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Thread: high and low HID wiring help

  1. #1
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    high and low HID wiring help

    Today i decided to plug my old HID kit with a new set of bulbs for the high beam But there is something weird going on and i'm not sure how to fix it.

    I have a H4 setup for low/high, and also a separate high beam which uses 9005.

    For the H4, i used two diodes so that my HID will turn on both in high and low . and ofcourse i'm using a relay for this. This is the diagram i used when i did my retro.


    For the 9005 (high beam), since it only has + and -, i simply wired it up as normal with another relay.

    The problem is: Whenever I switch off from high beam to low beam, the low beam seems to have been switched off and on, and it doesn't look good for the bulb. So i'm guessing there's some kind of voltage spike going on or something... how can I fix this?

    Thanks..[/img]

  2. #2
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    maybe i should wired it like this?
    so the low beam will use two relays and the high beam using one


  3. #3
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    umm u should state if you are using a bixenon projector, or one of those funky HID kits with dual bulbs for h4 low beam as well..

  4. #4
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    poohbear, aren't the diode supposed to be placed in parallel between pin 85 and 86 on each relay rather than the way they are placed on the picture?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by kilou
    poohbear, aren't the diode supposed to be placed in parallel between pin 85 and 86 on each relay rather than the way they are placed on the picture?
    forgot to say i'm not using a bi-xenon projector..just a tsx.

    and yes, i'm running two diode which joins low and high beam together to the trigger of the low beam relay.

    I'm thinking there might be a lag when i go from low to high beam or vise versa. So is there anyway that a two relay system will work?

    And can anyone explain how the following diagram actually work? I don't understand how R2 will closed when switched to high beams.... :-k


    Thanks

  6. #6
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    can someone help me with this please.........thank you... ](*,)

  7. #7
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    In H4 systems after switching to high beams there is no power to the low beam wire. However during the transition you pass through the "flash" position where both low and high are on at the same time. This is why this diagram works: when lows are on both R1 and R2 are closed. When you switch to high there is this short moment were both low and high wires have power so that the low keeps both relays closed while current from the high wires is also able to go through R2. Now when the switch to high beam is completed, you only have power in the highs and no more in the lows....but this is not a problem because since R2 was closed during the transition and the highs were able to feed the 30 pin on R2 the highs are now also able to keep R2 closed because pin 87 in connected to pin 85 on R2 (so the current flowing in R2 is the one that keep it closed as well).

    The trick is really to understand that there is a short moment during the transition from low to high where both high and low are on at the same time. Therefore the lows are able to keep R2 closed while allowing highs to go through and keep R2 closed as well once lows go off.

    The only thing I'm not sure about this diagram is the location of the diodes to protect the switch. As far as I understand the diode should be placed parallel to the coil (between pin 85 and 86) because the back current would flow from the coil up to the switch. In the diagram there is no protection between pin 85 and the switch.....

    If I look at a relay witha built-in spike suppression diode, it is placed always between pin 86 and 85 to short these pins when a negative spike occurs.



    The circuit I'm planning to build is this one. It is made for a bixenon setup with halogen high beams. Simply forget the circuits connected to R3.


  8. #8
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    i see how it actually works now. Have you tried using the above diagram?

    I see that you removed the diodes but i thought it was there to prevent backflow from the low beam trigger to the high beam trigger...

    anyhow I will try that diagram and i guess a few extra diodes won't hurt.


    on a side note though, where do you ground your 86 pin (or 85pin)? I read on another post that you shouldn't use the original stock negative as ground, but i don't see the necesity since the currenting going thru pin 85 and 86 will only be the trigger and will hence be minimal current.

  9. #9
    Senior Member HID KING
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    I use the diagram you posted poohbear up a couple of posts and it works just perfect for my low beam s2k and halogen highs. only difference if you had halogen highs and bixenon lows would be to also route power to the solenoid for the high beam, it wouldn't matter if that flicked while the projector was off.

    I build the circuit exactly as its pictured and it worked just fine for my purpose.

    I ran grounds back to the battery as i had the harness installed only as a temporary measure but as long as the ground you're using has got very low resistance back to the battery and is a solid ground point (i.e good contact with bare metal) i can't see any problem grounding to the chassis.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoZZm0_AU
    I use the diagram you posted poohbear up a couple of posts and it works just perfect for my low beam s2k and halogen highs. only difference if you had halogen highs and bixenon lows would be to also route power to the solenoid for the high beam, it wouldn't matter if that flicked while the projector was off.

    I build the circuit exactly as its pictured and it worked just fine for my purpose.

    I ran grounds back to the battery as i had the harness installed only as a temporary measure but as long as the ground you're using has got very low resistance back to the battery and is a solid ground point (i.e good contact with bare metal) i can't see any problem grounding to the chassis.
    Right, i will check the resistence.

    But theoretically speaking, why couldn't I just use the stock -ve socket? i've been using that for a while now.....

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