are still needed, eg trimming the bulb and centering the shield.

  8. #8
    Senior Member HID MASTER StupidPig's Avatar
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    Actually with the latest gen Mini H1, you are no longer need to trim the bulb, unless you got one with unreasonable big base. I didn't pay attention to the bowing and off center issue, and I will let you guys wait for JVX's picture.

    @JVX, I still waiting for 4 more pairs of bulb, then I can send you all the bulbs, ballasts, and the latest gen Mini H1 for bulb review.

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    Senior Member HID Nut CBRrider's Avatar
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    thanks for the write up, i just got a set of these so better safe than sorry for me..I have a tube of some high temp grease think that will work too?
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  10. #10
    Junior Member HID Newbie puneet555's Avatar
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    hi stupidpig , can you tell me the order of the washers to get the best blue cut off . mine are old gen . eg washers between lens and shield or shield and bowl ?

    is the graphite glue really necessary ? can we just fine trim the plunger and use it .

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